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Thread: School me on suspension, 98 4Runner

  1. #21
    From McMaster:

    1 2 packs 91290A234 Black-Oxide Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw, Fully Threaded, Alloy Steel, M12 Thread, 60 mm Long Monday morning $2.48 pack 4.96
    2 2 each 4483T441 High-Strength Ball Joint Rod End, M12 x 1.75 RH Female Thread, 12mm Ball ID, 24mm Long Thread Monday morning $18.66 each 37.32
    3 1 each 1078N14 Class 10.9 Steel Fully Threaded Rod, M12 Thread, 1.75mm Pitch, 1 Meter Long Monday morning $11.71 each 11.71
    4 1 pack 90685A110 Class 10 Steel Hex Nut, M12x1.75 Thread Size, 19mm Wide, 10mm High, packs of 25 Monday morning $9.52 pack 9.52
    5 1 pack 98026A032 Grade 8 Steel Flat Washer, Oversized, Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated, 7/16" Screw Size, packs of 25 Monday morning $6.19 pack 6.19

    Merchandise total
    $69.70

    Not a horrible price for all of that, I suspect about 85 or 90 with shipping/tax.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  2. #22
    Hey thanks for the part numbers!! I think the land cruiser shocks could work perhaps. I only have 2" in the rear....I love the Tokico ride though even though the shocks are too short for the spring.

    I looked up some part numbers recently for the studless diff mod as many call it. Nobody seemed to make something for the elocker though so I have sourced my own part numbers to halt this slow leak I have.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  3. #23
    I have all the parts to replace all of my studs with new ones, but that's a lot of work to stop a small leak.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    I have all the parts to replace all of my studs with new ones, but that's a lot of work to stop a small leak.
    Yeah it is but I will feel better about it when it's fixed. First i have to get some 6t jack stands.

    I will also likely never have to touch it again. It's about 30 bucks in parts and I will have enough bolts to do it again if need be.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  5. #25
    have you tracked down the weird wobble?

    My third leaks too, but Id guess its just a few drops per use of the truck. So far its low on the priority list of fixes

  6. #26
    The front end feels loose, but all the bolts are tight. I went after it with a flashlight and a mirror looking for cracks and found none. New bushings are here just waiting on all pro arms.

    For the rear I think the main culprit is the shocks. Also picked up new bushings. I might start that tonight if I feel up to it.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  7. #27
    Rear bushings are in. I drove it with new bushings in 3 of the 4 links and it felt so much better, but problem not solved.

    The rear bushings where shot! The left UCA looked OK. The Right UCA had one torn bushing, I believe on the frame side:


    Those pressed out pretty easily. To press the new ones in, I greased up the bushing really well, then pressed it in. It worked out OK. Uppers took me i think 4 hours total, including messing around looking for tools and figuring out how to do it right.

    The lowers were a bit more difficult. First, don't try to remove the nut. The nuts have 4 protrusions on the flange side that lock into the mounting bracket. Loosen by the bolt only!

    I hear there are at least two different styles of LCA bushings. Up to mid 97, they were just rubber bushings like the upper arms. After that, they are captive bushings like the front control arms. I had purchased the bushings for the "early" so I needed to get rid of the entire captive bushing.

    My lowers had significant degradation of the frame side bushings. I could wiggle them in my hand. The axle side was a tiny bit better.

    The inner sleeve pressed out very easily:


    I then took a hack saw and cut through the outer sleeve, then pressed them out. I cut where the tube is welded to the outer most sleeve, so even if I cut into the arm itself, it would not fail there.

    Bushings were pressed in with the tabs pointing to the shaft of the arm, again, with lots of grease:


    Not much in the way of pictures. Each rear arm took me 3-4 hours to do, and were really a pain in the ass having to cut out the sleeves. If you have the proper press adapters, you may have more luck just pressing out. Mine were REALLY in there.


    I am waiting for cushion retainers for the rear shocks, then I start on the front end.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  8. #28
    Oh man, I had no idea they were that hard to do. Now I know I'll ignore mine until they start rattling around.

    Actually from the outside mine look fine and I remember taking a look at them when I did my rear axle swap but that was years ago now. A press is something on my want list.

  9. #29
    Wow!! I guess the good news is you have more than likely found your problem. Too bad it's a pita to fix.

    My buddy has been trying to talk me into making adjustable upper and lower arms with creeper joints but I am hesitant to pull the trigger to make such an important piece at home. Plus I highly doubt that the joints would last any longer than the bushings.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  10. #30
    I can say for sure the joints won't last as long. BUT, they are easily rebuildable.

    I tracked down the bushings for the panhard bar from sonoran steel. I believe that's the last of it!
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

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