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Thread: Rear 3rd Member Studs Replaced with Button Head Bolts?

  1. #11
    Perhaps a thread sealant could be used on these bolts??
    Adam

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Dawa View Post
    I just received a '98 pearl dark blue 5sp runner, haven't done allot of off roading;

    So, do the stock "wheel studs" become ripped out if the hub's when you threaten to pull the wheels off by wheeling, this is the fix that y'all are talking about?

    Thanks
    Newb


    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    Welcome, Dawa. These guys are discussing differential studs, not wheel studs.
    Adam

  3. #13
    Aha, thanks!

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by malteserunner View Post
    Perhaps a thread sealant could be used on these bolts??
    That is the real problem here. The factory studs have a thread sealant on them. When I removed the diff to do an elocker swap, I removed the studs and did not properly seal them when I reassembled. It has been leaking ever since (2007?).

    Dawa,

    I have yet to see a complete failure of wheel studs on these vehicles. If you are missing some, or feel they may have been damaged, it is pretty cheap preventative maintainence. Otherwise, it is not necessary.

    The lower ball joint and 4 bolts connecting it to the steering knuckle, those fail all the time and should probably be inspected and replaced, especially the bolts, as they are very often over torqued.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  5. #15
    Hmm...must be user error. My elocker diff studs are bone dry after 10+ years! Now where's that flipoff icon...
    -------------------------
    Steve
    1993 4runner, SAS, 3.0L, Auto Tranny
    2007 4runner, stock. For now.

  6. #16
    100% user error!
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    I ordered these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#91352a158/=16vwyvy

    I also have new long studs for the elocker, though I might end up welding up the holes and redrilling, trying to get those straighter than I did when I did it the first time.
    Lol I remember seeing pictures of those I think.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dawa View Post
    I just received a '98 pearl dark blue 5sp runner, haven't done allot of off roading;

    So, do the stock "wheel studs" become ripped out if the hub's when you threaten to pull the wheels off by wheeling, this is the fix that y'all are talking about?

    Thanks
    Newb


    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    No we are talking about the 3rd member. It's the pumpkin in the middle. It doesn't pull out but over time it will tend to seep a little oil unless the seal is perfect.

    Many things break before wheel studs thank goodness.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  8. #18
    http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthre...ht=diff+torque

    3 years later and I run into this problem again. Going for 30 ftlbs this time.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Seanz0rz View Post
    http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthre...ht=diff+torque

    3 years later and I run into this problem again. Going for 30 ftlbs this time.
    I remember this conversation too lol!
    Hopefully works out.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Kryptoroxx View Post
    I also tried to use the same system for the longer bolts but there's no way to get them to thread from the backside sadly.
    Looks like McMaster has threaded rod.
    I have alway had issues with the longer studs staying in or stripping out.
    MAybe with something here we could thread a rod through and then a nut and lock washer on the back side with some thread locker give us another option?

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