I've gotten Aisin and Denso stuff at Napa. My local O'Riely/Kragen has a really good guy behind the counter that has been helpful in the past but I only buy things like oil and paint from them (no parts except wiper blades). I feel my Napa has a good blend of help and parts. Might be worth checking out.
You're right about the tedious-ness of valve covers and injector installs, I did both but at different times. Not hard work but required a lot of steps and small parts.
Ok cool, I'll check with NAPA.
I remembered after I posted last that Carquest also carried Aisin and Denso as they had the lowest price, and a machine shop, for my rear axle seals and bearings.
No bueno on Aisin and Denso making power steering lines. I even checked their mfg website's catalog and search engines. On a somewhat happier note, Conicelli Toyota (aka Partznet) sent me a coupon for 10% off, so for all the lines, control valve, etc (everything you need to buy to replace 100% of the power steering equipment between the p/s pump and rack) is $482 w/ shipping. Camelback was $534 and Olathe was in the stratosphere.
Curious to see who made the OEM lines. Post up pictures of the new lines, possible they can be sourced cheaper. Although that's not a bad price. I'm sure you could have saved a tiny bit if you had them custom made at a hydraulic shop, but that is alot of effort.
2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...
1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.
Sean,
Good question. So far based on my research many people have tried to find a cheaper way of doing this but the problem appears to be getting the combined lines off without destroying them at the connection point into the steering rack. Most say that to get to turn the nut you have to unbolt rack enough to swing it away a bit for some room. And all unanimously say it’s a bitch to get off and requires a brake line wrench (flare but wrench?).
On non OEM hoses I read a few people say that Gates is a preferred non OEM replacement brand for the Subaru community. And they come separate so easier to route (so they say). And yes a very significant cost difference. If I go the Gates route, I’d still buy the fittings from Toyota. The cost difference is about 50 pct by buying Gates lines and Toyota fittings.
Still researching...
Alrighty looks like I replaced the valve cover gasket and misc plugs back in July 2106. Obviously I didn’t do the rear cam plu very well. Also the kit didn’t include those half moons but I recall reusing them. Anyways is it worth buying it again or just doing over using the existing kit?
When I did the valve covers on the Lexus 4.7, I didn't even bother touching the cam half moons. Mine was leaking because the seal had gone hard and the bolts were all extremely loose. I made sure to tighten them more than spec. Not sure if it was a good idea, but I did it.
For the rack, the lines are a pain to get to. I would use a flare nut wrench if you can. Pick up a set of flare nut crows feet if you can, that might make it easier to get in there, plus you can use it with a torque wrench.
2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...
1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.
2016?
That wasn't too long ago.
I wouldn't bother replacing the half moons as they are metal and can be reused. Just make sure you clean them and their mating surfaces really well. The plugs I'd buy new if they are old (your post above says 2106 so it's unclear on their age) and again make sure everything is clean and use Toyota FIPG for the best results.
Ok guys, I finally had some dedicated me time to make sure I'm ordering the right parts. I took a different tack and bought some OEM parts and not others (pics attached). So all of the power steering line fittings including control valve the I bought OEM from Conicelli Toyota while the valve cover gasket and the pressure and return lines I bought off-brand from Rock Auto. I decided to buy a new gasket kit (non-OEM) but those cam plugs I bought OEM.
Who knows if this strategy will be a good one, so I'll be the test case for this mixed parts strategy. The cost savings is significant. In total I spent (rounding) $220 + $90 = $310. In comparison for just the Toyota OEM pressure and return lines, that cost alone is $434.29.
Time to take the plenum and valve covers off. Good chance to clean the engine bay at the same time.
On another note, my Airlift airbag on the side I really need it (drivers) does not hold pressure. In the process I figured out a neat little trick to get the bag out---use a hand vacuum pump! So all I did was jacked up the passenger side as far as my jack could go so as to decompress the spring. Then I applied vacuum and it literally folded into itself in three places. From there it was just a matter of folding the bottom and wiggling and pulling it out. I'm going to send that bag in for a replacement. Not sure why it won't hold air, but I applied air to the hoses separately, to the airbag separately, and even dunked the whole thing under water. Oddly enough there aren't any air bubbles coming out of it, but it'll lose pressure nonetheless.
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