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Thread: Corax's 1UZ swap

  1. #11
    Aww you don't want to utilize the hydraulic fan system???
    I figured for room the system would have to go.

    I love it in Project Fluffy I think its a neat feature lol! This first time I ever encountered a fan like that was on an 92 LS400 I believe, it through me for a loop.

  2. #12
    finally starting to move on this again. I just purchased the engine, and hopefully, I'll get it running and road worthy within the 30 day warranty the engine comes with.
    Almost all JDM engine dealers offer a 30 day warranty, some give 60 days, very few offer 90 days. After looking at engines on eBay for the last few weeks, I settled on an engine from JDM Alliance out of Texas - they have a lot of reviews and most of them are positive. There will always be a few unsatisfied people, it's inevitable. These are basically junkyard engines after all which have been shipped halfway around the world stacked 3 or 4 high with cardboard separating the layers. Here's how they're often packed inside the container - a layer of parts, whatever they have on hand is tossed on top before adding another layer


    One thing I've realized while looking at a lot of engines is that the 1UZFE w/ VVTi came in 2 versions in Japan. I believe the 1st, which is the one of the left, was offered from 98-2000 (note the larger ignition coils, these rarely go bad). In 2001, the US got the 3UZ with a displacement bump to 4.3L. The 1UZ was still offered in Japan until 2003ish, but with the updated ignition coils that the 3UZ in the US used. The coils are not interchangeable, and I would almost guarantee that the ECU pinout is different. Since it's REALLY hard to find Japanese spec wiring diagrams, I spent a bit of extra time looking for one which I could use a USDM spec ECU with (which will also allow me to use the Torque app to see sensor data).


    There's also 2 other differences with JDM 1UZs. In the US, the harness comes off the back right side of the engine in the LS400 and SC400 models, through the firewall on the same side, and the ECU is mounted inside the vehicle. In Japan, since the steering wheel is on the wrong side, and there's usually no room on the "driver side", the harness comes off the left side of the engine before going through the firewall. On the GS400 (USDM and JDM), the harness comes off the front left of the engine, and the ECU mounts in a special box in the engine bay. I wasn't sure if I'd have room in the engine bay for an ECU, so I bought a 1UZ with the harness coming off the back. If I HAVE to, I might get a USDM harness, but I think the harness may reach to put the ECU inside on the passenger side (or I may have to extend the wires). Or, I could still mount it in the engine bay if I have to (inside a proper enclosure to keep dirt and water out), but I'd have some extra harness to deal with if I go that route.

    That's about it for now. Engine should be here in 5 working days. I need to make sure the exhaust manifolds I have (from a GX470) will bolt up, and I'm going to pull the intake to "fix" the starter mounting down in the valley of the enginefinally starting to move on this again. I just purchased the engine, and hopefully, I'll get it running and road worthy within the 30 day warranty the engine comes with.
    Almost all JDM engine dealers offer a 30 day warranty, some give 60 days, very few offer 90 days. After looking at engines on eBay for the last few weeks, I settled on an engine from JDM Alliance out of Texas - they have a lot of reviews and most of them are positive. There will always be a few unsatisfied people, it's inevitabl. These are basically junkyard engines after all which have been shipped halfway around the world stacked 3 or 4 high with cardboard separating the layers. Here's how they're often packed inside the container - a layer of parts, whatever they have on hand is tossed on top before adding another layer
    Keith '88 4runner SR5 Garage Thread

  3. #13
    Awesome! Look Forward to seeing progress!

  4. #14
    engine should be here tomorrow, then I have 2 1/2 weeks to get everything prepped for install
    Keith '88 4runner SR5 Garage Thread

  5. #15
    My engine was delivered on Wednesday, so now the fun begins prepping it for install in 2 weeks
    If you look really close, it's the same exact engine in the pic from post #8 above. That was just a random pic on eBay that I stole almost a year ago, and it ended up being the same exact engine I ordered.


    first order of business was to unbolt the big heavy cast iron manifolds and bolt on the GX470 log style manifolds I saved for this project (note, the cats were cut off for clearance, the exhaust will have a bigger cat after the spot where the 2 sides merge). These tuck in really close to the engine and are required for steering gear box clearance on the driver side - not the best design, but it will suffice


    next up was a starter motor mod to making servicing easier if I ever have to replace it. In stock configuration, the starter bolts in from the back side of the block. If I have the engine tucked as close to the firewall as possible, that makes removing the bolts very difficult, if not impossible. So the fix is to tap the holes for M10x1.25 helicoils - no need to drill the holes in the block, they are already the perfect size. In the pic, the left side hole is already heli-coiled.


    run 2 M10x1.25 x 45mm long bolts in from the back side. You can also see my shiny new flywheel. The 1UZ was never offered with a manual trans, so this is from a 3VZE engine with slightly elongated bolt holes. The center bore is a very tight fit on the snout at the end of the crank, so I have no worries about it being concentric.


    note the slot I cut in the end of the bolt (painted yellow) - if the bolts do have to be removed, just break them loose with a wrench and use a screw driver from the front side to thread them out towards the rear of the truck


    see the way the harness is routed in on the right side in the pic above? this meant I had to use a plain crows foot to tighten the stud/bolt under the harness. Kind of a pain, but hopefully not as bad as having to remove the bolts from between the engine and the firewall


    I got the engine side of the engine mounts made. These were cut and drilled out of 1/4" plate to reduce warpage when I weld on the part which goes down to the rubber mounts, otherwise, 1/8" probably would have sufficed. I also got a start on making the brackets to relocate the power steering pump to the driver side - pics of those when I get them done.
    Keith '88 4runner SR5 Garage Thread

  6. #16
    This is good stuff, Keith. You're and automotive genius.
    -Daniel2000 4Runner Sport | V6 | 5spd | 4x4 | Leather | 265/75-16 BFG AT/KO | OBA | BudBuilt front skid

    1990 4Runner SR5 | V6 | Auto | 2wd | 3.90 rear | Cobra CB | 265/65r17 Bridgestone Duelers H/Ts | '08 Tacoma 5 spoke rims | Has an 11:1 crawl ratio! SOLD

  7. #17
    thanks. I see myself as a clever monkey with a wrench and the ability to melt metal together to make useful shapes
    Keith '88 4runner SR5 Garage Thread

  8. #18
    Looking awesome Keith, Love the idea you had for the starter.
    Your making me want to do this swap in the silver 4Runner I have. Look forward to the wiring setup when you get to it as well as how you work out the immobilizer. I know you touched on it earlier, just to see it worked out later will help.

  9. #19
    PS pump relocation.
    To keep the auto tensioner, I needed an idler where the PS pump used to be on the right side of the engine, so I made this bracket. The idler is the same part as the upper idler pulley




    on the left side, for the PS pump. I used a stock 1UZ pulley and had it bored to .710" to work with the 4runner PS pump (keyway was hand filed in 5 minutes). I should be able to use the stock 4runner PS lines with this setup.


    the air control valve which raises the idle slightly when the pump is building pressure was eliminated. There just wasn't enough room if I wanted to keep the pump as close to the engine as possible + I've read online where many people have eliminated leaking ones with no bad side effects.


    you can see why the extra idler pulley was required to clear the tensioner
    Keith '88 4runner SR5 Garage Thread

  10. #20
    Been a busy last few days . . .
    Installed the trans adapter plate. started by removing the front trans plate




    side by side view of the adapter plate and the stock front trans plate, note all the oil passages machined into the adapter


    all cleaned and ready for the adapter


    adapter plate installed and locations marked for hoses


    5/8" holes drilled



    . . . which had to be elongated slightly because my marks were a hair off, here's the distance to the center of the hose


    hoses installed


    short piece of rubber hose over the clutch slave hose and the holes sealed with Toyota FIPG



    Spec Stage 2 Clutch set I'll be using



    ready for the real work to begin, last day the 7MGE will be powering my 4runner


    couple hours later. trans removed, engine disconnected and ready to get pulled


    end of day 1
    Last edited by corax; 10-07-2018 at 10:15 AM.
    Keith '88 4runner SR5 Garage Thread

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