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Thread: LBJs and front end maintenance time

  1. #11
    The 39016 PN you have for the uppers comes with the joint, nut, clip, grease, boot, boot tie, etc. Look at the diagram on the link listed for that pn.

    Same story for the lower BJ. It should come with the nut already.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  2. #12
    I think I am going to pass on the upper ball joints and brake lines. The front end still feels tight and I'm only at 134k, I mainly want the piece of mind of new LBJs since those are a safety item.

    43340-39465 - LOWER BALL JOINT 4-Runner; Left - $87.71
    43330-39585 - LOWER BALL JOINT 4-Runner; Right - $87.71
    43346-60011 - Lower ball joint dust cover (newer design) $15ea (thanks for the tip on this one!!)
    90080-10066 - Lower ball joint bolts x8 - (and this too!)

    45047-39215 - Outer tie rod Left - $47.70
    45046-39335 - Outer tie rod Right - $47.70

    I am thinking I will order the above parts and once everything is disassembled I should be able to check the inner TRE and feel for slop. If it feels questionable I will go ahead and order new inners, rack boot, clamps and rack bushings.

    My part numbers seem to mesh with yours as well as in the BJ thread (lol) here.

    I found a decent video on TRE replacements here.

    Anything else?

  3. #13
    I replaced the same parts when I did my LBJs last year. The project is pretty easy, the hardest part is separating the two tapered joints. I used the ball joint separator and one of the "C" clamps from an OTC front end kit.

    http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front...ront+end+tools

    You can also separate the joints by hitting both sides of the joint with hammers so that the vibration knocks the taper loose. Regardless of if you use this method or a tool, make sure you keep the castle nut loosely threaded on so the joint doesn't fly apart.

    When removing the OTRE from the ITRE either mark the threads or count the number of revolutions required to remove the OTRE. This way you can put it back in roughly the same place so your toe is close, and then you'll need an alignment.

    It's a good idea to put blue locktite on the LBJ bolts and to re-torque them to spec after a couple days.

    - Matt
    2000 4Runner Sport / 4x4 / 5spd / E-locker / SS 1.2 / 265x75x16 Bighorns / ARB Prado / HD-SKO

  4. #14
    I use this one from autozone. Its perfect for the LBJ, but a little annoying for the OTR although it will work. I dont know if it can do UBJ's though.
    http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...er/555623_0_0/



    Also the 4 bolts that hold the LBJ on are recommended to be replaced since they supposedly stretch a bit when torqued. Thousands have been reused with no issues, but I think they are only about $6 total per side so I replaced mine this go around.
    Last edited by troyboy162; 05-07-2015 at 12:31 AM.

  5. #15
    I use a similar harbor freight one, but can report that it DOES NOT work on the upper joint. I will be doing the uppers on Saturday if it is raining this evening when I get home.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  6. #16
    Thanks for the tips guys. I have a ball joint separator but see this as a good excuse to buy a pickle fork just in case.

    I feel like I haven't wrenched on a car forever; I was doing it almost daily when I had two Volvos. In July I will have had the 4Runner for ten years. Time flies...


  7. #17
    I'm going to guess you won't need any pullers. Especially since you're replacing the TRE's. For the LBJ's, cut the cotter pin, loosen the castle nut half way and give it a whack. Mine took one hit with minimal effort and it separated, both sides. I'd avoid a pickle fork. For me they are a last ditch effort after heat and penetrating oil. Most of the time they end up getting stuck anyways.

    The way the knuckle is shaped you'd be better off using the correct puller, free on loan from a part store, rather than a pickle fork. The knuckle is pretty small and you'd likely bottom it out before it frees. The area is clearanced for articulation and leaves room for a puller.

  8. #18
    I second Mike's recommendation to avoid pickle forks, every time I've used one it's been a pain and has damaged the boot. I like to keep my old parts as trail spares just in case.

    - Matt
    2000 4Runner Sport / 4x4 / 5spd / E-locker / SS 1.2 / 265x75x16 Bighorns / ARB Prado / HD-SKO

  9. #19
    This is my go to for a pickle fork.

    http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-41500-Fo.../dp/B0002SRG4S

    It's for an air hammer and gives you much more control.

  10. #20
    I have that set. I'm not a fan of pickel forks but will be using mine tomorrow.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

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