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Thread: Rear Disc Conversion Question

  1. #41
    Sounds good, I finally got the right connector so I will solder that up when I have some free time.

    The belt looks like it will work. Count on using some 0.030", 0.020", or so shim stock to get the pulleys in the correct line. It takes more effort to shim it, but it is easier than getting the bracket dead on. You can also use a standoff too long and grind it down to be perfect. You may want to investigate lowering the idler a tiny bit to get more wrap on the AC pulley. AC belts have a tendency to squeal, especially when exposed to dust.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  2. #42
    I know this rear disc conversion thread has turned into your OBA thread but I thought I'd add a few more pictures. These pictures are of the 210 I had on my 1990 full size Chevy truck with a 350 and are 10 years old now. I used part of the same style bracket that Sean has. I cut it up except for the side that had the compressor mounting holes. At the time I was living somewhere else than where my tools plus I didn't have welder.

    I purchased a Kilby combo pulley


    Here you can see the cut bracket. I elongated the mounting holes in the bracket to allow the compressor to move up and down on it as a way of tensioning the belt.


    Again, no welder which meant pieces were bent, holes drilled and bolted together. I was 18 when I put this together and didn't know what I was doing so there was some trial and error. It always worked but in the beginning I'd have to upsize bolts or bracket supports to larger ones due to cracking.


    A York system is very easy as well as forgiving. My current setup on the 4Runner has the pulleys around 1/8" if not a bit more out of plane with no problems. I've never had a belt slip on either setup nor squealing. For you I'd find a place in the engine compartment where the compressor fits. If possible I'd leave all the stock components where they are and work around them. Modify the bracket you arm wrestled Sean for and find a way to bolt it in. Without an idler pulley for the York you free up some space so try to design something along those lines. Once it's bolted in, use a piece of string or rope to measure for a belt then head over to Napa or the like to find the proper belt that works within your bracket. Them plumb it up and you're good to go.

  3. #43
    I opened the thread up to it when I showed a picture of the york and honestly it seems as though all of you guys run one lol. I am very glad for the tech being discussed on any of my ideas no matter how crazy. When I get the chance I really need to write a tech article or two as I know I am not the only one with a 2.7 but there is very little out there documented.

    I honestly think when I do this bit of my build I might remove the radiator and support so I can get a clean shot at the front end of the engine. I have thought about it and decided on the serpentine clutch route for 65 bucks after I do the rebuild kit (from somewhere besides kilby) and if I can move the tensioner to between the compressors I will. If not I will hook it up and see if it runs.

    It's time for bed lol. I have 5 miles to run tomorrow with a bunch of guys 10 years younger than me.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  4. #44
    So there's good news for now at least. Wife let me get all of the tools I lacked to do the mustang caliper rebuilds. I tried with that I had but I firmly believe in the right tool for the job is very very true. I have been needing an expanded set of snap ring pliers and a pick set anyway.

    What I am hesitant about buying(simply because of the amount of use they will get) are the flaring tool and the 3/16 tube bending pliers. They are more than 20 apiece and I do believe that this will be the only time I will use them. It's not like I muck around with brakes all the time. The hobby shop might have them but some of the more specialty tools have been used by those who used more brawn than brains.

    I also started sleeving my led lights and re-writing the truck. 0ga is done but I have yet to find another hole in the firewall for the aux box bundle. If I could get a drill to bear than I might just drill another hole. Any suggestions? The goal is to separate the custom wiring from the factory.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  5. #45
    I know a lot of people will hate, but honestly check with Auto Zone, or some other parts outfit out there about tool rental. I know my store here has some flare wrenches as part of thier rental inventory.

    Also every single time you say hobby shop, I picture a bunch of dudes sitting around working on model airplanes and shit.
    -Chris
    2004 DoubleCab Tacoma PreRunner: 3.4 V6-Auto, DD/Tow Rig
    1997 Lexus LX450: 4.5 I6-Auto, DD
    1984 4Runner: 22R-5 speed, 14 inch bob, 5.29's, lincoln locked rear, lockright front, Armored and Caged by Mossyrocks Fabrication, total disregard for body damage.
    1997 4Runner: GONE
    1996 FZJ80 Land Cruiser: GONE

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by 04 Rocko Taco View Post
    I know a lot of people will hate, but honestly check with Auto Zone, or some other parts outfit out there about tool rental. I know my store here has some flare wrenches as part of thier rental inventory.

    Also every single time you say hobby shop, I picture a bunch of dudes sitting around working on model airplanes and shit.
    Now that I think of it you're right. The military calls some stuff wierd names sometimes. The Auto Hobby Shop is one of the best MWR(morale welfare, and recreation) programs if you ask me. Besides having many many specialty tools they have 12 4 post lifts, 2 2 post lifts, 4 short lifts, mig, tig, oxy acetelene, haz mat disposal, paint booth, diagnostics, smog, tire machies, flywheel/brake resurfacers, and a handful of good mechanics to help if you get stuck. Hell of a better way to spend beer money than getting drunk imo lol.

    It's not free but for about 40 bucks a day you have access to all that. I will check into the tool rental idea though. It would help if I could depend on the tool working correctly lol.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  7. #47
    Well I suffered a small defeat the other day as I was able to break down the calipers but unable to re-assemble them. The snap ring was just impossible to insert so I got a pair of reman calipers for 100 bucks. Not too shabby but I really was shooting for saving that cash for something else.

    Additional pressure is coming from an unexpected vacation in October to Granby CO. Not sure if I can get this all put together, tested, and reliable by that time. I think it's possible but the rear axle will have to go together with no hiccups.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  8. #48
    Well here's a blast from the past. The desert heat has been broken and that means it's time to paint calipers lol. I gotta do it quick before it gets too cold. I pulled everything out of the boxes they've been sitting in and hopefully tomorrow they look a little nicer. I don't consider this a necessary mod but it's something I wanted to do.



    I set it all up tonight so I can get up early at 0530 or so and get the paint done before I lose my window of opportunity. Good news along other fronts as well considering I will be moving to a new(well new to me at least) place later in October. So more room for the expanding family and I am also pretty sure I will get that two car garage as well. That's not for sure but I am fairly certain I am right.

    I still have a lot to acquire for this project and I've gotta say it's definitely the most expensive one I have undertaken on the 4runner. I still need the front rotors, pads all around, and the specialty brake parts. All the calipers have been either acquired by luck or by cash. I am also certain I will be paying a pretty penny for the brackets and the welding since I do not trust my skills to pull it off. Hopefully I can finish everything by early next year or that's what I'm shooting for at least.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  9. #49
    And here's the results. Still waiting to apply the decals on the tundra brakes as this paint is finicky and hides blemishes till you get the caliper in full sunlight. I've done two full coats and two touchups and I am satisfied with how everything came out. In an hour or so I will go back and check everything one final time and then lay the decals down.







    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  10. #50
    and the final pic before they get put away till I have the rest of the parts ready.

    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

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