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Thread: Factory paint matching

  1. #1

    Factory paint matching

    So I mucked up part of my bumper on a trip recently and have been slowly trying to get it back to a before state.



    I ordered a replacement factory 'end cap' in unpainted form. I couldn't find any non-chrome versions locally so I decided to buy new. I figured this was a good way to go anyway because the part would be straight and I wouldn't have to strip any paint.

    I found paintscratch.com and ordered up a kit that had pre mixed factory paint in a can. For $43 I got the material I needed which is cheaper than having it sprayed at a body shop.

    I need to do a little more research but thought I'd ask some questions in case anyone has some painting experience. My color is a metallic and while it's not likely for me to match the metallic portion I plan to get close. I've sprayed two light base coats and while the metallic looks okay the surface texture is a little rough. Not so much the metallic part, at least I think, but more of the paint texture. It seems I've never had this experience with say an off the shelf Rustoleum metallic. Maybe that's the way it's supposed to be and the clear is the shiny part I'm waiting for. 95% of my painting on the 4Runner is semi gloss black from a can and looks don't matter.

    The website mentions wet sanding which I've done and am fine with but the instructions seem to be for paint that may not be metallic. If I wet sand am I just going to wipe out the sparkle? I was trying to get smooth coverage along with consistent flake but I'm afraid it will muck it up. The paint finish also seems to be very matte. I purchased the clear coat for the custom paint and plan to spray that once I feel the color is correct. I'm hoping the clear coat will shine it up enough to match the factory finish.

    Seeing that the part is hanging in my warm/hot attic with a couple light coats, how long should I wait until I wet sand? Ken said he waited 5 days when he sprayed his wheels. Any precautions for wet sanding a metallic paint? I only bought one can of paint so I can't sand, paint, sand too many times before running out. I'm hoping on a light sand then happy ending.

  2. #2
    Wet sanding will muck it up. If you have to sand to correct drip you're going to have to spray again. If it's orange peel then spray it with clear. You can wetsand clearcoat.

    The clearcoat should also correct the matte look to a nice shine.


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    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
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  3. #3
    Thanks. I haven't called the company yet but the finish on the piece does look like the wet sanding will effect the metallic. I don't have any drip just somewhat of a not smooth finish. I'll take a close look tonight under some bright light and make the decision. I might also do a small test area on the bottom to see what it does.

    I do imagine the clear will add the shine. I just don't have much experience with clear. Well not much of a positive experience. The clear did come with 2 different nozzles so maybe that will help.

  4. #4
    In the past, I've wet sanded metallics but only in prep for a final coat before clear. I'd bury it in quite a bit of clear if you can, then wet sand then one more coat of clear, then buff it all out, if you're after a shiney bumper.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    In the past, I've wet sanded metallics but only in prep for a final coat before clear. I'd bury it in quite a bit of clear if you can, then wet sand then one more coat of clear, then buff it all out, if you're after a shiney bumper.
    My experience with the wheels was wet-sanding did make the surface look matte and it took away the brilliance of the metallic sparkle. But I think the idea is to use that wet sanding to get all of your previous layers of paint smooth, then you follow up with one final coat of base/metallic that you don't sand. Then you end up with a surface that is both smooth and still retains the shine. The clear coat will obviously accentuate that.

    But throw everything I just said out the window if the instructions say otherwise. Different products have different requirements, and the experience I just described was with Duplicolor primer (a step you didn't need to do), Duplicolor Wheel coating, then Duplicolor clear coat.

  6. #6
    I just did a fender using spraypaint, its not prefert but VERY close. What I did was since I have a metallic color I sprayed the metallic and then cleared it (again spraypaint) about 6x. My only complaint was the spray method I used created a slightly off look I guess you could call it-you can see it was spraypaint if you look closely.

    Anyways I cleared it then I started wet sanding a week later to make sure the stupid spraypaint was dry. Started at 600, then moved to 800, then 1000 and finally 2000. Then I buffed it using heavy and then rubbing compounds and then finally waxed it.

    For spraypaint its a damn close match and only off slightly in the shade of the color. Conversely the patch I had to do to my rocker panel in front of the rear tire turned out better. It was a hole I had to cut out of rust about 3x3" and the area already has a rough finish. I didnt go nearly as nuts doing it as the fender b/c you dont see it really as much (sure doesnt stand out like a fender). All that got was a coat of red primer, sanded with 800 then 1000, paint, sanded down again and then clear and then sanded and buffed. My friend honestly thought I paid to have it done.

    Prep and application is key in painting, getting it to match is tough. Also using a real spray gun works better than a can of course BUT you gotta have a dryer, then another dryer at the gun and the hose better be new cause if it has anything it it you will be sorry.

    Oh one more thing, if your gonna wetsand Im not sure how others do it. But an old school painter told me he used warm water and a bucket of water and dawn dish soap and ill be damned it worked great for me.
    Marc<br />96&#39; T100 SR5 4x4<br /><br />Other rides:<br />00 Honda 416EX

  7. #7
    Thanks for the input guys. I plan to take a look at it tomorrow and go from there. I'm thinking a wet sand, final paint then let it sit in the warm dry attic for the weekend. Next week I'll try the clear. CJM, I know what you mean from what you described. I've painted a few bicycles with cans and HPLV guns and have differing experiences. I've got driers/filters but painting is such a PITA.

    I only need this to be as shiny/good as the rest of the bumper. Lucky for me it's dark, low to the ground and has many different angles.

  8. #8
    Forgot to add, that part of the bumper is plastic right? Id use adhesion promoter as well clean everything with prepall or mineral spirits.
    Marc<br />96&#39; T100 SR5 4x4<br /><br />Other rides:<br />00 Honda 416EX

  9. #9
    Nope...I definitely put a dent in mine before I did the monstaliner. It's metal.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  10. #10
    Ah metal makes it damn easier to paint then. Plastic sucks b/c paint dont wanna adhere or flex unless you use the right paint.
    Marc<br />96&#39; T100 SR5 4x4<br /><br />Other rides:<br />00 Honda 416EX

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