Air Elbow Removal
By: Bob_98SR5
Date: August 2001

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After reading Gadget's advice about air elbox removal, I decided to create a "how-to" because its such a cheap and easy mod that will save you $220 (if you buy the K&N FIPK). This mod in combination with other mods will give you more horsepower, better mileage and throttle response. Check out Gadget's dyno results here.

Many of you might be wondering why I chose this mod over the famous "Deck Plate" mod. At the time, I owned a 2WD that I never intended to drive in waist high (or deeper) water. Furthermore, I wanted the benefits of the modification while not exposing what I did to the dealership. On that point, I have no idea how a dealership would view this mod in terms of voiding the warranty, but I wanted to err on the safe side so I did this

Note: Many people I have talked to said they skipped Steps 4 & 5, which saves quite a bit of time. There is no harm in leaving the larger piece on the left. However, I removed it because I would hear the piece knocking inside the wheel well.

Here is what you are trying to remove:



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The right tools
You need:
- Socket wrench w/ extender (see picture below)
- 10mm and 12mm socket tips
- 10mm and 12mm combo wrench (can't remember which one)
- Hacksaw
- File
- hand cleaner




Step 2: Removing the bolts
There are a total of 6 bolts you need to remove to get the elbows off.
- There are 3 attached to the airbox
- There are 2 attached to the elbow
- The last one is attached to the 2nd piece of the elbow (inside the fender wall).



- Remove the elbow bolts (2). These are the easiest
- Remove the airbox bolts (3). You'll need the socket wrench w/ extender. - After removing the bolts, you can move the airbox out of the way and to the right.


Step 3: Removing the elbow and 2nd piece
- You can now wiggle the elbow out very easily. Take it out.
- You can reach inside the fender well and shake the 2nd piece. If you have the temptation to try to yank that 2nd piece out...don't! There is a bolt attached to the bottom of it (see below).




Step 4: Wheelwell Fasteners
By far, this is the hardest step in the process. There are numerous fasteners that need to be removed so that the wheelwell cover can be moved aside in order to remove the single bolt that holds the 2nd part of the elbow to the inside of the right fender.

If you have wheel arch moldings, you have to remove ALL the screws that hold this to the quarter panel. Set it aside.

Here's one type of fastener that need to be removed:



The second type is the type of fastener that has clips that, once inserted, CANNOT be removed from the point of insertion (the outside part you see). You have to pinch the clips from the inside to push it out and remove it. Sorry, no pictures!

Here's the good news:

See the picture above? The wheelwell cover is flexible enough so that you can lift the wheelwell cover up and around this type of fastener. If you are skillful and careful enough, you can remove them all the same way. I believe you have to lift the cover off 4 or so of the fasteners.

Now the next type of fastener is a pain in the ******* to remove. The first one you have to remove can be accessed through the hole that is opened by the removal of the airbox elbow. Shine a light down there and you'll see it. Look carefully and you'll see the two clips that secure the fastener in the hole. I removed it by using needlenose pliers and forcing it out. This was a complete pain in the *******, but I got it out w/out destroying the fastener.

You'll see a second fastner of the same type. Remove that by bending back the wheelwell cover. I used a needlenose plier again. I am sure there are only two of this type that I removed.


Step 5: Removing the 2nd Elbow
Bend back the wheelwell cover. Take your 10mm (or 12mm?) combo wrench and unfasten the single bolt that holds it.


Step 6: Reassembly
Hey, you thought peeling the wheelwell cover off the fasteners was a pain? Here's what I did. I took a screwdriver and slightly enlarged the square holes. You might be able to put the wheelwell covers back on w/o doing this, but this made it much easier w/o sacrificing the integrity of the wheelwell cover.

I believe the 2nd type of fasteners w/ the clips goes on last.

Put your wheel arch molding back on.

Now you have to make a decision here. Do you put the elbow back on or do you leave it as is? If you want to plug the hole w/ the elbow but want to remove the restrictive 90 degree turn, cut it off with a hacksaw. Here's what mine looks like:



I did it because if I needed service at the dealership, they might b.s. me and say that removing the elbow "voided my warranty" or some b.s. like that...why take chances?


Step 7: Resetting the EFI
Remove the EFI fuse found in the fuse box---its the smaller of the two. It is located within the engine compartment. After about 15 minutes, put the EFI fuse back.

Now it's time to buy an AMSOIL air filter. If you have a V6, buy the TS-115. As a courtesy to Gadget, order your AMSOIL filter directly from him.

You'll notice that the power you receive is mostly at freeway speeds somewhere between the 3,000-5,000 rpm range. Throttle response is quicker and the sound is lovely.

Note: Some people choose to skip Step 4 and Step 5 because these two steps take some time to complete. There is no harm in skipping these two steps but since I wanted to make sure that there was no "rattle" from this 2nd air duct piece, I removed it. It is your choice.