Stevo3's Fuel Upgrade Thread

[blink]

Steve, great to see a fellow another member from arizona getting supercharged.The supercharger's bypass valve will only close under moderate to heavy acceleration, so as long as your light on the pedal you wont create boost. This means that your engine will run as it normally did before you installed the s/c. If you have any questions or need a hand with your install feel free to ask. Ive been there and done those same mods on a 13 seconds Tacoma i had

[mastacox]

So I have a question, I cannot remove the exhaust pipe thats inbetween the downpipe and the cat to get the bung installed. So, because the URD computer has a preset in it to get my truck to alteast start up and run. Am I able to drive a few miles on it like that w/o having the afr meter hooked up. Its going to be the only way I can get it to the muffler shop to have the bung put on for it. What do you guys think?

Since you've got the 7th injector, you should be able to drive around no problem as long as you don't go into boost. Even when you go into boost, you might be ok depending on how accurate the default map is.

[Stevo3]

Since you've got the 7th injector, you should be able to drive around no problem as long as you don't go into boost. Even when you go into boost, you might be ok depending on how accurate the default map is.

I dont have the 7th injector kit, i have the grey s/c which doesnt provide the port for the 7th injector, i got the 6 new injectors from URD which are the 318cc bosch injectors. I need to call Brian again today about swapping out the 2.1 pulley to the 2.2, Im the person that is never lucky to get things right the first time but what can you do.

And Blink, Thanks for offereing assistance. Im sure i will be asking a few questions here and there.

Todays plans are installing the new injectors when i get home from work. And if i have enough time ill be tearing apart the dash to get the piggy back computer behind the dash cluster.

Heres a question for you guys, Should i just keep the boost line hooked up to the fuel pressure regulator? Im pretty sure thats what the instructions say, but they arent in front of me at the moment because im at work. *sigh*

I just want to work on my truck, the injectors and piggy back comp. are the last 2 steps i can do until the s/c is back in my possesion so i can get the bung put on for the o2 sensor.

[blink]

Stevo,, keep the boost line attached to the fuel pressure regulator.

[mastacox]

I dont have the 7th injector kit, i have the grey s/c which doesnt provide the port for the 7th injector, i got the 6 new injectors from URD which are the 318cc bosch injectors.

*duh* I knew that, I was thinking of Speedy on YT...

I think your truck should run with the default map but it's hard to say how well... You're just going to have to do it the hard way I guess, and see what happens. My map was far enough off that it wouldn't idle, and was very rich overall until i made some initial changes to the map. But being at high altitude, that might be why. I'd be willing to send you my map; that way if your ish doesn't work with the default you could try mine and see what happens... I think things will run well enough to drive to the exhaust shop anyway, as long as you stay out of boost.

Heres a question for you guys, Should i just keep the boost line hooked up to the fuel pressure regulator? Im pretty sure thats what the instructions say, but they arent in front of me at the moment because im at work. *sigh*

I just want to work on my truck, the injectors and piggy back comp. are the last 2 steps i can do until the s/c is back in my possesion so i can get the bung put on for the o2 sensor.

Yes, keep the FPR hooked up to the boost line.

[Stevo3]

Yeah, im willing to bet the high altitude has a lot to do with it, because they are located in california, assuming where they have tested the product there and came up with the maps at that altitude. Which isnt off by near as much as where you are located. So im guess i should be fine until i get to the shop to have the o2 bung welded on.

So, the s/c should be arriving at Magnuson today sometime early im hoping. So David can call me back with how bad the damages are and what itll cost to rebuild. Im anxious to hear whats all wrong with it.

Ill be having some questions on the wiring of the urd box, when i get home ill go over it again, but there are some things in there that confused me, like on certain ones 2 wires from the box go to one on the plugs. and it says one before the other orsomething of that sort.

And is there a power wire to that thing that i need to hook up to a separate fused line? or does it pull its power from the ecu itself?

[blink]

Usually those kits tell you to tap a 12v ignition wire for power. I personally run a dedicated power and ground wire from the battery for piece of mind

[Stevo3]

I dont recall seeing anything about tapping into the ignition, but if i run it separetly wont it be on all the time then?

[blink]

Yup, but the power draw is so minimal it wont run down your battery.

[Stevo3]

If the power is so minimal being drawn, why is it so bad to connect it directly to the ingition itself?