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Thread: Roof Basket Version 2

  1. #1

    Roof Basket Version 2

    Version 1 was designed to fit inside of my Yakima roof rack and bike trays. It worked great and over time it was modified to fit my uses. I had lengthened the basket, added threaded holes for gas cans and my Tred Pros as well as my lighted whip. The rack was pretty much built out of surplus material and I really liked it. One thing I didn't like was grinding off paint to make modifications so the thought of starting over kept coming up.



    After Sean built the roof rack for his 3rd gen I was really wanting to build another basket but couldn't really decide what I wanted much different from what I had. I like the look of full length but with a sunroof and DD duties I didn't want to battle wind noise and a possible drop in fuel mileage. I didn't have plans for lights up top so I talked myself out of the hassle of working around the sunroof and go for another 'basket'.

    After some sketches and trips to metal suppliers I had a build list but just couldn't get started. Part of it was available time but the other part was the idea that some parts of this project could be daunting and I didn't want to rush. I contacted Jonathan Kucyj (some may know him from other forums) from Infidel Garage about building me a base to start on. He's somewhat local and builds a nice full length rack for a decent price. In short time he built me up what I needed, pretty much what I had but with better feet, wider and lighter.

    I don't seem to have any pictures of the bare rack as received but it's pretty much square and extends outward from the factory tracks about three inches on each side whereas Version 1 was narrower than the factory tracks. I no longer have to wedge this between bike trays and the extra width gives me more storage area and will make it easier to mount my awning. Here is a screenshot from an email where the rack is mounted on Jonathan's 4Runner.



    Starting with a base saved me a lot of time as I didn't have to hassle with bending tube or make four feet that matched. If the task was to build four feet that were slightly different from each other I'm the guy but I've already been down that road. One addition I wanted to make to Version 2 was removable crossbars. This would allow me to mount my Yakima products and haul items like wood easier than with the Version 1 rack. Making the bars removable would increase the versatility which is what I was after.

    In the making of my hitch mounted bike rack I learned that the OD of 1" EMT was close enough to be made to work with Yakima products. It's also thick enough to be welded without too much hassle so I picked up a couple of sticks. Jonathan has removable crossbars as an option on his racks but they mount to the upper hoop of the rack of which I don't have. I used his design but rotated the mounting position 90 degrees and they turned out pretty nice but were a lot of work.

    The first step was to figure out where the crossbars would be located. Location was key for compatibility with accessories as well as cross members on the rack. I made four mounting plates and welded nuts on the back of them. The idea was that the nuts would be sunk into the tube and the plate welded in place. One of the unforeseen challenges was drilling the holes in the tube. The rack is too large to stick in the drill press and hollowing out eight large holes in the side of a cylinder is harder than it looks. Also, I dare you to walk barefoot in my garage. I'm going to have to get the kids tetanus shots before summer.



    Progression:




    Last edited by 4x4mike; 04-24-2017 at 10:22 AM.

  2. #2
    After getting the plates tacked on I was able to complete the crossbars. They turned out pretty nice and work really well. Their first test was a trip to Tahoe holding onto our skis and thankfully everything went well and they don't make any noise. I also added some weld on tie down loops around the edge of the hoop instead of using large nails like Version 1. Since this picture I have capped and filled the ends of the crossbars. I was going to use them as storage. For what I have no idea, so I moved on.





    Here you can see I'm missing the tapered end caps to my factory rails. I need to find some replacements and get rid of the duct tape covering the hole.



    Other additions have been the Tred Pro mounts from Version 1 and plates to hold bicycle fork mounts and the mount for my Rotopax. I typically hold bicycles in my hitch rack but there are only two mounts back there and I'd have to bungee the kids bikes between the two adult bikes. Now I have to option to solidly mount four bikes on top which will be nice to free up the receiver for my trailer or hitch basket.






  3. #3
    I've had the rack for a few months now and it's been working great. My awning is due soon so I'll need to make a bracket but I don't think that will be too hard. It's going to mount on the crossbar plates and I'll be able to run the crossbars and awning at the same time if I want. An item I kind of over looked was the placement of my NMO antenna mounts. As you can see the forward mount is covered by the rack so I had to trim out some expanded steel. So far the tiny whip protruding hasn't been a problem but I plan on using the rearward mount as my primary from now on. The secondary mount is for my CB or APRS and isn't used as much. Once I make the swap I'll leave it covered with the NMO cap and it all rests below the rack so all is good.

    When I had the base made I left some room between the front of the rack and the sunroof. This space was to accommodate over hang but also leave room for a wind deflector if I needed one. So far I don't need one but might whip up something just to take up the room. It would be strictly cosmetic so it's back burnered for now but stay tuned for an update.

  4. #4
    Man, how do you not have wind noise but I do?! Mine has way less "stuff" going on up there.

    Anyway, nice rack.

    To drill those holes I think I would have ground a small flat in to the tube, then drilled a pilot hole at the flat. Then use a hole saw to make it bigger.
    -------------------------
    Steve
    1993 4runner, SAS, 3.0L, Auto Tranny
    2007 4runner, stock. For now.

  5. #5
    When I did my rack, I found that the aero was not common sense stuff. Painter's tape was my friend at chasing down the noises.

    Looks great! Now I want to build one for my 4Runner. I have it half way done!
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  6. #6
    That rack looks great! Very well made and the additions are definitely well thought out.

    I think each of us has had regrets on builds or design that has been revealed over time.

    Personally I wish mine was 4ft wide. I carry plywood and stuff and if I am not very careful how I tie it down I can tear up the plywood.....not to mention if I had more fragile things loaded.

    That looks like a great development though. Bravo!

    I agree with Sean. Aero has nothing to do with common sense. For instance I have zero wind noise.....but I'm not sure about the mpg effect for my rack. I'm sure it's negative though
    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Kryptoroxx; 04-26-2017 at 08:11 AM.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  7. #7
    The more I think about it, the more I think the expanded metal helps with noise. Wind noise comes from vortex shedding, which is when the flow of air goes around an object and forms vortices which separate from the body. The alternating low pressure zones are what cause the noise.

    I think the expanded metal either trips the boundary layer of the flow, thus creating turbulent flow and preventing vortex formation, or the expanded metal itself just flat out gets in the way of the vortex and won't let it form.

    Doing a quick google search, I tripped across a thesis on this very subject! "Reducing the noise generated by car roof racks"

    Not that you guys care, because it's pretty esoteric stuff, but here's the pdf.
    https://ir.canterbury.ac.nz/bitstrea...pdf?sequence=1
    -------------------------
    Steve
    1993 4runner, SAS, 3.0L, Auto Tranny
    2007 4runner, stock. For now.

  8. #8
    I'm going to need a few minutes alone with that paper...


    I've always avoided the expanded mesh due to the weight, but maybe it is worthwhile.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  9. #9
    Very interesting read Steve. I only skimmed it but I will look through it some more when I have some time. I think you're right about the expanded steel and vortex shedding. Yakima made a little part called the Wind Jammer which does just this. https://www.amazon.com/Yakima-WindJa.../dp/B002IAL554

    I haven't experienced this but have heard that guys get a howling wind noise off of light bar cooling fins. The fins are on the back of the housing and the howling is from the wind pulling over the top and bottom and rolling over the fins. They usually get rid of the noise by disrupting the wind flow over the fins.


    I may also be getting lucky. Version 1 and 2 are both quite low so there is a chance the wind off the windshield blows over the top of the empty basket. If it were taller I'm sure it would catch more wind and be more susceptible to wind even with expanded steel.
    Last edited by 4x4mike; 04-27-2017 at 06:49 AM.

  10. #10
    I confess, I only skimmed it too. He gets pretty in depth with it.

    Sean, I don't think you need to use expanded metal, per se. You can try wrapping a wire around the bars like they do with radio antennas, but I'm thinking the wire would have to be fairly thick, like around 0.10" diameter or so.

    Or you can use aluminum sheet metal like I was going to try but never did. I don't think it needs to cover the whole surface, but maybe 6-10" would do.
    -------------------------
    Steve
    1993 4runner, SAS, 3.0L, Auto Tranny
    2007 4runner, stock. For now.

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