Center diff lock question on V8 4Runner

[Jaydee914]

Here's some e-locker retrofits:

3rd gen into 4th:
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20784
FJC'S into 4th:
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22213

The first thread makes no mention of ratios. The second says that the FJ 3rd already came with a 3.73 ratio. Interesting.

[Robinhood4x4]

Well that's good to know. I didn't realize 4x4wire is still updating that ancient article. The gear ratio thing would be nice to sort out since paying for a gear install would at least partially negate the cost of an ARB.

[Jaydee914]

Another cost to take into account is install. I read up on an ARB install and it looks waaaaay more complicated than the elocker! Elocker seems like it can be done in a driveway with a grinder and a good drill - modify the housing, drop the donor 3rd in, and you're essentially done (ok, I simplified that, but you get the idea). The ARB involves disassembling and modifying the differential itself and then doing a precision reassembly. That's something that would have to be brought to a differential shop for a few hundred dollar install.
As far as the wiring for the elocker, there's a couple of guys out there offering custom plug and play harnesses for about $150, which makes things really easy.
All that being said now, I'm torn.

ARB:
Negatives: more expensive and needs additional compressor and labor, can't be done in a driveway.
Positives: stronger, faster engagement

elocker:
Negatives: need to regear either the truck or the donor differential? It's ability to handle 35" tires has been questioned.
Positives: Overall cost? Relative ease of install.

[YotaFun]

I know this is so hi-jacked now, but it is confirmed, if I were to take the diff from my 3rd gen and put it into a 4th gen axle it will work (with the obvious modifications)?

If so thats awesome!
My stray me towards a 4th gen in the future if something were to ever happen to the 3rd gen

[Robinhood4x4]

Well, you also need a welder in addition to the grinder and drill.

For the ARB install, you can save some money by removing the third and dropping it off at a diff shop and having them install the ARB with the air line fitting. Then, all you do is bolt up the third to the axle housing and plumb in the the compressor and air lines.

Do the electrical harness yourself. It's pretty easy and can be pieced together for $15-25 (+ cost of toyota harness), depending on how fancy you go. There are good writeups on the web, including 4x4wire. Perhaps Ken will respond with his knowledge as he's one of the original pioneers.

Another con for the ARB is the pneumatics complexity. People always say they work fine as long as the copper tube is installed correctly, but never the less, leaks are a common problem. Having said that, mine has been fine.

I think you'll need to make some calls and find out the cost of an ARB installation and add everything up for both the ARB and the elocker. That'll make your decision for you. As long as you don't have to regear, I think the elocker is going to come out ahead.

Personally, I've never had a problem with either my elocker or ARB.

[04 Rocko Taco]

I've seen elockers in 1st gen 4runners and pickups handle 37 - 40" tires, I wouldnt have any doubt at all about running an elocker on 35's.

[Robinhood4x4]

I was going to say the same thing, but the difference is this isn't a 22re anymore. It seems like most of the V8 swapped guys usually end up going with a dana 60 eventually.

I think it depends on one's driving style. If you're a pedal to the metal type of guy, then you're going to be more likely to blow it up. If you're a finesse driver, then it's probably ok.

[Jaydee914]

I think it depends on one's driving style. If you're a pedal to the metal type of guy, then you're going to be more likely to blow it up. If you're a finesse driver, then it's probably ok.

You're probably right. I'm sure the ARB is a stronger unit, but I bet the stories you hear are people beating on their trucks and blaming the e-locker when things explode.

[04 Rocko Taco]

I've got a welded rear in my '84 and a lockright in the front. If the lockright ever goes, I'll weld the front and leave a hub unlocked all the time, until I really need it.

But its a trailer queen, and wouldn't work on a DD. Although (at least on an older truck) I do not find the welded rear a problem on the street at all, except for the occasional (okay - all the time) tire squeal when turning.

[Crinale]

I think it depends on one's driving style. If you're a pedal to the metal type of guy, then you're going to be more likely to blow it up. If you're a finesse driver, then it's probably ok.

You're probably right. I'm sure the ARB is a stronger unit, but I bet the stories you hear are people beating on their trucks and blaming the e-locker when things explode.

I always take negative reviews like that with a grain of salt.. I would bet that most of the people who blow up toyota diffs are either trying to put way too much power to the ground, or just goin crazy places that'll break anything