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Thread: uh-oh...ripped a hole in my floor

  1. #21
    Thanks for the input.

    I spent several hours this afternoon getting quotes from various body shops. The cheapest I found was $75 to weld in a washer over the hole. The cheapest proper fix was 100 for labor, plus the price of the part. That's if I take the trim and carpet out myself. The price includes some rust preventive paint, but not color matching. If I do the color matching, it's an additional $100. I think this is the route I'm going to go, just without the matching paint. Should be about $150 or so total. The shop that quoted this price to me seemed to be the most knowledgeable, and they had excellent ratings on yelp and google.

    The highest quote was $352, which included everything...removal of carpet and trim, new part welded in, and color matched paint. Another shop didn't want anything to do with it.

    Anyway, I'll try to get this fixed some time next week.
    -Daniel2000 4Runner Sport | V6 | 5spd | 4x4 | Leather | 265/75-16 BFG AT/KO | OBA | BudBuilt front skid

    1990 4Runner SR5 | V6 | Auto | 2wd | 3.90 rear | Cobra CB | 265/65r17 Bridgestone Duelers H/Ts | '08 Tacoma 5 spoke rims | Has an 11:1 crawl ratio! SOLD

  2. #22
    Id do the fix ken suggested and not worry about the color matching. You could always go online or to a local parts store that does paint and have a rattle can made up if it bothers you.
    Marc<br />96&#39; T100 SR5 4x4<br /><br />Other rides:<br />00 Honda 416EX

  3. #23
    Dan, what did you end up doing?

    Chalk one up for another Imperial Jade Mica 3rd gen. I make it a point not to post pictures of my holes on the internet but we're like family here.



    I've owned my 4runner since the last week in 2007. It came from a few hours away and before that was a few hours the other way, all in CA. As far as rust goes on my 4Runner I have none. None of body panels, none of the frame, axle housings etc. I crawl all over looking for it and the very little I've found is on the surface and is taken care of.

    This is rusted from the inside out. I don't know how moisture gets in there but it took out the baby tack welds that held in the nut. I'm not sure how I'm going to go about this. Part of me thinks 3 out of 4 will do the job. Another part of me wants to repair it but there are several ways. Maybe weld in a thick patch, measure 14 times, make one hole and tap it. Welding in a patch with a nut on the back side might be a little more work. Or just enlarge the hole, mine doesn't look as hollowed out as Dan's, and weld in a nut.

    The factory piece isn't in there all that well and even then it's welded to thin metal so it doesn't have to be bomber. Everyday there seems to be something new, blah.
    Last edited by 4x4mike; 08-27-2015 at 08:12 AM.

  4. #24
    Color matching is of no importance here because it's under the carpet. It will get sprayed with whatever is closest.

    It appears the original hole had 3 small holes around it. I can't tell if these holes are reliefs in case of an accident or for welding in the nut. I've seen a few cars that were in bad accidents where the driver was trapped by the steering column/dash. Sometimes it's easier to cut the seat, or break it from the base to move the victim backwards to get them out. This could be part of a breakaway system. If that is the case I may just tack a nut in from the back side.

    I'll dig around at the local Ace. I've had good luck with the non coated square washers and welding. Now only if they have them in metric. Or maybe I'll just use some thick plate I have, tack it in and tap the hole?

  5. #25
    Strange. The first time I had ever heard of this was about six weeks ago. Then a few days later I saw Dan's post, now this one. The strange thing is it has been all Imperial Jade Mica trucks, by coincidence I'm sure. I will have to check my holes too...er, or whatever you want to call it.

  6. #26
    Like I'll be saying from now on, "check your hole before it's too late."

  7. #27
    I think it is due to the bolt being loose, then pushed up and down, fatigueing the metal. Mike, you had rust, Dan's did not. I'll have to check my evergreen pearl metallic for problems. My drivers seat has been in and out a dozen or more times, never noticed anything.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  8. #28
    This


    wouldn't take long to do and is a permanent fix.

  9. #29
    I haven't done much about it yet...lol. I ordered a new floor piece ($50), and I found a local body shop that will remove and weld in the new piece for $100, if I take out the trim and carpet.

    The next week is going to be busy for me, but hopefully I can fix it after that.

    Sorry to see you've got the same problems Mike, but I'm glad I'm not the only one.
    -Daniel2000 4Runner Sport | V6 | 5spd | 4x4 | Leather | 265/75-16 BFG AT/KO | OBA | BudBuilt front skid

    1990 4Runner SR5 | V6 | Auto | 2wd | 3.90 rear | Cobra CB | 265/65r17 Bridgestone Duelers H/Ts | '08 Tacoma 5 spoke rims | Has an 11:1 crawl ratio! SOLD

  10. #30
    I think that area gets exposed to moisture from water and snow on shoes coming into the footwell.

    Mike, you and Dan both have 5spds, I wonder if it is something to do with the constant pushing of the clutch with your left leg, lifting the front of the seat up and causing fatigue?
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

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