Seanz0rz's Roll and Rebuild

[Seanz0rz]

That's the goal I think. Keep it light, anything is better than what was there, which is NOTHING! The bubble wrap stuff is pretty cheap (I already have some I can use) and I can attach it with some Super 77 or the like.

[Kryptoroxx]

Just wanted to toss my opinions on the sound deadening and monstaliner with regards to weight and hang a few suggestions out there.

Sound deadening is pretty much what it sounds like. It lowers the resonant frequency of whatever surface your adhere it to thus making it sound more solid. A couple of products come to mind that are reasonable for what you have in mind. First is what I have experience in which is Alpha Damp. SecondskinAudio.com is the source and while it is similarly priced to Dynamat and other such items the stuff is 40mm thick rubber with a double foil thickness outer shell. I used it on my Scion XB when the road noise with 19" rims and low profile tires was too much. I ended up solving everything by going to 17" rims and a 55 sidewall but the Alphadamp solidified everything very well. It killed a lot of road noise without adding a ton of weight. IIRC you only need to cover 10% of a flat panel to effectively reduce the resonant frequency to a reasonable level for audio applications. For what you're talking about I would recommend 25% to reduce more vibration from tires and the like.

The other sound deadener that comes to mind is Lizard skin. Never used it but I've heard good things about it. Seems to be a beefed up undercoating used for sound deadening applications. A little cheaper than Alpha Damp but more prep work is involved since it's a spray application.

I silenced my xb with about 15lbs of product and I would be willing to bet that I added less than 30lbs when I did the Monstaliner. What everyone seems to think about is weight but the fact of the matter is that without adding mass you are not solving the problem. So if you did both of the products I suggested we could say that 60lbs of weight would be added to the total weight of your vehicle. That's less than any of the armor you have...except maybe the sliders or the roof rack. I think that's pretty good for getting a quieter ride for an offroad rig.

Remember we don't have to go fast because we can drive wherever the hell we want

[Seanz0rz]

I appreciate the input and I completely agree.

I am not going crazy with this. I am looking for basic insulation for sound and heat. I know my 4Runner will never be S-Class quiet, especially with aggressive tires. Just looking for some low cost insulation that is minimally invasive, easy to install, cheap, and did I mention cheap? I am not worried about weight (to a degree) and I recognize that 30 pounds will make no difference. I otherwise would not be adding insulation at this point, but since I have the interior out (especially the headliner), it seems like a good time to add something.

[Kryptoroxx]

I guess the Lizard Skin didn't live up to it's name so they replaced it with this stuff and I would say it's probably what you're looking for as far as cheap, easy, and effective. In fact it might be more effective than you think. I would give this Spectrum Sludge a go for the interior since it is stripped. For a gallon of the stuff you should be able to do the whole bottom floor and up on the walls. For the ceiling area I recommend the AlphaDamp stuff or you can use the Damplifier sold by SecondSkinAudio. These guys' prices used to be a lot better but now that they have picked up a good reputation you see supply and demand in effect.

Just use a roller for the ceiling when you do the tiles. It will improve the effectiveness a LOT and speed things up a bit. I would apply that sludge stuff with a putty knife and thicken it up around the wheel wells and on the firewall. That would reduce a lot of noise for you.

Is it cheap? For what you are doing I think it's a good deal. However if you wait sometimes they have sales. I picked up my tiles on black friday or cyber monday for 76 bucks on the 20sq. ft. I think the total was 90 with shipping. I imagine that you would save a lot o cash if you at least waited to see what happens. My personal choice would be to spend a bit more and then NEVER have to touch it again lol. Removing interior panels isn't something you can do over and over again without breaking stuff.

http://store.secondskinaudio.com/spe...udge-1-gallon/

http://alphadamp.com/

Also for what it's worth I was under the 4runner today applying rubber undercoating with a brush. I really hated life so for the love of the hair on your arms spray your undercoating lol.

[Seanz0rz]

Update time!!!

Patch panel will be done next week, but I'm not ready for it quite yet.

Tried to work on the roof more this morning, but realized I really need a stud gun to proceed. Ordered one and went to tearing the front end and engine apart. Body work will have to wait until next weekend.

I didn't get many pictures of the process, it was VERY messy. Easily the most disgusting thing I have had to do on the truck.

There was easily over a quart of oil in my intake tube that poured out when I pulled it off.




Driver's headlight housing. Broken. But then again, it was before too.



More parts gone from the front end:



This is as far as I plan on going. There is a good amount of oil in the intake from here up. What little bit is left will just have to stay.


Nekkid!



The air box is full of sand and oil:



The snorkel tube had about 4-6 cups worth of sand in it.


Goal tomorrow is to get everything cleaned up and reassembled after I pull the plugs out. Give her a crank or 2 and let it expel as much oil from the cylinders as possible. I will have to drop the skids and do an oil change. It will give me a pretty good idea how much oil leaked out up top, but I already know it was ALOT!!! I am not exactly sure what path it took either. The PCV tube didn't look too bad, but it might have had enough time to drip down and settle away from the hose.

Since I have everything apart for cleaning, it is a perfect opportunity to do the rewire of the front end I have been wanting to do.

I didn't find any nasty surprises on the core support or inner fenders. There were a couple of unexpected bent areas, especially the left headlight area, but nothing a hammer can't fix. Cleaned up the hood as best I could. It is going to require much more than simple green and a paper towel though. Cleaning up the puddles of oil and sand reminded me of the garage scene from Pulp Fiction.

Feels good to work on it, wish I had more time after work before it gets dark to work on it during the week. Once I get past the body work, the rest should be something I could do in the dark.

[Seanz0rz]

Also, a $$$ update. So far I have spent less than $500 on the fenders, door, and other parts plus tools and supplies I have purchased up to this point.

Paint items will be around 500-600. I will be spending a bit of money to upgrade the electrical up front and throughout. I am also looking at replacing the passenger area carpet, which should be under 200.

A new windshield will run about 200, and I will have to find a new headliner. This should do it on replacement parts to get it back roadworthy. The headlight and corner lights that are broken will be glued back together, or I might take Bob up on his offer and weld them.

If I make it out under $2k with a few upgrades and improvements, I think I did pretty well!

[4x4mike]

Oh man, I don't envy you. FWIW you've done half that labor involved to install a supercharger...

[Seanz0rz]

I was thinking the same thing. I sadly don't have the money to buy one right now. I was also thinking about doing the timing belt since I have so much of the engine pulled apart, but again, I don't even have money for that. The good thing is I can spread some of the cost of this over the next few months since I get so little done each week!

[paddlenbike]

Looks like a messy clean up. I'd probably be looking to remove those engine parts and borrow someone's pressure washer. Cleaning sand out of those ribs in the airbox by hand would be extremely time consuming.

It's nice you'll get some upgrades out of this as well. Not to mention whatever you do for paintwork will look better than the peeling clearcoat you had before.

Nice work Sean.

[Seanz0rz]

I have a pressure washer. Problem for me is where does the oily sand go?

My plan is to get a couple of rubbermaid bins, fill them full of hot water and Dawn soap, let the parts soak in the sun for the week, and scrub them each day. Then I can filter the oil and sand out of the water when I dump it out. I will try to knock out as much sand before hand and put it in the trash.