ok!
ok!
For cut-off disc, I use the one's HF sells, they last the longest out of all the one's I've tested.Originally Posted by 97kurt
For flap disc, Lehigh Valley has the best bang for the buck http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/servlet/StoreFront
Walter Flap disc are by far the best, but the cost vs longeivity don't add up.
99 SR5 4Runner Highlander 5spd V6 4WD e-locker<br />Myspace<br />3rd Gen Bumper Build-up<br />1GR-FE 4.0L V-6 & RA60F 6-speed for my project vehicle<br /><br /><br />Don't Ask when I'm gonna go SAS, I'm not... I'll build a buggy first!
lookin good kurt! you using a 110v welder for your 3/16's?
sonny<br />1998 4Runner LTD...d0uble locked on 35's<br />crawlinbc.com
You bet!! Never had an issue with the hobart 140 with that thickness. I have a 30 amp circuit that is 5 feet from the breaker and that helps a ton. I've also welded a lot of 1/4" wall DOM with that welder but I always pre-heat everything thicker than 3/16".Originally Posted by d0ubledown
Anyways, my neighbor and I got the top of the bumper skinned and the winch line hole has been cut. Now begins the fun long process of welding and smoothing all the seams.
Diamond HP8 SAS / FROR Full Float Rear / DIY F&R bumper / Nitto 285s / Gen1 SC (in progress)
Diamond HP8 SAS / FROR Full Float Rear / DIY F&R bumper / Nitto 285s / Gen1 SC (in progress)
kurt,
nice dude. hey, why did u weld the main support vs making it a bolt on? I think about when i rear ended someone and the mounts twisting and deflecting and limiting the damage to the bumper and the mount
bob
HA HA thanks for the honor. Glad I can contribute to the Toy community. BTW, you can also pick up flap discs from the local welding stores they'll have a selection and I have found the discs with more flaps last alot longer, grit 80. Knock down the weld with a regular disc and do the finish work with it.Originally Posted by 97kurt
I'll have some of my friends in Carson come pick up my royalties
Nick
SHROCKWORKS<br />Design/Proto fab
x2. I learned my lesson, a couple of times.Originally Posted by Bob_98SR5
The new cross member is welded directly to the frame. And the main bumper support (2x2 3/16" angle iron) bolts to the new cross member in two spots. Then I tied in two more mounting points where the stock bumper attached to the frame.Originally Posted by Bob_98SR5
I will have it off the truck tonight and get some better pics of it.
Diamond HP8 SAS / FROR Full Float Rear / DIY F&R bumper / Nitto 285s / Gen1 SC (in progress)
makes perfect sense, kurt. i was afraid that the whole thing was welded on :eeek: