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Thread: New lower bj design

  1. #1

    New lower bj design

    Did you guys see this? Looks like it has some serious potential to me but I know this is a huge gamble too.

    http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=160426
    Looking for old LBJ
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  2. #2
    My response copied from T4R

    This is an interesting thread and I'd like to chime in and formally apologize for the Hi-jack, the work here is awesome and look forward to see more!
    I like the idea of changing the design of the lower ball joint to something different.
    Everyone can argue that the OE style is junk and aftermarket are even worse, I should know, at 229K I have already gone through at least 3 sets.

    However and exposed uni ball joint might not be the greatest solution.
    Just hear me out on this.

    First set of LBJ's were replaced at 160K (120k w/no lift, 40K w/lift) and the failure was abnormal to what everyone else usually experiences, the cap on the joint actually came off and the joint pushed itself into the CV.
    From there I have used aftermarket replacements, the second set lasting till around 40K, the 3rd set again aftermarket brought me another 20k before getting play in them, now on my 4th aftermarket set with no issues, but looking to go OEM.

    Not done though, after my first initial lift I went from standard upper control arms to Uni-ball upper control arms. Living in the north east, and in the rust belt makes this a fun purchase, in that I find that I change out upper joints at least every 20K, I am already on my 3rd set of uniballs, while I did get the arms used, I was told that they had 30k on them and they just started to get play, then after that it seemed to follow a 20k interval.

    Now considering that the upper ball joint is not a load bearing joint, this kinda sucks but its the environment, not change the position and add load, I would look to most likely cut that track record in 1/2, thats changing out joints a lot, an at $54 a unit w/o shipping that is a lot of $$$ I just would like to use else where.

    Now going back to the ball joints, I understand it is not the best design, but if they are OEM, they still last quiet a good bit, on a stock rig can last well over 100k.
    However, I feel they should be a normal maintenance item like many other items on the 3rd gen.

    I feel if you stick with OEM joints and your stock, you should go ahead and replace the lower joints every 100k weather they are good or not, and if you have just lifted I would replace them while doing your lift and then proceed with an interval of every 75k.

    As far as the lower ball joint being a limiting factor:


    I haven't had a problem yet with stuffing that tire into the wheel well.
    With just adding the OEM Ball joint at a routine maintenance a certain mileage interval you avoid having to deal with a failure.
    Think of it as doing your plugs every 30K miles, they have a wear limit, and while if you exceed that mileage you don't instantly throw a misfire it is inevitable.

    Again sorry for the hi-jack and keep up the good work, I look forward to see the progress and test results of the joints!

  3. #3
    I was interested in hearing your side on this since you were a yota techie Yota. I think it's an awesome idea but I am not sure about the rust and salt and other bs we have to deal with in the north.

    It could be a really cool joint though for offroading.

    I do have a set of old lbj sitting in a box for this lol.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

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