Dye testing- power steering lines need replacing and rear main seal (engine oil)

[Bob98SR5]

Alrighty, so that dye testing was eye opening to say the least.

So in case you're curious, here's what I used:

Dye
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Flashlight
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I probably went a bit overboard on the dye, but it really made where the leaks were very, very obvious. It looks like the blood from the Predator lol. So I noticed that the right side of my rear skid plate as well as the left side front skid plate had leakage. This is even after having the power steering pump swapped out for a new NAPA made p/s pump (let's see how long it lasts), which at the very least fixed the leak around the pump that was spraying p/s fluid everywhere and making a mess.

So taking a look at the smaller of the two leak areas, I could clearly see that on the return side that the hose ends were cracking and I'm guessing that the spring hose clamps are not as tight as they used to be. But there appears to be a hose next to it that's weeping from the hose.

I traced the p/s hard line across the vehicle back into the body and where the hose ends terminate to the metal crimped end is where the most wetness and leakage is located. The hoses are literally weeping p/s fluid from both the hose and near the hose end. I tried to take a picture but it's next to impossible trying to hold the UV flashlight and the camera at the same time in that cramped little space. The end result is that weeping leakage flows down to the rack and across the cross member. Most of it was as expected pooling near the driver's side steering rack boot.

Rear main seal
As one mechanic a few years ago pointed out, the rear main seal is weeping oil. It hasn't been that bad until recently. It was difficult to see and trace w/o the UV light and dye. So basically it's weeping oil from the bottom of the bell housing and dripping right onto the cross member. That oil leakage is dripping straight down to the big ol' center steering rack nut.

Wow this is going to be one time consuming b@#ch. Not to mention the stock parts for just the p/s lines alone (all the little parts too) is around $550. I'm sure cheaper parts can be found on rockauto, but my barometer is OEM. I didn't even price out the rear main seal.

Ok I'm thoroughly depressed. Time to go to bed and deal with this later.

[4x4mike]

Sad to see Bob. Do you plan to use the product Sean recommended to see if that will stop the small leaks?

I remember CYi5 had to do his rear main years ago. I saved a few pictures, just because I guess. I bet the seal is cheap compared to the labor involved in replacing it.

[Bob98SR5]

Mike,

Yeah I’m planning on trying the seal stuff that Sean recommended. It should arrive early as today.

[Seanz0rz]

Bob, you can also use that ATP stuff in Oil. Never tried it, but thought about it to solve my leaking valve cover gaskets. The active ingredient is a plasticizer that helps keep the rubber stuff rubbery. Might be worth a try, certainly cheaper than some alternatives.

[Bob98SR5]

Bob, you can also use that ATP stuff in Oil. Never tried it, but thought about it to solve my leaking valve cover gaskets. The active ingredient is a plasticizer that helps keep the rubber stuff rubbery. Might be worth a try, certainly cheaper than some alternatives.

Man, I'm lucky to have made it home today. The p/s leak definitely getting worse. Good thing I brought some ATF with me.

I had training class about 30 mins away from home for work and once done, I returned to the 4Runner and there was a nice sized puddle from the P/S pressure lines as I described last night. I topped it off a bit and then even still I heard a bit of groaning pulling out of the lot. Seems like the P/S pump is not getting all that it needs due to the lost pressure from the leak. When I was backing up into the driveway, there was this nice little leak trail into the driveway.

Time to buy the parts.

Looking at Olathe Toyota's site (I've had great service, but probably not the cheapest), the parts total with shipping comes out to a whopping ~$635.

Questions since I haven't bought OEM parts online in awhile other than small parts from Amazon:

- Do any of you guys have online parts stores you like? Price will be important for me.
- I'm considering buying ACDelco parts from Rockauto esp. after doing a quick scan of their parts cost vs OEM. Any horror stories about their parts? Any good non-OEM parts brands to consider?

On the rear main seal leak, one guy in my class said to check the back of the valve cover. Didn't think about that, so I'll check that tonight w/ the UV light. But pretty sure it's the RM seal.

Thanks fellas. Now onto researching the difficulty of the P/S pressure line job.

[Seanz0rz]

I use https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/pa...?siteid=214329

I would keep with OEM or trusted OEM brand, like Aisin or Denso.

[Bob98SR5]

So one other area I neglected to check was behind the valve cover. Sure enough there appears to be some leakage but in my opinion it is probably not the source of the major oil leak. Take a look at the oil seepage. It looks too crusty and semi dry vs an oily drippy leak. What do you guys think?

I’m going to clean this oily area as best as I can given this very tight space and run the engine a bit to check for seepage or dripping.

I’m still convinced though that this is a rear main seal problem.

[Bob98SR5]

Pics of leak from camshaft plugs

[4x4mike]

Although expensive I'm with Sean on the OEM or like replacements. I don't have any experience with Rock Auto but I know they are very popular and many use them. I chalk them up to an AutoZone or Kragen. Results may vary and there is a good chance they will work but for how long?

I've purchased most of my OE parts from Camelback. If it's in stock it ships fast and I think it's free shipping if you're spending as much as you are. At one time there were coupon codes but I haven't seen any in a long time. I believe Rock Auto has many coupons especially to pull new customers in.

I changed the valve cover gaskets, oil tube seals, cam seals, etc on the 3rd gen a year or so ago. The covers weren't leaking but I could smell a warm oil scent on warm days. I was worried about a leak but never found anything dripping or new. The rear of the covers and top of the block looked similar to your pictures so I went along with the repair. If the cam seals are leaking they would drip down to where you're seeing you leak, at the bottom.

Did the RM get worse after your drive to Mammoth? Had you driven it that far in awhile? Perhaps the extended drive, loaded and at elevation pushed things around. I'd give things a wipe down and inspect after driving some more. Pismo had a way of disrupting my 3rd gen. Gear oil would burp out of the front diff breather and everything would act a little different out there, even for a bit after coming home.

[Bob98SR5]

Although expensive I'm with Sean on the OEM or like replacements. I don't have any experience with Rock Auto but I know they are very popular and many use them. I chalk them up to an AutoZone or Kragen. Results may vary and there is a good chance they will work but for how long?

I've purchased most of my OE parts from Camelback. If it's in stock it ships fast and I think it's free shipping if you're spending as much as you are. At one time there were coupon codes but I haven't seen any in a long time. I believe Rock Auto has many coupons especially to pull new customers in.

I changed the valve cover gaskets, oil tube seals, cam seals, etc on the 3rd gen a year or so ago. The covers weren't leaking but I could smell a warm oil scent on warm days. I was worried about a leak but never found anything dripping or new. The rear of the covers and top of the block looked similar to your pictures so I went along with the repair. If the cam seals are leaking they would drip down to where you're seeing you leak, at the bottom.

Did the RM get worse after your drive to Mammoth? Had you driven it that far in awhile? Perhaps the extended drive, loaded and at elevation pushed things around. I'd give things a wipe down and inspect after driving some more. Pismo had a way of disrupting my 3rd gen. Gear oil would burp out of the front diff breather and everything would act a little different out there, even for a bit after coming home.

Mike (and Sean),

If I can find Aisin or Denso replacement parts like Sean suggested, I'll go with them. I have them for my plug wires and they seem to be holding up just fine. I'll check your posts for your work you did. I vaguely recall that I might have changed out my valve cover gasket and the rear plugs (obviously not well if I did in fact do them!) when changed out two injectors and all the plugs. I'll have to check my folder of parts receipts. In any case even if I did, I'll do them again. I recall it wasn't a difficult job to pull off the plenum and other stuff. Just tedious.

I'm pretty sure the RM got worse after the Mammoth drive and no, I haven't taken the 4Runner on a long, extended drive like that esp w/ 4 people and gear. I also added 10-30W synthetic as it was on sale. I may go with a thicker weight oil like 10-40W and the type of oil for older vehicles that have the chemicals that swells gaskets and such. They seemed to work for the ol' Biodiesel Benz so I'm willing to give it a try. FYI I'm going to hold off on adding the AT-205.

Thanks gents.

Bob