Rear hatch won't open

[4x4mike]

If it's not one thing it's another. My locks work and when all the doors are shut the open door indicator isn't on. I feel this is good as it would bug the heck out of me and I think the door wouldn't be locked. It also makes me think the connection from the latch and the "latcher" is not connected.

I washed the 4Runner on Sunday and the hatch opened and closed as normal, nothing out of the ordinary. Same with the window, opens and closes fine. The latch moves but really easy like it's not catching or something.

I think the latch is connected to the mechanism by a cable, right? Maybe the cable broke? My fantastic new cargo shelf appears to be right in the way of working on anything from the inside so that will have to be removed.

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this? I've been in the rear hatch in the past and it's kind of a PITA. The window makes it difficult, so does having to work with the hatch open and upside down. I've searched briefly and it seems like the 4th gens have this problem a lot and it has to do with syncing the power locks. Disconnecting the battery is also a way to get it open...somehow.

The plan is to monkey with the door switches. Some sort of combo of pushing and holding can re-sync them. Same with rolling up and down the rear window. I also need to see if I can unlock the door with the key and try that.

[Seanz0rz]

Yes by cable. Try the key in the door window cylinder. This locks and unlocks the door.

[4x4mike]

I've been a little busy lately but last weekend I made a run to the grocery store and like normal unlocked the 4Runner with the fob and opened the back hatch. As I was closing it I thought, SofaB, it opened. Cool, it fixed itself.

Two days later for giggles and whatnot I tried it again and no dice. The rear window would go up and down with the key but the key in the cylinder would not unlock and open the door. The cylinder felt normal (but no unlocking feel or noise) but the the hatch wasn't opening. The latch would move as if the door was locked. At that time I unlocked the doors with the switch at the drivers door it opened.

Now tonight with the key fob the door would unlock and open. The plan is to hope it opens next time so I can get in there and pop off the plastic panel. By the time I have to work on this the hatch won't open and having the panel ready to come off will be nice.

[troyboy162]

Mine will have issues every so often. I just cycle the electric locks a few times back and forth. Also about half of the surfs over seas can only open the hatch by pushing in on the handle as you squeeze it. Quite a bit of force is needed.

[4x4mike]

Thanks. I'm thinking what mine needs is some maintenance. Once I get some time on my hands I'll peel into it. Thing is while I'm in there I also need to fix my rear defroster which hasn't worked for 3 or 4 years. I also need to peel the side panel off to wire a power port for the shelf LED's.

Last time I was in the hatch I took pictures so I'd have a record of what it looks like, etc. Seems like maintenance and fixes are documented for the 3rd gen and folks have also posted pictures. I found these pictures online with a Google image search.




Other than working upside down it looks like everything is easy to access, clean, bang on and fix. (Knock on wood).

[Seanz0rz]

Top tip: clean out the cargo area, sit down and close the door down (but don't latch it).

[slimscherer]

In regards to your rear defroster, there's a connection between disconnecting your battery, and your rear defrost needing to be reset on the 4th gens. Might be different on yours. After replacing my battery last year, my rear defrost, heated side mirrors, and dash switch all quit working. The fix was a complete cycle of rolling the rear window down and then up...everything worked again after that.


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