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Thread: Subaru 2.5L Starting Problems

  1. #1

    Subaru 2.5L Starting Problems

    So... about 2 weeks ago the baby mama left her dome light on in her 02 Subi Impreza Outback Sport, and didn't realize it until 2 days later when she went to grocery shop. The car wouldn't click or turn over. I figured a combination of the slow draw of the dome light coupled with our -30F temperatures, done the battery in more than normal. So, when I came to pick the kids up, I hooked up the jumper cables to her car. The immediate juice from my battery triggered her alarm. So, I was optimistic at this point it really was just a dead battery.

    But it still wouldn't start. It would click, and even turned over, but wouldn't start. So, I went and bought a new battery. Once I installed the new battery the car clicked, but started up on its own. I attributed the clicking, but eventual startup, due to a non-super-right positive battery cable. It didn't seem to tighten all the way.. I could move the cable on the post, but not so loose that I could easily work it off the post (have since got it tightened down all the way).

    Now, fast forward to yesterday, she was going to come over here so we could make Christmas cookies with our girls, but her car was dead. I drove over and jumped it off with no issue. She drove it the roughly 8 miles to my house with no issue with light dimming or such, so I was ruling the alternator out at this point. Once she arrived she turned off the car and before getting out of the car she tried to start it again... nothing. No clicking, no turning over.

    I tried to jump start it this time... but still nothing. No clicking, not turning over.

    What gives guys? Starter solenoid is starting to sound like a possible culprit, but honestly I don't even know where the starter is on her car. I've read some people recommend giving it a good tap with a ballpen and trying again... saying sometimes the solenoid gets stuck. :|

  2. #2
    starter is on driver's side top of the trans.

    to remove:
    disconnect battery ground
    remove air cleaner and "stay" (guessing that is the air cleaner box bracket)
    if it's a turbo model, you will have to remove the intercooler.

    remove connectors from starter,
    remove starter, bolts are 37 ftlb torque.

    also, I know autozone will test your starting and charging system for free, I imagine other places do it as well. I think you're right to suspect the starter, that would be my next item to fight with.
    Last edited by Seanz0rz; 12-22-2013 at 11:50 AM.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    starter is on driver's side top of the trans.

    to remove:
    disconnect battery ground
    remove air cleaner and "stay" (guessing that is the air cleaner box bracket)
    if it's a turbo model, you will have to remove the intercooler.
    Good deal... no turbo so one less thing in the way.

  4. #4
    Doesn't SOUND bad, but as we well know, something like "remove starter" is never really just removing starter. First, the wrench slips, and you smash your knuckles on the frame. Then you figure out it would be much easier if you could remove the exhaust down pipe, so you go to town on that, and end up rounding off or breaking 2 or 3 bolts. 6 auto parts stores later, you end up with most of what you need to fix the now broken exhaust, but still haven't gotten the starter off.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    Doesn't SOUND bad, but as we well know, something like "remove starter" is never really just removing starter. First, the wrench slips, and you smash your knuckles on the frame. Then you figure out it would be much easier if you could remove the exhaust down pipe, so you go to town on that, and end up rounding off or breaking 2 or 3 bolts. 6 auto parts stores later, you end up with most of what you need to fix the now broken exhaust, but still haven't gotten the starter off.
    STOP! lol I already knew that was the way it is, but wanted to pretend otherwise.

    Guy on a Subi forum recommended checking the negative cables, and provided these pics of his:

    Quote Originally Posted by cardoc View Post
    This should sum it up. This caused a 250 amp loss between the battery and block on a 2.5 Outback.

    Last edited by fenrisx; 12-22-2013 at 01:53 PM.

  6. #6
    Looks like a good place to start, especially with your corrosion prone location.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    Looks like a good place to start, especially with your corrosion prone location.
    I'm glad it's not my truck having this problem... but at least it's more fun to work on my 4Runner than the Impreza. :\


    *face palm*
    So.. when I installed the new battery I knew the positive cable wasn't secured tightly onto the post..my socket wasn't deep enough to get it as tight as needed and the only other thing on me at the time was a small 4" pair of Channellock pliers... which didn't give me the grasp I needed. However the ground cable seemed to be secure. Then yesterday when I went to jump it off again I made sure to bring my tools and tightened the positive up securely, but thinking the ground was fine I didn't check it.

    Well.. double checked the the ground cable would move some on the post... and then it fired right up. I tried to tighten it but it just would not snug up completely on the post. I'm going to buy terminal ends tomorrow probably to replace them.
    Last edited by fenrisx; 12-22-2013 at 03:54 PM.

  8. #8
    Buy the heavy duty replacements that you can bolt the wires to at least. Dont buy the cheapy sheetmetal terminal. If anything Id go to an car audio store and get some of the very nice terminals they sell.

    One thing I have learned over the years is to always check to see if you can wiggle the connections. Cant tell you how many times I have just tightened down a terminal or wiggled a wire and it started. or how many cars I yanked the cable right off effortlessly b/c it was tight.
    Marc<br />96&#39; T100 SR5 4x4<br /><br />Other rides:<br />00 Honda 416EX

  9. #9
    If it's the starter or wires to the starter, they are super easy to get to especially if it's NA. Right where Sean said it was. Do check the cables though as they are small even compared to our 4Runners.

  10. #10
    You haven't mentioned a volt meter this entire time. Any idea what voltage things are at. You asked several questions that would be answered by checking. That's something I'd check before I went digging for jumper cables.

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