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Thread: fitting 15" steel rims on a 16" brake

  1. #21
    Thanks! It will probably be a long time until I get around to looking into it.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by troyboy162 View Post
    I'm auto so I have been putting off the duals for as long as I can. How long has your buddy been running that tire wheel combo? I'd sure like to run that set up some day. I priced out a set with the fancy pvc inserts once....but abandoned it when I figured out the weight. I think fitting them wouldnt be too horrible.
    3 years now,
    He started with the 37" military MTR but the sidewalls were just too weak, he cut that 10 min into the trails...
    Then he went with a worn pair of 37" pitbulls and they did fine.
    We just mounted a new set of 36" Super Swampper TSL Bias Ply, these are going to be his lightest set up, but honestly don't know how they will fair on the IFS since we started to remove it the same weekend lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    I think they are just too heavy for our vehicles. I guess you could move down a brake size, but I wouldn't recommend that either.
    You think so Sean? Honestly when we were bolting the tires back on the axle they felt lighter then my 33s on 16" alloy wheels.

    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    What's the plan for the 16's you bought from me? I'm looking around at alloys again, I think I've had it with my steel wheels. I'm still trying to track down that vibration.
    OT what makes you think its the rim? have they ever been bent out of place before? Also Are you still Running the same tires the you had when I saw you when I visited Cali? I know your truck doesn't sit as much as mine but have you considered yet a possible flat spot or shifted belt?

  3. #23
    Edited whole post. Just another link showing a similar amount of material removed from a stock 4runner brake and some comparisons to a tundra casting
    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...15-wheels.html

    Stock 4runner calipers modded (Not mine):




    13wl tundra

    13wm 4runner
    Last edited by troyboy162; 05-21-2014 at 07:23 PM.

  4. #24
    More pics from a 97 4runner with 16 calipers. I get nervous every so often and go find more pics lol. Again...I'm safe
    http://www.yotatech.com/f200/1997-4r.../#post51684631






    Last edited by troyboy162; 06-11-2014 at 11:58 PM.

  5. #25
    The procomp 98's never happened since the place I got my beadlocks from gave me a full refund minus shipping costs. Thats pretty damn nice and I'll keep them in mind in the future. I'm eyeballing wheelers 15" rims now. They are about $10 more per rim then procomp, but they have a few design features that should let them fit easier. They already fit a tacoma where most 15" require spacers or grinding to fit. The most desirable backspacing they have is only 4" though so that means the inner bead area will slid a 1/4" further onto the caliper...Going to have to think that over a bit.

    In this picture you can see both the lack of flair on the spoke holes and the very shallow taper from the inner bead to the middle of the rim. I'll email them soon with specs of the procomp rim for comparison.
    these are the 15x8 with 4.5" BS
    Wheeler wheels.jpg
    Last edited by troyboy162; 07-20-2014 at 03:50 AM.

  6. #26
    ugh lol I am going to end up taking the caliper apart and seeing how much meat there is in the casting.I will take a bunch of pics to document it. Also the 4" of the Wheelers rims backspacing probably wont be enough once I run the wider MTR tires on there extra tall sidewalls. The good news is that brings me to the cheap procomps again that I already know I can make work.

  7. #27
    Guessing wheel spacers are out of the running?
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  8. #28
    Id like to get rid of spacers on the front. The 35" MTR tires will need about .5 inches of spacer on a stock wheel just to clear the spindle arm. .75-1" of spacer would be ideal due to carcase flex (15" variety will have even more flex then I am used to). The good news is the procomp steel rims with their 3.75" back spacing put me right where I need to be. I already know I can shave the caliper to fit those as well since I've done it on one side. Wheelers rims with .25 ghetto spacers would be about the same, but I wouldn't have to shave the spokes at all.

    So the choices are:
    -Procomp 51 that I know I can fit and should give me exactly the right clearance on the spindle.
    -Procomp 98 that should fit and might possibly need less work on the spokes
    -Wheelers that I know I can fit even easier as long as I use a .25 ghetto spacer and extended thread lug nuts
    - or lastly wheelers with no spacer that will be more meat ground off the caliper (possibly not a big deal), but also possibly a bit close to the spindle arm with the wide MTR tires.

    I am ordering more procomp type 51 rims because I dont want to try a type 98 and find I cant fit them for some unknown reason. In reality the type 98 should be the same if not a little easier due to the spoke construction, but I'm done with the guessing lol. I am also going to disassemble one caliper to make sure the internal passages have not been compromised. there is a o-ring in there that will hopefully be ok to resuse. There is no re-build kit for our calipers that I can find. I was going to wing it on pictures alone and then I thought about loosing brakes in some of the stupid situations I put my truck in lol.

    I will try to document this as best as I can since I assume I will find evidence that the calipers are more then safe after the grind. I hope that will be a big help to some other idiot like me who shaves their calipers for cheaper tires lol.

  9. #29
    ok I took the caliper apart today and as a side note autozone can special order a rebuid kit for $9. The kit does not have the rubber orings that go between the castings though and thats the only thing I really wanted lol.

    These images are kinda hard to see. I stuck a spray bottle tube into the passages so you can see what direction they go. unfortunately off all the tubes I could find, the only clean one was see though lol. The diagonal passages dive down fast into the casting to meet the pistons. the horizontal passage where the bleed valve is also in a picture. There is lots of meat in the areas that were grinded. More then enough to be safe. The area where the spokes hit is only about 8mm thick after the grind. this is thinner then I expected, but still more then enough.

    So the experiment is a success. The calipers are intact and structurally sound. The only negative is mass was removed from the only thing the brake relies upon for cooling. The negative effect would be hard to imagine being even measurable in a under powered poor handling truck. Its not like I dive this thing into corners like a sports car or something.

    This hole seen in the middle of the piston cavity is drilled at an angle to meet a twin hole drilled down in the other cavity. This means that no grinding should be done on the corresponding outside of this area. Its likely to be be pretty thin already even without grinding.


    The light scoring marks in the paint represent measurements of the piston cavity. This is the best I could do to take an educated guess at 8mm thick right here. I think it was a good idea I ground the spokes of the wheel too so I didnt have to take even more from this area.


    Kind of a bad angles but you can see how these passages dive down into the caliper fast and away from the surface.



    just an overshots so you can see how close the passage is to the outside. The black cirles around the passages are rubber seals.




    best angle showing how fast the diagonal passages dive down


    the one horizontal passage coming from the bleed port. The threads of the blead port are large in diameter then the fluid passage but the threaded area carries no preasure.

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