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Thread: Ladder and tire carrier

  1. #71
    Ok so I've done a bit of work on the rear shelf.



    And I have a question about my method of construction for the ladder.

    So I made a few bends with spare metal and found that I couldn't get a consistent bend. On top of that the more I looked at the area the more ways I thought of to strengthen it.

    But first is it OK for me to cut and weld the angle that I need? I figure it would be strong enough if I use 1/8". I can also weld a bead on the inside without making the weld too fat for the gap I think. I've got about 1/2" gap where I want the bracket to be.

    The other reason for the cut and weld is so I can drill and utilize the hinge bolts as some extra insurance that the metal will stay exactly where I want it. I think the fold in such a metal would be good enough to hold weight but side to side motion would be the issue.

    The bottom bracket will be made of thinner stuff but all it is really doing is holding the ladder to the door.

    Another solution to this problem would be attaching the ladder to the top rack, utilizing some hinges and attaching a bracket to the bottom of the door with a second hinge and set of slide bars to account for the different circumference of motion. Not sure how I would figure out the distance but that would be a very sturdy ladder.



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  2. #72
    I'd love to have an insightful comment, but my brain is cooked.

    To cut and fold, sure you should be fine. If you are really worried, you can always add a fish plate on the sides to spread the load out a bit through the tube.

    Adding a hinge/slider mechanism is going to be WAY more trouble than it's worth. Don't do it!
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  3. #73
    Quote Originally Posted by Kryptoroxx View Post



    But first is it OK for me to cut and weld the angle that I need? I figure it would be strong enough if I use 1/8". I can also weld a bead on the inside without making the weld too fat for the gap I think. I've got about 1/2" gap where I want the bracket to be.

    The other reason for the cut and weld is so I can drill and utilize the hinge bolts as some extra insurance that the metal will stay exactly where I want it. I think the fold in such a metal would be good enough to hold weight but side to side motion would be the issue.
    I think my brain is cooked too. I'm having trouble visualizing the above but if Sean says it's okay it will probably work. Is there much out there on existing 3rd gen ladders? I know I've seen a few but never really know if they get much use.

  4. #74
    Is the tube for the ladder round or square? My advise applies to square tube. You might be able to make it work on round tube if you get creative.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  5. #75
    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    I'd love to have an insightful comment, but my brain is cooked.

    To cut and fold, sure you should be fine. If you are really worried, you can always add a fish plate on the sides to spread the load out a bit through the tube.

    Adding a hinge/slider mechanism is going to be WAY more trouble than it's worth. Don't do it!
    I knew the sliding mech would be a pita. It would be super cool...but way harder than the bracketry for the swingout.

    I'm going to be cutting all the way through and then welding it back up. There isn't a good way to mock things up to drill and cut while it's a flat piece of metal so I am going to work with the bottom piece and then weld the angle to reach the outside. I hope that makes sense.
    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4mike View Post
    I think my brain is cooked too. I'm having trouble visualizing the above but if Sean says it's okay it will probably work. Is there much out there on existing 3rd gen ladders? I know I've seen a few but never really know if they get much use.
    Nada on ladders. I see the way gobi worked it and I'm making mine better simply by using the hinge bolts to keep everything in one place.

    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    Is the tube for the ladder round or square? My advise applies to square tube. You might be able to make it work on round tube if you get creative.
    I already have the ladder laid out and ready to weld!! My fingers have been itching horribly to do it but I want to make sure I get the top plate laid out first so I can work angles and such. Trying really hard to make it look like I know what I'm doing

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  6. #76
    Ok a little bit of progress or a lot depending on how you look at it.















    I am almost finished with the primary holding bracket. There will be a lip on the rest of it just to assist with the load but I think that will hold fine given it has the strongest part of the door assisting.

    Hard parts coming up are bending the steel to curve with the door and getting it all to fit very snugly. It's slow and tedious but fun too.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  7. #77
    Weld up those over cut lines on your notch, else it will crack there.

    Looking good! Looking forward to see further progress.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  8. #78
    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    Weld up those over cut lines on your notch, else it will crack there.

    Looking good! Looking forward to see further progress.

    I will definitely do that. There is going to be a fair amount of stress on this piece. I would love to make these from 3/16 but the cut and fold would end up being as thin as 1/8 so all in all there wouldn't be a strength increase.

    The only thing is that it is a total pain to install this bracket. I have to unbolt one side of the hatch and those struts aren't for the weak minded. Whew!

    Hopefully I get a little time tomorrow but if not Saturday I'm going to push and try to finish both projects.

    In other news I might be removing the limited cladding. Honestly I think the risk of rust is way more dangerous back east than looking cool with plastic fenders lol. If the right price is tossed out its gonna happen and I will weld up all the holes from the backside and grind them smooth before getting a single gallon of Monstaliner and tinting it to the anthracite.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  9. #79
    It's not much for progress but a little headway has been made. I had an emergency project of a desk for my wife. I have the frame done so all that is left is the desktop surround, shelf, and support for the desk. Easy day.

    On to the pics! They don't show a lot because I don't have enough hands to hold it to the truck and take pics.

    Solution to a small issue. I wanted some more weld on the steps and I wanted them to stick out a little more. So I cut half in and half down. It also gives me the option of welding the ends shut.


    Just a shot of what I did for the wife's desk. It bolts in the center


    This is the top bracket piece for the outside. It's bent to contour the truck on the bottom and then make it level so I have a platform to weld to.



    Just showing how much bend is in the piece.


    My big issue right now is attaching the upper and inner bracket together while ensuring it fits over the door. I haven't proven it won't work but it remains in the back of my mind.

    In other news I can't get a steering rack before I move so I bought some napa itr and I ordered the steering rack guide pieces. My rack doesn't leak at all so I'm curious if it isn't just the guide.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  10. #80
    you hafta post some wheeling pics next. Your mod/wheeling ratio is way out of wack : )

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