Installing an Amp, Component Speakers and a Subwoofer
By: Bob_98SR5
Application: 98 4Runner V6 4x4
Written: 4/2/06
Parts
4 Channel Amp (mine is an old Crossfire CFA-404)
Q-Logic Kick Panel Component Speaker Enclosures
CDT Audio CL-51 Component Speakers
RE Audio 10" Subwoofer
Sealed subwoofer box
RCA cables
8 AWG power (Red) wire
8 AWG ground wire
Speaker wire
Fuse holder
Rubber Grommet
Ring connectors
Tools & Supplies
Phillips head screwdriver
Tape measurer
Soldering Iron and Rosin-core solder
Wet Sponge
Cardboard box
Heat Shrink tubing
Matches or lighter
Alligator clips (2)
Self-tapping screws
Disclaimer
I am providing this write up for illustrative purposes only. Perform at your own risk. Any mods (including this one) you perform on your vehicle is your responsibility. Commercial use of this write up will result in legal action as well as the undying scorn from members of the online Toyota 4Runner community. You've been warned.
Summary
This writeup is an extension of my head unit writeup. I decided that I wanted to upgrade my sound system since I started driving longer distances for my business as well as for vacation trips. Putting the knowledge together was not easy, especially if you have no idea how to do it, the terminology, etc. Special thanks goes to Cebby, DavidA, Bumpin' Yota, and last but not least, NizAsnMonk (thanks for the hookup!).
This writeup is being written several months after I installed this system, so alot of this is from memory. If there are any glaring omissions or inaccuracies, please email me.
However, next to politics and religion, nothing stirs up more passion (and fights) than car audio. Personally, I don't give a donkey's ass if your stereo can kill mine, or that I should've bought this and that because "its the best." I am not interested in hearing about it. But again, if there is something that is incorrect, that is the feedback that I'd like to hear.
Step 1: Planning Your System Layout
Here are some questions you need to ask yourself:
- Where do you want to put your amp?
- Where do you want to put the crossovers?
- Where do you want to mount the subwoofer?
Those questions will help you lay out your system better, what equipment you will want to buy, and what length cables, RCAs, and speaker wires you will need to buy. Here is how I laid out my system:
My system layout was based on the premise to never compromise my rear cargo space. That meant the amplifier and the component speaker's crossovers had to be out of the way. I use my cargo space A LOT, so installing a large amp on the back of the seats (like many people do) was out of the question. That meant that I had to buy an amp that could fit neatly under the driver's seat. Also, I wanted the amp to be easily removed and not too big. Therefore, I purchased a box and a 10" subwoofer---a good compromise between size and sound.
From this point, take a tape measurer and begin to measure the distances from each component. Pad your figure a little just in case. Now I am going to explain everything from component to component.
Step 2: Clearing the Workspace
As always when doing electrical work, remove the negative battery cable first from your battery.
We'll begin by removing the front driver's seat. For the front seat, slide the seats forward and remove the end caps. Gentle pulling in a circular motion will most likely reveal which way to remove it. If you're not sure, you're going to have to poke your nose real close and look, but for the most part, they're easy to remove. After removing the rear end caps, slide the seats backwards and remove the fronts using the same methodology above. After removing the end caps, place them in the seat back pockets. Take a 14mm socket and remove each of the 4 bolts. You may need to use a breaker bar. After removing the bolts, place them in the seat back pockets. Remove both front seats.
Remove the step panels on the front and rear passenger side by unscrewing the 4 and 3 phillips head screws, respectively. Remove the step panel by pulling upwards. You can then pull off the kick panel. And here's a great tip that you should do throughout this mod: use masking tape to tape the various screws and/or fasteners to the panels you remove. It's a great way of making sure you don't lose the fasteners. After removing the step panels, pull of the kick panel.
Repeat on the other side. Remove the front step panel and then the kick panel. There's no need to remove the passenger front seat nor the rear step panel.
Remove the four end caps (C). Unbolt the seats w/ a 14mm socket. Unscrew phillips head screws (S), tape to the panel itself. Then pull out kick panel (K) Trust me, you'll thank me for this tip when you start re-assembling everything!
Next, remove the bottom trim panel underneath the steering column. There are four 10mm bolts you need to remove. Once removed, unscrew the four Phillips-head screws that hold the hood and gas tank hatch to the lower panel. Move the panel out of the way. Since you will be running your 8AWG power wire either through the existing firewall boot or drilling a new one (that's what I did), remove the A/C duct underneath the steering column. It is held together by a single Phillips-head screw. After removing the screw, jiggle it out of the way.
Remove knobs (K), lift up (L). Optional: removing side screws (S) will make this job easier Remove two knobs (K), two dials (D) and single AC switch (A). Remove AC face
There are three pesky phillips head screws that securely fasten the radio panel fascia to your 4Runner. Remove those screws. Now you are ready to lift out the radio panel fascia itself. Begin by grabbing it from the bottom and pulling upwards and outwards. The radio panel fascia is clipped at the top. Once lifted out of place, remove the three harnesses located on the upper driver's side (hazard, clock and rear defroster). Continue by unfastening the bottom ashtray light (twist and pull out) and the cigarette lighter harness (unplug). Finish by moving this big hunk of plastic out of the way.
Remove screws (S). One is on the left and not shown in this picture Unclip the three harnesses (H)
Step 3: Wiring Your Amplifier
Refer to the layout in Step 1. What I am about to describe is the red line (power) running from the battery to the amp as well as the single black line (ground) running from the amp to the amp.
My amplifier RMS is rated at 50 x 4. A stereo system running this load must use 8AWG wiring according to this chart
.
Therefore, I hooked up a ring connector to one end of my red 8AWG cable and attached it to the positive battery post. Next, I mounted a 30amp AGU fuse holder on top of my fuse panel box with self-tapping screws. Cut your power cable to the proper length, strip about 1/2 to 3/4" of covering off, and screw it into the fuse holder. Remember, keep this length of power cable running from the positive battery terminal to the fuse holder under 12" in length. This part here is very crucial to your vehicle's safety. Should there be a short, the only wire that will burn and/or catch fire is this little cable. Here's a picture of the inline fuse and the 8awg cable running to and from it:
Now you'll need to run the rest of the power wire from the fuse holder to the amp itself. However, it is much easier to run the rest of the cable from the interior into the engine bay. Most people run it through the existing firewall, but I drilled a new hole in the firewall. Place an appropriate metal cutting drill bit on your drill and drill your hole. Run the power cable through the hole. Make sure there is enough to run to the amp as well as the fuse holder. Give it a good foot or two just in case.
After running the cable to the fuse holder, strip the protective covering off and then attach it to the fuse holder. At the other end, run your rubber grommet and slide it along the length of the cable until you can insert it into your new firewall hole. Run the power wire along the left side of your vehicle, down the door trim panel area, and then to the rectangular metal "hump". Cut a small X-shaped hole and then run the power wire through it. Crimp on a ring connector to the end of that wire and then connect it to the 12V + connection on your amp.
Power cable with grommet Here is a shot of a rubber grommet test fitted for my 8awg power cable
From there, you will need to ground the amp. As with any ground that you do, make sure you take off some paint. I grounded mine near the seat. Crimp on a ring connector to the 8AWG black ground wire and attached it to the amp's ground connection point. Next, run that wire to your grounding point, scrape some paint off (a dremel sanding drum works best) and then crimp a ring connector onto it. Finish by using a self-tapping metal screw to securely ground your amp.