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Thread: Writeup: Retrofitting a Toyota e-locker

  1. #11
    I did both actually. I liked the transfer punch but since the hobby shop didn't have a guide I had to start it with the big bit and then drop to the 17/64 for the actual hole. I think everything came out rather well. I wanted to take more pictures but I was filthy. I also did not have a torch so I had to do it with a cut off wheel and then finish it with filing. Crude method and it took me 2.5 hours but the end result came out fairly well. I ran out of time tonight so I didn't finish but I have everything tapped and ready for clean-up and re-installation.


    Used a paint marker to make my first cuts with


    This did not fit so I dragged out a hand file to finish it up with.


    This fit fairly well and was easy to install and remove the diff with.


    Took the actuator off to center punch and begin the holes. Using that big bit to start the holes allowed me to easily start the stud hole that is kinda off the machined surface so that was really nice.


    The holes look crooked in the pic but they really are straight.

    I am sure cleaning up and re-assembly will take me a little while plus I will be attempting to get the front diff done tomorrow as long as the wife lets me. I was a little disappointed I didn't get it done tonight but I am pleased with the outcome. This was kind of a nail biting mod where slow and steady wins the race. No one wants to need to buy a housing.
    Last edited by Kryptoroxx; 09-05-2014 at 10:35 PM.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  2. #12
    Looks like you got everything drilled and tapped, congrats! Are you going to do anything to increase the sealing area next to where you notched the diff?

    I cheated and used a drill press to drill the holes.


    - Matt
    2000 4Runner Sport / 4x4 / 5spd / E-locker / SS 1.2 / 265x75x16 Bighorns / ARB Prado / HD-SKO

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by slomatt View Post
    Looks like you got everything drilled and tapped, congrats! Are you going to do anything to increase the sealing area next to where you notched the diff?

    I cheated and used a drill press to drill the holes.


    - Matt
    And that's what I wished I had. The drill press at the hobby shop was too tall to accomplish a setup like that and what looked to be a drill press in the machine shop was a vertical mill. That was my own mistake for assuming it was a drill and not asking. Excellent work slomatt.

    Adding material to the lip is something I will consider but given how much contact there is already I will probably black seal it behind the paper seal and call it a day. That stuff expands a small amount

    The only way I could add material to the lip would be to mig a bead around the edge of it and honestly my welding skills are not quite....eh....well they aren't confidence inspiring.

    My rollbar mod (in progress)


    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  4. #14
    Well done Matt. I guess I never saw the details in your install. I remember mailing some tools but after the 6 pack of Turbo Dog I don't remember much more. That was tasty and still hardly see it unless I go to Bev Mo.

    Kryptoroxx, I'd look into adding some sealing area. I'm not sure I've seen any that didn't do it. All you need is some non porous boogers that you grind flat. With out it you may end up back under there. Since you have the housing out its easiest to do it now.

    One other point is to not use the paper gasket and sealant. Go with just sealant. I've known some that used both and had to go and take it out later.

    Matt, how is yours holding the seal? Did my weld work well enough? I've kind of always wondered.

  5. #15
    It's all torqued down and back under the truck. I left an oil pan under it and it was about 3 hours before I added oil. I used black rtv and the paper gasket. Everything torqued down well and it wasn't seeping when I left.

    We shall see. The reason I didn't add any material is because all of the sealing area is inside the bolt....not the outside. Now if it hadn't torqued properly I might have to add material so the stud would have better grip. I will find out at 1000 today whether she leaks or not.

    I'm going to check torque on the suspension and get all the connections finished up. I'm adding the elocker vent into the diff breather (up by the gas cap) and adding the electrical to the line keeper I designed for the diff breather.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4mike View Post
    Well done Matt. I guess I never saw the details in your install. I remember mailing some tools but after the 6 pack of Turbo Dog I don't remember much more. That was tasty and still hardly see it unless I go to Bev Mo.

    Kryptoroxx, I'd look into adding some sealing area. I'm not sure I've seen any that didn't do it. All you need is some non porous boogers that you grind flat. With out it you may end up back under there. Since you have the housing out its easiest to do it now.

    One other point is to not use the paper gasket and sealant. Go with just sealant. I've known some that used both and had to go and take it out later.

    Matt, how is yours holding the seal? Did my weld work well enough? I've kind of always wondered.
    Drove the truck around a bit today seeing if a leak would develop but so far so good. It's been my practice to do a very very thin layer of seal on each side of the paper gasket and then to let it dry for a couple of hours before putting the seal to the test.









    This is showing off the pigtails of my own design so that slack and pressure is relieved off of connections on the axle and have lots of slack...but no getting wrapped up in the driveshaft. I ended up routing the elocker vent up to where my diff vent is by the gas filling door. There was only a slight spring extension at full droop so I am happy with the results.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4mike View Post
    Matt, how is yours holding the seal? Did my weld work well enough? I've kind of always wondered.
    Hi Mike,

    Everything worked out great. I used RTV without a gasket and have not had any leaks in the 2+ years I've had the elocker installed. Thanks again for the axle housing.

    - Matt
    2000 4Runner Sport / 4x4 / 5spd / E-locker / SS 1.2 / 265x75x16 Bighorns / ARB Prado / HD-SKO

  8. #18
    Full set of pictures are here: http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/t4r_elocker_swap

    Mike's welds.


    Cut and tapped.


    - Matt
    2000 4Runner Sport / 4x4 / 5spd / E-locker / SS 1.2 / 265x75x16 Bighorns / ARB Prado / HD-SKO

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by slomatt View Post
    Hi Mike,

    Everything worked out great. I used RTV without a gasket and have not had any leaks in the 2+ years I've had the elocker installed. Thanks again for the axle housing.

    - Matt
    Good to see it's still trucking along.

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