Seafoam Injector and Intake Cleaner - GOOD STUFF!

[bamachem]

DIRECTIONS:

GREAT ADVICE from MTL_4runner:

I put this in another thread but seems like it would be good to post it here too because there seems to be some issue when an engine hasn't been cleaned in some time and loose carbon can come off abruptly and foul sensors and spark plugs or clog catalytic converters. Here's what you want to do to prevent this....

You want to run the Seafoam fairly concentrated for the duration of the tank, so put at least 2 cans in (you can add as many as 4 on a full tank.....too many at once and you'll kill your gas milage for the tank so save the heavy doseage for later when you put it though the PCV hose), then fill the tank with the highest grade of gas you can get (ie 91+ octane or better, make sure it's a brand name like Chevron, Shell, etc) and run it until it is as close to empty as you feel comfortable (ie do your best to get somewhere between 1/8 tank and E without running out of gas). Try and resist the urge to top off the tank during that time even if the price of premium goes back down to $1 per gallon.

After your done the first part, then you can be pretty safe about running the next can straight in the engine (via the PCV or some other vacuum hose that goes directly into the intake). You can do 1/3 to 1/2 of a can each time for best results, but be patient after! Always remember to pour SLOWLY when your dumping it into the engine itself and then shut the engine off right after you finish adding the last drop. Leave it for at least 1 full hour and then restart and take it for a drive on the highway.

You may not notice a huge difference if your engine was pretty clean to begin with but I'd bet you'll see a decent improvement in gas mileage after with an engine that was in need. It is also suggested to clean the MAF when doing this for maximum effect (use the red extension tubes with the aerosol can to get the cleaner right down to the wires, but DO NOT TOUCH THEM.....after shake as much out as you can and air dry). I've switched over to using brake cleaner to clean the MAF because it does a much better job than electrical contact cleaner (with electrical cleaner the wires look better, but with brake cleaner they really look like new). Just be sure to let it thoroughly dry before starting the engine and pull the negative battery terminal to reset the ECU to relearn the new MAF readings.

For you guys in Canada, Seafoam is available at any NAPA store for just under $10 CDN per can.




PICS (courtesy of RunnerUp) of the PCV on a 3.4L 5VZ-FE Toyota Engine:

PCV with hose removed_____________________________________PCV hose removed, shown in relation to the throttlebody






Original post from 6/21/2004:

Over the last few months, my gas mileage has been dropping off horribly. Last monday when I filled up I got 13.8 around town (I've been getting 15 in town and 16.5 on the highway). That was the last straw - I had to do SOMETHING. I picked up a can of seafoam along with some TB cleaner and did a little late spring cleaning. I poured the seafoam into the PCV hose with the engine running like on the directions. On the first application, I poured it very slow (1/3 can), then shut off the engine (again, like the directions said). Five minutes later when I started it up, it blew more smoke than the batmobile. After all the smoke subsided, I gave it another treatment, but poured a little faster so that it was almost stalling out. (again, 1/3 can). After starting up, it BILLOWED smoke for several minutes, but the engine just PURRED after it was finished. It was the smoothest running toyota engine I've ever seen. While I was at it, I gave the MAF a good bath along with the air filter and the TB.

Well, that got me back up to 17.2 on the highway on our trip to the beach (still not satisfied).

While I was down there, I picked up another two cans of seafoam and put both into my tank at 1/2 full (4X stronger than in the directions). I ran this for about 20 miles or so, then filled up at a cheapie station ($1.69 when everywhere else was $1.86) and got back on the interstate to drive home. I filled back up here in Birmingham, and I ended up getting 18.1 on the ride home. Not too bad. I can't wait to see if it goes up even more with Shell in the tank...

Now on startup, instead of having to hold the key for a sec for the engine to fire, it starts right up with ZERO hesitation. The injectors and intake must have been pretty bad (106k and counting)...

If you do the seafoam treatment, I'd recommend SEVERAL cans so you can give the intake a good cleaning along with the injectors.

[MTL_4runner]

They also carry Seafoam at Carquest too up here. I found it for $8. 99 over there.

*Edit* Jerks over at Carquest raised their price, now it's $10.99 so NAPA is cheaper!

[bamachem]

OUCH. it's about $5-$6 here. i guess that may be about right for those cannuky dollars, though!

[oly884]

Just a word of advice, don't suck the whole bottle down like some other brands say, good things don't follow.

[MTL_4runner]

OUCH. it's about $5-$6 here. i guess that may be about right for those cannuky dollars, though!

Hahaha....yeah and add to that a 15% sales tax and everything should come packaged with some KY.

That's why I load up on it every time I head to the US for vacation.

[jrallan26]

Using that much Seafoam be brutal on the valves? I have heard stories of people burning up valves using a lot of fuel additives....

[MTL_4runner]

Using that much Seafoam be brutal on the valves? I have heard stories of people burning up valves using a lot of fuel additives....

Not really. The biggest problem by far is fouling of downstream components (like O2 sensors and catalytic converters). If you got a large piece of carbon dislodged and it got stuck in an exhaust valve you may have an issue but again that is why you should ALWAYS run it in the gastank first and then use the treatment straight in the motor after. It costs more that way, but will save you major headache later.

[jrallan26]

Okay I see. Normally I just put the seafoam in the tank and not in the motor. I never wanted to tempt fate by hydrolocking the motor.

[MTL_4runner]

Another alternative to Seafoam is GM Top End Cleaner (There are 2 versions of the aerosol spray and liquid in a can). Here's some more good info which outlines how to use each when using them straight in the motor. Obviously similar to seafoam, you want to use it in the gastank first if you suspect that you have heavy carbon deposits. I'm not sure who makes it for GM (it's obviously a rebrand) but I've heard several people allude to the fact it may be made by the same company that makes the BG products (like BG44K). If anyone has any info on this by all means, please post it up.

Spray / Aerosol:

The aerosol cans of Top End Cleaner may be difficult to find/get so it may require a few calls to track some down. The can initially leads you to believe its for use as a carb cleaner leaving you somewhat clueless on where to spray it. The solution is to remove any small vacuum hose near the throttle body which gets full manifold vacuum (just use a finger to check, you should feel suction) and spray the cleaner directly into the vacuum tube. With the engine running, and your hand on the throttle lever, start spraying into the tube leading to the intake. The cleaner will cause harsh idle, and you will certainly want to give it a little gas by rotating the throttle lever slightly as it tries to die. Continue feeding the truck the entire can. When your almost out, go ahead and try to stall it out (ie keep the can on full blast and let off the throttle), if you don't succeed then just shut off the truck. You want it to sit, allowing the cleaner to break down the carbon for a decent amount of time. The can says 10-20 minutes, you should wait longer (more like 1-2 hours).


Liquid in a can:

It is available at most GM dealerships. At a GM dealer you'll pay about $6+ a can and the P/N is 1050002 but they'll usually have some right at the counter if you just ask for it by name. You will need a small tube (use a red tube like what comes with a can of WD40) and a 12" piece of vacuum hose small enough to fit in side the PCV hose). Now take that red tube and shove it in the end of the vacuum hose and then put the other end of the vacuum hose into the PCV vacuum hose (if needed, use some duct tape on the hose to create a tight seal between everything). The tube will basically act as a metering device so you can't suck in too much at once and hydrolock the motor while doing it (seems to be a common fear). This setup is what you will use to draw the Top End Cleaner out of the can. You will want to have opened the can of top engine cleaner to puncture the metal cap so when you are ready to begin, it is just a matter of unscrewing the cap. The idea here is to draw very slowly, with the plastic tube end. It will make the engine stall if you just submerge it, so use one hand to keep the RPMs on the motor up while you dip the tube in the cleaner with the other hand. Once you get down to about 1/4 of a can left take the PCV hose setup off, set it aside and reconnect the PCV valve. With the engine running, remove the brake booster vacuum line. Once you take that off, put a funnel in the end of the hose (it's best you figure out what funnel will fit that before you start all this). Holding the funnel in one hand take the remaining top engine cleaner and dump it in the funnel. You will want to stall the engine out. So dump it fast. Then you can hook up the brake booster, and get it put back together. Let it sit as mentioned above.

[Seanz0rz]

i did my honda this weekend, really seemed to help, but the entire can was probably a bit too much in hindsight.