Cheap Power Brake Bleeder

[Bob98SR5]

jamie,

i have a writeup that is pending on this very topic! ill post pics later

bob

[CJM]

Interesting concept, truthfully I have bled brakes many ways. I tried a regular bleeder, a power bleeder, gravity bleeding and such.

Believe it or not, what works the best is still having 2 people do it and using one to pump and one to bleed.

[GSGALLANT]

Interesting concept, truthfully I have bled brakes many ways. I tried a regular bleeder, a power bleeder, gravity bleeding and such.

Believe it or not, what works the best is still having 2 people do it and using one to pump and one to bleed.

With all due respect, this method is way easier than having two people do the pump-hold-open-close-release and repeat method. I've tried it both ways also. Also, using this method, you ensure that you will not damage the seals in the master cylinder, which is possible while doing the pedal pump method if you allow the brake pedal to sink down lower than it typically does, and if there is any corrosion on the MC piston.

I have used the exact same adapter to bleed my friend's 99 Tacoma (3.4L with vacuum booster), as well as on my '93 4Runner (3.0L with vacuum booster).

If you don't have a compressor, buy a locking tire chuck to put on the end of the hose, and connect the hose to the valve on one of your tires. Instant compressed air source! The only downfall is you'll have to buy a pressure regulator also, so that you don't explode your brake fluid reservoir with the 30 psi in your tire. After you're done bleeding the brakes, use your bicycle pump to top up your tire pressure again (the bleeding process doesn't use much air volume at all).

By the way, Jamie... Thanks for reposting this here. I had it on Yotatech, but never thought to bring it over when I joined here.

[MTL_4runner]

I gotta agree with GS regarding manual bleeding vs power bleeding. I just finished building mine and it's basically a poor man's version of the air powered shop brake bleeders we used to use when I worked as a mechanic. The power bleeders are far more convienent and effective IMHO than the old pump and hold method and it makes a 2 man job into a one man job which is a huge plus if you're all by yourself.

The one I made from GS's directions fit my brake reservoir perfectly so it's pretty safe to say it fits all 3rd gens and may even fit all Toyotas since it seems that cap is a fairly standard size. I modified the design a bit in that I only used the flex coupler (about $6), the 3/4" to 1/2" elbow (about $2.50) and a 1/2" to 1/4" thread reducer (about $1.50). All said and done I was out the door for less than $10 CDN for the tool (I had an extra air hose coupler at home so the price of that isn't included, nor is the teflon tape I used to connect them all together). I just did a quick test with 10 psi air pressure and it held fine with no leaks so it should be all good for doing a little power bleeding this weekend.

[GSGALLANT]

The only reason I had to use a 1/2" nipple and a 1/2" to 1/4" coupling, was because Canadian Tire was out of 1/2" to 1/4" bushings... which you were able to find. I was in a rush, so I had to improvise. I'm never going to go back to the pump and hold method.

I actually had to bleed my brakes this week after I rebuilt my rear 3rd member and replaced the axle bearings and seals on my '93. 10 minutes from start to finish and I was done. Can't beat it.

[MTL_4runner]

I actually had to bleed my brakes this week after I rebuilt my rear 3rd member and replaced the axle bearings and seals on my '93. 10 minutes from start to finish and I was done. Can't beat it.

Nice, can't wait to give it a try myself!

[MTL_4runner]

The one I made from GS's directions fit my brake reservoir perfectly so it's pretty safe to say it fits all 3rd gens and may even fit all Toyotas since it seems that cap is a fairly standard size. I modified the design a bit in that I only used the flex coupler (about $6), the 3/4" to 1/2" elbow (about $2.50) and a 1/2" to 1/4" thread reducer (about $1.50). All said and done I was out the door for less than $10 CDN for the tool (I had an extra air hose coupler at home so the price of that isn't included, nor is the teflon tape I used to connect them all together). I just did a quick test with 10 psi air pressure and it held fine with no leaks so it should be all good for doing a little power bleeding this weekend.

I actually found that 15-20 psi worked best for me (don't go much more than that though!)

Here's what mine looks like:


Here's what I checked the pressure with:

[GSGALLANT]

Yeah, the fluid would definitely come out faster at 15-20 psi, but I get a bit nervous at pressures that high in a plastic container filled with messy brake fluid. I stick to about 7-10 psi, but it's all about what makes you comfortable.

I have to get one of those swivel connectors for the end of my hose also... those things are convenient.

[914Runner]

Do you guys have a problem with brake fluid shooting out of the coupler when you disconnect the house or how do you slowly de-pressurize the reservoir?

I think I might build one tomorrow, but have a regulator right on the bleeder so its easier to adjust the pressure than going back to the compressor. Would a open/close valve on the bleeder help at all?

Just some thoughts.

[MTL_4runner]

Yeah, the fluid would definitely come out faster at 15-20 psi, but I get a bit nervous at pressures that high in a plastic container filled with messy brake fluid. I stick to about 7-10 psi, but it's all about what makes you comfortable.

I have to get one of those swivel connectors for the end of my hose also... those things are convenient.

The safe range is really anything below 20 psi, but I agree 15 psi would be a good safe limit number to use and most of the time I had it pretty close to that. This is the same pressure range the big name bleeders (Snap-on, etc) use with the one exception that they usually have a chain under them to secure the device to the master cylinder and to create the seal. As long as you stay below 20 psi I'd say there was pretty much a zero chance of doing damage to the brake reservoir. I just found that the higher psi number seemed to free trapped air bubbles that much better (also hitting the caliper with a rubber mallet while bleeding helps too).

I don't know how I ever used my air tools without those swivels (esp the air ratchet). I got mine at Canadian Tire (Campbell Hausfeld brand) but I know Princess Auto hs them too.