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Trekker
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Trekker
Re: Corax's '88 Runner
For the wiring part, I decided to keep it relativel simple, I used this wiring from http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/ - easy to wire, 2 relays, uses a momentary switch that gets pushed in one direction to lock & the other to unlock. Instead of a momentary on-off-on toggle, I picked up a regular single pole double throw toggle - it doesn't have a middle "off" position, will let me use a toggle guard, and unless I'm missing something in the diagram, should work just as well as the momentary (once the limit switch goes open, the relay turns off and everything stops anyway)
soldered, assembled and bench tested with a test light instead of the locker actuator as load - just enough wire to pull both relay boards out of the box
ready to go - just have to JBWeld the connector to the box once I'm sure there are no glitches - I used my trusty dremel to scribe the connector pin-out onto the lid for future reference
the rear harness mounted up nicely using pre-existing holes in the tank bracket
I used the step drill to make a huge hole for the e-locker connector to go through and used a spare grommet I had to seal it all up
wiring run and the controller just about ready to be mounted
The only problem I ran into is that the rear diff locked but now it won't unlock electrically - the voltage is switching the way it's supposed to, so I'm thinking the actuator is either jammed or stuck on a "dead spot"
*edit* took the actuator off and found out the 3 "fingers" for the lock and unlock limit switches weren't making contact well enough, bent them out a bit and everything works perfect
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Trekker
Re: Corax's '88 Runner
I hate rust. About 4 years ago, before moving to AZ and So Cal, I fixed both wheel wells - grind, primer, bondo, primer, paint. This is just from this recent winter:
So I fixed some of that again, all rust spots were wire wheeled and primered before having some bondo thrown in. There are more big holes than I remember under that paint - I really just need to bite the bullet and get Toyota Fiberglass fenders, but shipping from the far side of Canada costs as much as the fenders themselves .
also got started on another project - time for better filtration. During a recent junkyard safari, I figured out a Subaru Forester airbox would work with a bit of tweaking.
here's the adapter I used so I can mount the VAFM to it (cut up a bit and redrilled)
all adapted, JBWelded and ready to go
ditched the cheese cone filter and installed and plumbed up the Subie box - I used 2 nutserts going into the stock battery tray to hold the bottom of the filter box in place
now, what to do with the 3" diameter hole facing the inner fender . . . .
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Trekker
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Trekker
Re: Corax's '88 Runner
Last year I got a front diff with 4.88 gears courtesy of cash-for-clunkers. I finally got around to swapping the the LSD over to the new (to me) 4.88 gears so now I have matching gears and can use 4wd again (just in time for EC4RJ, if I could actually go)
When I got the 4.88 front diff, I took the front lower crossmember that was attached and modded it up a bit with 1/4" plate so it won't get dented anymore (overkill - I should've used 1/8" but I literally have over 1/4 ton of 1/4" plate laying around)
(before I put the front skid back on)
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Trekker
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Trekker
Re: Corax's '88 Runner
I found my windshield is leaking from the passenger side lower corner. I knew it was leaking because there was a puddle on the pass. floor for the last few months whenever it rained, but I didn't know from where until the truck didn't start. Quick diag found it didn't have spark and I followed it back to the ECM, took the ECM apart and found a couple drops of water in it (windshield dripped right on it, water got in one of the empty mounting holes). That was an easy fix as earlier electronics are pretty robust - I took both sides off the ECM case, doused the internals with rubbing alcohol, swished it around a bit and after using a hair drier on it the engine started right up.
Since I can't fix the windshield right away, I sealed up the ECM a bit better. Every mounting hole and the side seams got taped. This might also help with quick dunks since the it's the top and sides that got sealed and the connectors point downwards - push an empty glass upside down into water, if the air can't go anywhere the water won't rise . . .
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yeah, yeah, no worries, I already went through the "ricer" phase and realize that there is absolutely no reason to put a spoiler on the back of a 1st gen. Not like it's gonna improve my handling at 100mph. What it does do is keep the exhaust from coming in the partially open rear window at highway speeds - I was hoping for better than that, but I'll settle for a bit of bling and minor improvements (it'll help in a few months when I swap coasts again ). There's not much improvement with the window all the way open, but there is under 50mph with it cracked 3"-4". I couldn't smell any exhaust coming from the back over 50mph.
Here's what I started with - $40 ebay 2nd gen JDM rear spoiler with peeling clear coat
I sanded a bit, but not too much - we don't need it looking too good - primered and painted it what I hoped would match the shell. Measured, marked, re-measured and drilled 4 mounting holes. Since the shell is double wall I continued the drill straight through to the interior and enlarged the inside holes so I could get the nuts onto the spoiler studs (the nuts are about 1" long and work well).
the rear mounts don't match the angle of a 1st gen exactly, so I'll probably use some fuel tank epoxy to fill in the gap (the type of epoxy that gets "kneaded" into a putty not mixed with a toothpick)
finished job, though I may yet take the heat gun to it and make it fit the shell shape a bit better in the future
here you can see the scoops that grab some of the overhead air and directs it into the back window (the orange thing in the left scoop is the connector for the 3rd brake light which I haven't wired yet)
(gratuitous poser pic after conquering the back yard grass)
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Trekker
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Trekker
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Trekker
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