Stiff clutch

[slomatt]

Mike,

It sounds like you and I are experiencing the same issue (the stiff clutch, not the farting, that sounds like a personal problem). It is very informative to know that Ken's pedal is noticeably lighter, that gives me hope that I can improve mine.

Here are the culprits I can think of in order of power transfer, not in order of likeliness.

- Bushings in the clutch pedal assembly (pin connecting to the master cylinder, side bushings for the spring, bushings on the pedal pivot bar, bushing where the spring applies force). These are about $20 total so I'll probably just replace them all and add grease. I don't think it's highly likely these are binding enough to cause the problem.

- Replaced factory coil spring with a linear spring. From what I can remember this only made things slightly stiffer, though since the bushing was destroyed perhaps that wasn't a fair comparison. I'm going to push the stock spring back in and use JB weld like Ken did. Or... might try to make a bronze bushing to replace the plastic one.

- Problem with the master or slave cylinder. I don't see any leaks or obvious damage, but I guess a seal could be leaking internally resulting in loss of pressure.

- Air in the clutch fluid. I just flushed mine a few weeks ago and it didn't help, but strangely I kept getting bubbles which I though were just coming through the threads of the bleeder nipple. If there were a leak I would expect to see fluid somewhere.

- Friction between the slave cylinder plunger and the clutch fork. This would squeak, but I can't see how it would make the clutch stuff.

- Lack of grease in the transmission, either on the clutch fork pivot or the throw out bearing. This could be the case, which would suck because you have to drop the trans to repair.

- Problem with the pressure plate. Also requires the transmission to be removed. I read one post where someones clutch got heavy and they later had a failure of the pressure plate. My clutch has 105k miles on it but is not slipping, I'm tempted to drop in a new clutch.

Can anybody think of something I missed?

- Matt

[paddlenbike]

Now I know why my truck stinks.

If I were to do it all over again I would definitely go the bronze bushing route. It sounds like 50,000-60,000 miles is how long that plastic bushing lasts, and I have probably only put 30,000 miles on my truck in the past 3 years since I've done the repair. The link you included above looks just as easy and should last forever.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the spring fingers in the pressure plate were failing, the clutch pedal effort would go down, not up, right? If you put an upgraded clutch in a sports car you have higher pedal effort.

If you suspect the TOB needs lube, you can peel back the rubber of the shift fork (right at the bellhousing and the clutch slave cylinder) and carefully spray white lithium grease. Be sure to tape the red straw nozzle on the grease so it doesn't fly into the bellhousing and stay there.

[garrett]

Matt, did you make any progress on this? I've driven my 5 speed for ~8 years, 100k miles now and the clutch pedal has been as stiff as you describe ever since I got it. I just figured it was by design. I had no idea it could be as easy as Ken's is described.

Fwiw, I removed my torsion spring way back when that original bushing thread was started on YT but didn't replace it with anything. Have never had a problem with the pedal returning all the way. Spring or no spring never felt any different on mine, regardless of spring type.

Also don't think either clutch MC or SC have ever been replaced on mine (~200k miles now...).

[Seanz0rz]

I think a MC and SC replacement might fix your problem. Bob replaced his recently and I seem to remember it helping quite a bit.

http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthre...aster+cylinder

Not sure if it will solve your problem, but at that mileage, it might be worth it.

[slomatt]

Garrett,

I put the torsion spring back into the clutch pedal along with new bushings, but the clutch is still very stiff. My guess is that either the clutch fork needs lubrication or the MC/SC need replacement. Both are somewhat expensive repairs and I don't need a clutch yet so I'm holding off for now.

- Matt

[paddlenbike]

Was the clutch fork pitted from running a bad bushing? Mine was terrible. If the fork is in good shape, you have the torsion spring reinstalled and it's all lubed, I would follow Bob's advice and do the Aisin MS/SC at the same time. They are $56 and $26, respectively, on Amazon.

[slomatt]

The clutch fork was badly pitted, but I installed a brass bushing so it wasn't a real problem. The brass doesn't deform like the plastic bushing does and it keeps the pivot point in the same place. I replaced the rest of the bushings at the same time.

I think I'm going to go ahead and buy the MC/SC and see if that helps. Also, I read on a Taco board that an improperly adjusted clutch pedal might increase the required effort, so that is something to look into as well.

- Matt

[garrett]

excuse the ignorance, but are yall talking about the fork connected to the clutch pedal (the part that plunges through the firewall into the MC)? or the fork inside the clutch housing that the SC pushes to disengage the clutch? i thought you could only inspect that part if you drop the trans...

[slomatt]

We were talking about the clutch fork inside the transmission, the part that moves the throwout bearing. Interestingly some people have had issues with the pivot punching through the fork, which is a common problem with diesel Land Rovers since they have a stamped steel fork.

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193199

- Matt

[paddlenbike]

Ew, that's ugly. Reminds me of the Chevy 350s when the pushrod pushes right through the lifter.