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Trekker
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Trekker
Re: Corax's '88 Runner
Got my reverse lights on today. I used a relay for the lights so that the reverse switch on the transmission doesn't burn out trying to pass too much current. The first pic explains the wiring, which was easy. For power, I tapped off a 12 gauge wire that I had run for my trailer socket adapter. The lights I decided to use were cheapo Pilot driving lights I picked up from some parts store awhile back for $20.
![](http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/591/1000038lz3.jpg)
Mounting for these lights is pretty standard, so I just welded a 1.5"x5"x1/8" tab onto my bumper. I recessed them into the tube work fairly well, so I don't expect they'll break anytime soon.
![](http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/2535/1000039wk7.jpg)
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Trekker
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Trekker
Re: Corax's '88 Runner
I know Total Chaos sells one, but I wanted it flat on the bottom so I could bolt a skid on later (and link to a Budd Built cross member, which is another future mod). I know Sonoran Steel makes one, but it looks like major overkill (and I'm trying to limit how much weight I add). I had one from Front Range Offroad on a previous project, but they don't make them anymore & I didn't like the way it bolted on. I didn't want a weld on truss because I'd like the option of unbolting it to make dropping the front diff easier.
This is what I came up with, design is based on the Front Range truss, but with weld on mounts. Fab time + install was only ~4 hrs using 2" x 1/2" channel and 2" 1/8" flat bar.
![](http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/7999/1000015ac8.jpg)
![](http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/9292/1000017oo9.jpg)
installed and painted - everything was assembled & both mounts drilled & bolted with it off the vehicle. I tapped it into place between the lower arm perches & welded up the mounts. that way I know there is no slop in the mounts and everything is a nice tight fit. It's strong enough I can jack up the front of the truck with no visible deflection on the truss
![](http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/6048/1000021tz2.jpg)
Since I spent so much time on the radiator and fan getting them to fit, a bit of pretection was in order. I built and installed an expanded steel grill to keep the rocks out of my radiator. used 1/4" square rod on the sides to keep it from bending as easily, it's the gloss black bit under the factory grill
![](http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/4729/grill2nd7.jpg)
Roof rack was swiped off an Isuzu Rodeo, the cross bars were shortened so it would fit between the rear windows. It's mounted with 8 6mm stainless bolts through the shell with brake line cut to length to prevent the walls of the shell from distorting when everything was tightened down. In addition to the factory rubber gasket under the side rails I used just a touch of RTV to prevent and water leaks, so far I've had none.
![](http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/3096/1000028gc8.jpg)
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Trekker
Re: Corax's '88 Runner
a bit more work on cooling for the 7MGE - I'm starting to suspect that I may have sized the radiator a bit small, but then again I wasn't really figuring on being in the South West and having to deal with that much heat. The issue now is on long steep grades at highway speed it'll start to get a bit too warm. the radiator fan doesn't come into play at highway speed, so maybe this is my problem . . .
![](http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2104/1000282nq2.jpg)
![](http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4654/1000284lx9.jpg)
*edit* 6-14-2008
- installed a 160 degree thermostat - no one sells one that low for Toyota (52mm thermostat), but I found a 54mm thermostat rated to 160. I just had to dremel ~1 mm off the O.D. and it fit perfect
- installed a 210 degree 3/8" NPT fan switch that I got off Ebay, but it doesn't seem to work - Shooting the mounting boss with my temp gun it reads 220 degrees but the fan still isn't turning on (and the temp gauge in the dash is uncomfortably high), I can ground the wire going to the switch and the fan turns on - I think I want to find a 185 degree switch anyway now
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Trekker
Re: Corax's '88 Runner
Another trip to the CA Smog Referee Station
1st visit on 2/08 - passed visual and functional - failed tailpipe
%CO %O2 HC CO% NOx (PPM)
test rpm meas meas max meas max meas max meas
15mph 1723 13.6 1.3 121 144 0.70 0.59 1006 3078 GROSS POLLUTER
25mph 2787 14.6 0.2 101 62 0.90 0.17 866 1450 FAIL
-Moved Cat Converter closed to engine so it lights off sooner
-Ditched the 12" elec pusher fan, fabbed new radiator mounts to fit a 14" elec
pusher fan
2nd visit on 5/08 - passed visual and functional - failed tailpipe again, but improved
%CO %O2 HC CO% NOx (PPM)
test rpm meas meas max meas max meas max meas
15mph 1670 13.8 1.0 121 133 0.70 0.38 1006 1687 FAIL
25mph 2751 14.5 0.2 101 40 0.90 0.07 866 1101 FAIL
I'm thinking I need a bigger catalytic converter with more internal surface area to clean the exhaust - the one I have now is kinda small
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Trekker
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Trekker
Re: Corax's '88 Runner
Had a good junkyard find a couple weeks ago - I was looking for a cylinder head to P&P, but instead found an '82 Celica Supra with an F303 axle code, which means it had a 7.5" LSD differential which would fit nicely on the front of my '88 (F=7.5" differential, the 3 at the end designates it as a 2 pinion LSD). This thread has all the pertinent info, except it fails to mention that you need to grind 1/4" off both stub axles before sliding them into the differential (if you don't, the passenger side won't seal and the driver side will push the bearing in the halfshaft tube out 1/4") - The *official* 7.5" Supra LSD into a IFS diff thread.
out of the Celica Supra housing - I ended up reusing the original Celica bearings, even though they had 205k miles on them they still looked good
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0667.jpg)
Disassembled - I ended up shimming the LSD springs ~ .075" to add just a little bit more bite. Not shown, but the side gear clutch material still looked really good for the mileage on this unit
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0668.jpg)
To me, this looks like it should have steel plates splined to the side gear for better torque biasing.
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0671.jpg)
I didn't take any pics of the install and set up as that is covered in the link. I was able to get the same exact backlash as what it had using a combination of the Celica Supra shims and the shims that were in the 4runner housing. One word of caution, when I called a Toyota dealer to order a shim, they told me that the part number was good but has been discontinued.
I still need to test it out (maybe Hungry Valley this weekend as it's right up the road) and after I put a few miles on it change the oil.
edit: here's the LSD rebuild/upgrade kit: http://www.weirperformance.com/maxgriplsdkits.html
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Trekker
Radiator Mist - beat the overheat
After swapping engines I’ve had cooling problems pulling my trailer on long grades. The cooling system works fine the rest of the time in stop/go traffic or at highway speeds, I just needed a bit of extra cooling on long steep grades or in the desert. This could also work to help wash off the radiator for those who like to play in the mud (the washer motor I got really is that strong).
Hayden has a product called Rapid Cool Radiator Mist System, but it usually retails for ~$ 80 (click me-> Radiator Mist System). I built my system for $10 plus a few spare bits I already had collecting dust. It’s a pretty simple system and only took a few hours for a nice clean install. Now I won’t have to worry about desert temps or cross my fingers that the head gasket will last pulling a grade.
Here's the major components. A junkyard windshield washer motor that I swiped from a Mercedes, a “large” size universal radiator reservoir, 4’ 7/64” rubber tube, 20” 5/16” brake line - you'll also need a momentary switch and some wiring to run run the pump along with an anti-siphon valve to prevent the system from leaking down.
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/partsneeded.jpg)
I had to modify the reservoir a bit to mount nicely where I wanted. Using a heat gun I heated the bottle where I wanted it to change until the white plastic turned translucent. Then I pushed in on the corner with a block of wood and held it until the plastic cooled and hardened (cools much quicker if you run water over it).
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/25qtbottle.jpg)
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/reservoirlocation.jpg)
The spray bar needs to have a directed spray pattern so it doesn’t just shoot one solid stream at one part of the radiator. Using my mighty Dremel and a thin cut off wheel, I made 4 verticle slices in the brake line – 2 offset above centerline and 2 below centerline for more even water distribution across the radiator - if you use the heavy duty (thicker) cut off wheels, the spray may be weaker and use more water, the thin wheels keep the pressure in the spray bar up
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cuttingspraybar.jpg)
Close up shot of the slots in the spray bar - I used a pair of vice-grips to pinch the brake line closed and just for kicks soldered the end on top of that
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/sprayslots.jpg)
I mounted the spray bar in the grill behind one of the thicker horizontal sections by cutting 2 half circles and recessing it back in, this will help keep it from shifting around. I decided to use plastic zip ties to hold it in place, although a more permanent solution would be JB Weld (once you're happy with the spray pattern)
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/spraybaringrille-1.jpg)
When I run the water without the fan on, you can actually see it coming out the backside of the radiator. The pusher fan whips the water around fairly well and completely saturates the radiator. Although it shouldn't be an issue, I made sure the water didn't spray directly onto the fan motor. I timed about 40 seconds of continuous use with the 2.5qt reservoir, but figure I’ll only need to use this for 1 or 2 seconds at a time, so it should last.
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/waterspray.jpg)
Washer pumps are not self priming, so they must be located slightly below or even with the bottom of the reservoir. Because they’re mounted below the water level, you’ll need an anti-siphon check valve to prevent all the water from just leaking out constantly. These can be found on most rear washer hoses near the actual rear washer spray nozzle. Locate it as close to the spray bar as possible to prevent having to refill the entire water hose every time.
- water flow needs to go in the direction of the arrow -
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/antisiphon.jpg)
For wiring I’m running a push button momentary switch that supplies 12V to the pump. The pump ground goes to chassis. This little washer motor draws ~ 5 amps! but the biggest momentary switch I could find was 3A, as long as I'm only pressing it for a few seconds at a time there should be no issue.
That’s pretty much it. When I see the temps start to climb, I push the button for a couple seconds, wait half a minute and push the button again until the temps start to drop.
edit 6-19-2008 finished the install
finished mounting the washer motor - welded a bracket together and secured the motor to it with a hose clamp
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0782.jpg)
bent a piece of lexan to mount the momentary switch to and wired it up
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0785.jpg)
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Trekker
Re: Corax's '88 Runner
In my compulsive drive for new projects to accomplish every weekend I though I'd slap on some MSD lovin'. I already had 2 MSD 6A's, but needed the 8910EIS adapter (small red box) to make it work with Toyota's coil igniter. I got one off ebay for $20 and set out to mount everything . . .
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0595-1.jpg)
I already had the MSD Blaster 2 coil installed previously (another $3 junkyard find), but thought I'd mount it on the passenger side since everything else was getting upgraded.
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