Are these symptoms of a starter or solenoid going bad?

[Mojo_Risin]

For about the last month I've had an intermittent starting problem. Sometimes I turn the key and the get just a crank or two and it just stops cranking. Try again and it starts right up nice and quick. Or sometimes I get no cranking at all. Try again - get maybe 2 cranks and it stops. But (knock on wood) always ends up starting. I never get the tell-tell clicking noise of a bad started. I replaced the battery to an optima - cleaned the cables, battery connection is tight. One other weird thing is it seems to happen more on HOT days - not when the truck is hot per se but just hot outside.

any insight?

John

[GSGALLANT]

I'd still put money on starter contacts (or maybe the starter relay). There is an easy test you can do. It isn't really easy to get at, but it's do-able... remove the small control wire going to the starter (It's held on with a clip that locks in place when you push it in, so there's a small tab you have to push in before you pull it out. I used a really long screwdriver to push the tab in while I pulled on the clip with my free hand.)

Put the hot lead from a voltmeter to the wire you just remove, and ground the negative lead from the voltmeter somewhere on the frame or engine (clean rust to ensure you've got a good connection to ground). Have somebody turn and hold the ignition key to "Start" for approx 5 seconds, and verify that you're getting approx 11.5-12.5 volts on your meter. Repeat the test 5 or 6 times to make sure you're getting consistant results.

If you are getting good voltage at the control wire, order up some starter contacts and rebuild that starter. If you're not getting good voltage, start by checking the starter relay (there are a few other switches to check as well, but the relay would be my first guess if you don't have good voltage.)

[MTL_4runner]

I'd just replace the relay first on principle that it is easy. If the problem ceases, you'll know what it was. If the issue persists, 9 times out of 10 you need to replace the starter contacts (it's alot of manual labor/work to remove the starter and change them out, but the contacts themselves are very cheap.....under $5 total and available from any auto-electric shop).

[d0ubledown]

yep...most likely the contacts. when i had that problem...i sometimes wouldnt get a crank. just clicks...and on 3rd try it'll fire up. the starter itself was a pain to get out. some got it out no problems..but after numerous attempts, i just ended up removing a PS line and dropping it out. contacts are pretty much re & re. dont forget to bleed the PS if you did have to drop the line...

[Mojo_Risin]

yeah - I've bought the new contacts just have to to the work and pull the starter and put them in. It's a very intermintent problem so I keep putting it off. Will try to get to it this weekend.

John

[Markduce]

Mine was doing the same thing. And it ended up being the starter. Its easy to get to and unbolt but thats where easy stops. I also removed my ps line.

The Starter isnt to bad on price from the parts store. And it sure beats the 5-10 min beg and start option i had before. I kinda let mine go to long.

[881stGenRunner]

changing the starter on a 3.0 is a female dog. i havent messed with a 3.4, but the 3.0 sux. If you do end up replacing the starter, the best quality starter i have recieved thus far is one from Napa. It was also the most expensive

[Robinhood4x4]

Unless you do a SAS. Then it's like a 15 minute job.

[881stGenRunner]

Unless you do a SAS. Then it's like a 15 minute job.

we had to pull my brothers recently and he has a 93 3.0 AT and the Bilstein was right in the way. That was a pain int he arse to take off. But after that the starter was really easy to get to.
If you want to talk about easy, change one on a 22R/RE. The can pull it from the engine bay, you dont even have to get int he fender!

[Mojo_Risin]

What's frustrating is it hasn't done it again now since I posted the thread. Wouldn't bad starter contacts be more repetitive of a problem?

John