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Thread: Hybrid Roof Rack (sorry 4x4mike)

  1. #121
    CRAPPY WEATHER I SHAKE MY FIST AT YOU!

    Seriously of all the days to turn cold and rain it had to be the day I was primering.....grrrr

    I made progress anyway and here it is. Trying to get all the little slag balls off was frustrating to say the least because it's like that gopher game. Just as you think it's over....there's more annoying little critters to bop on the head.



    I decided that I wanted to add a few more tie downs since I plan on putting led lights on the front and rear. I brought the total to 26 lol.


    Welding Finite. I am done and done.



    Self etching primer after putting some of that Marine Clean stuff on and scrubbing to get all the oil off. Worked pretty well.


    The rusty metal primer is some of the toughest primer I have found for metal imo. I happened to have a can floating around so I tossed it on after I ran out of self-etching. All I have to have is some primer on the metal for the chassis saver paint to work.

    That's all that's left. Well that and mounting everything up. I am waiting on the leds and wiring till a later date when I can determine what my needs are versus my wants. I need to get this rig out on the trail instead of working on it all the time lol.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  2. #122
    Wow, those are some big nails.

    I find I get more slag and spatter on acute joints and areas around pieces like the nails. Bummer part is that they are harder to remove than if they were on spots like butt joints. I know running MIG would take care of a lot of this for my case, along with better technique. Before I go to town with a grinder I hit the spots I can with a slag hammer/chipper. Sharpen the end and it will knock off most of the spatter. I then prefer a small Roloc disc as it's abrasive enough to remove and smooth without taking off too much metal. If it still needs more I use a sanding disc on the grinder.

    Since you have a trip coming up just run the rack and actually use it. Afterwards you'll know what more you need and how well your setup works.

  3. #123
    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4mike View Post
    Wow, those are some big nails.

    I find I get more slag and spatter on acute joints and areas around pieces like the nails. Bummer part is that they are harder to remove than if they were on spots like butt joints. I know running MIG would take care of a lot of this for my case, along with better technique. Before I go to town with a grinder I hit the spots I can with a slag hammer/chipper. Sharpen the end and it will knock off most of the spatter. I then prefer a small Roloc disc as it's abrasive enough to remove and smooth without taking off too much metal. If it still needs more I use a sanding disc on the grinder.

    Since you have a trip coming up just run the rack and actually use it. Afterwards you'll know what more you need and how well your setup works.
    Mig would definitely help but honestly I'm fine with running flux. It is more cleanup but I'm not renting a tank either which is kinda pricy. I have gotten better with technique but what really helps imo is making very good precise cuts. If it dry fits well it will bead easily. Gaps are where I start having a less than smooth bead. Personally I do the "c" method for corners and butt welds. I stich for verticals and circle seems to work for overhead but I tent to shy away from overhead if I can. I need to burn hot on overhead and slag just doesn't feel good on the skin.

    I suppose I could just mount it and go. I hadn't really thought about that. It's dry enough I wouldn't have to worry about rusting. I will probably just top coat it black today and worry about good paint later.

    I tried to get the same nails as you did ha ha. These were .10 apiece at home depot. I had to burn them in on at the 4 setting (125 amps?) with the hobart. They are definitely on there for good.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  4. #124
    Welders at work use medium quality putty knives that have a full tang. They scrape and hammer on the back of them to remove the spatter. Works really well actually.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  5. #125
    While MIG would help I'm in the same boat as you. To make it most cost effective I'd have to go with a big tank and I don't really have the room to store one that big for how little it would actually be used. I've grown to be fine with the flux especially since I'm just doing hobby type welding.

    If you spend a lot of time and effort rushing a paint job and find you have work to do it's that much harder. Little areas for tabs and such aren't bad but if you find you've got some flex or vibration you need to brace you'll be stripping a lot of paint. The thicker you put it on the worse it looks covered up.

    I like the spray and brush on Rustoleum Hammer stuff, the name escapes me. It's super thick so it lasts plus it goes on everything. I think the only two things I've used primer on for the 4Runner, since I've had it, are my bumper and my axle housing. If I think I need a base layer for whatever reason I use $1 Walmart black and then top with hammer. My sliders get a work out and I've got years of layered paint. When I get in the rock it chips of and leaves a divot from the missing paint. A light sanding then brushed on hammer and it's back in business.

  6. #126
    Nice work. I can already see that I will be the only guy on UY that has no cool, custom-made roof rack. Where is the darn :headbang: emoticon when I need it?

  7. #127
    Quote Originally Posted by paddlenbike View Post
    Nice work. I can already see that I will be the only guy on UY that has no cool, custom-made roof rack. Where is the darn :headbang: emoticon when I need it?
    Appreciate it! It's been quite an experience and my only remaining question is whether to do expanded metal or not. The holes in the rack are kinda big lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4mike View Post
    While MIG would help I'm in the same boat as you. To make it most cost effective I'd have to go with a big tank and I don't really have the room to store one that big for how little it would actually be used. I've grown to be fine with the flux especially since I'm just doing hobby type welding.

    If you spend a lot of time and effort rushing a paint job and find you have work to do it's that much harder. Little areas for tabs and such aren't bad but if you find you've got some flex or vibration you need to brace you'll be stripping a lot of paint. The thicker you put it on the worse it looks covered up.

    I like the spray and brush on Rustoleum Hammer stuff, the name escapes me. It's super thick so it lasts plus it goes on everything. I think the only two things I've used primer on for the 4Runner, since I've had it, are my bumper and my axle housing. If I think I need a base layer for whatever reason I use $1 Walmart black and then top with hammer. My sliders get a work out and I've got years of layered paint. When I get in the rock it chips of and leaves a divot from the missing paint. A light sanding then brushed on hammer and it's back in business.
    I will look into the hammer stuff but just so it doesn't look like trash I have a can of plain black rustoleum I will lay on top.
    Sliders are probably going to happen at some point this year but right now I'm not doing wheeling where I know I would need them. I am adding 906 springs to the rear for this next trip. Mine are shot.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  8. #128
    I couldn't leave it primed so I went with flat black. I will try to get everything bolted down tonight.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  9. #129
    Looks great! Want to come help me with mine?
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  10. #130
    Sure I'm down. We can work out a weekend if you like. I will say my roof reinforcement plus the feet on my roof rack didn't line up quite as perfectly as I would have liked......but they all went in without serious binding do I'm happy.







    The paint job is atrocious lol. It looks like I taught my daughter how to spray paint and let her at it.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

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