Installing White Face Gauges on a 1999 4Runner
By: Bob_98SR5
Date: 3/31/03

_________________________________________________

Parts/Tools Needed
White Face Gauges
Dremel tool with cutout accessory
Short-handled Philips head screwdriver
Can of compressed air
Socket driver
10mmcables attach to the fuel door and hood levers and are held by two Philips head screws each. If you want the extra room, then remove them.
12mm
Short-handled Philips head screwdriver
Long-handled Philips head screwdriver or cordless drill
Headlamp or flexible flashlight
X-acto knife

_________________________________________________

Summary
Before I get into the install, please note that this write up was written completely from memory and from old pictures that I took 2 years ago when I installed this. That said, here's the write up:

There are two different types of white face gauges: Replacements and Overlays. There are two different types of white face gauges: replacement gauges and overlays. Replacement gauges are typically more expensive and require that the existing gauges and needles be removed and re-calibrated---tasks that are not easy and should be done only by a professional speedometer shop. However, these gauges look more professional, especially in regards to the clarity of the icons.

Overlay gauges are exactly that: they are gauges that “over lay” over your existing gauges. They are typically much cheaper than replacement gauges, much easier to install, and as such, can save you from paying someone else for the installation. However, the main drawback is that the icons are not as sharp but a bit “blurry” in appearance when lit.

In addition to the differences in replacement gauges and overlays, the nighttime illumination represents a big factor to consider as well. Replacement gauge’s white face (background) turns black and the numbers are the only parts that are illuminated. In stark contrast, the background of the overlays turn a different color (usually indigo). Most if not all the current overlay indiglo gauges come with a switch that allows you to change the indiglo color from green to blue as well as the illumination intensity. Companies are now coming out with reverse indiglo gauges where only the numbers light up vs. the whole gauge plate lighting up. These reverse indiglo gauges are definitely much easier on the eyes at night.

Given the reasons and attributes above, my preference is for overlays. Why? Because they are typically cheaper, you can do the installation yourself, and if you get tired of them, you can remove them fairly easily. The options available for overlays are increasing by the day.

Whatever you choose, the best thing to do is to see them in person or on the manufacturer’s website. At the end of this article, see my list of manufacturers as well as my opinions of each.

The following write up is based on my installation of Initial K’s White Face Gauge overlays. As you read the write up, you will see why I’m less than pleased with their gauges and what they should do to improve their product.

Step 1: How to Remove Your Gauge Cluster
Unhook the battery connections on the battery. Also, move the seat way back or just unbolt the four bolts and remove the seat. You’ll need some room to work here.

Remove the following four 10mm bolts as shown in the picture below. Carefully detach the Lower Plastic Panel and move to the side. You will notice that there are two cables in the lower left hand corner which prevent you from entirely removing it out of your 4runner. Those cables attach to the fuel door and hood levers and are held by two phillips head screws each. If you want the extra room, then remove them.


Remove these 4 bolts as shown above


Step 2: Removing the Black Instrument Panel Trim Pieces
There are a total of four screws that hold the black plastic trim pieces onto the instrument cluster (aka "combination meter"). To remove these plastic pieces, first pop off the ignition key trim panel, and then remove the the two screws as shown below:


Pop this off


Remove this screw


and then remove this screw

Remove the two screws that covers the instrument cluster. Use a short handled philips head screwdriver for these screws. Now you are ready to remove the gauge illumination dial and the alarm LED and glass breakage sensor. See the picture below as reference:


Remove these two screws


Unplug gauge illumination dial (A) and unscrew the fastening nut. Reach behind the trim panel and unfasten the LED (B) and glass breakage sensor (C)

On the gauge illumination dial, remove the plastic dial by pulling towards you. Take your 8mm socket wrench head and unscrew the nut. Set aside in a plastic bag. If you have the factory alarm system installed, reach under the back of the alarm LED light and give it a gentle twist. The catch mechanism will release, allowing you to pull out the LED. Do the same with the glass breakage sensor.


Step 3: Removing the Cluster
There are four screws holding the Instrument Cluster. Remove those screws and set them aside. Now you are ready to unplug the connections and pull out the Instrument Cluster.

Gently wriggle the combination out. There are a total of 5 bundled clips of wires that are attached to the combination meter. Now is a good time to put on that headlamp or other source of light so you can see well and unplug them. To remove, press down on the clips and pull straight out.


Remove the 4 screws shown above


Unplug the five plug connectors here. Push down on the plug clip and pull out. It's a tight fit!

You can now pull out the Instrument Cluster.


Step 4: Removing the Plastic Glass and Black Cover
Both the black cover and the plastic glass on the instrument cluster are held onto it by clips. Detach all clips and set both sides apart.


The remove the plastic glass and the black cover by unclipping the clips. This part does not require any tools.


Step 5: Installing the Tachometer and Speedometer Gauges
For both gauges, carefully slide the factory needles through the gauge. In order to do this, you need to squeeze the gauge face a little by pinching the gauge between your fingers.


Pinch the overlays between your fingers and gently slide the needle through the hole. Lay flat on the existing gauge plates.


Here's a picture of the tach and the speedometer installed



Now here’s where you might experience some problems: On each overlay gauge plate, the two holes that surround the larger hole were not large enough to go over the factory screws that surround the tachometer and speedometer gauges. I called a local speedometer shop and they said if you completely remove the needles, a spring will release under tension and then the tachometer and speedometer will not work (or work correctly) thus, I enlarged the hole. My method was to cut 4 very small slits from the center of the hole outwards with a X-acto knife. Then I unscrewed those two screws a few turns so the screw head would be raised just off the top of the factory gauge surface. Then I gently forced the overlay gauges over the top of the screws. I did this on one gauge. After that, I simply fastened the overlay gauges over the factory gauges, tightened the screws and was ready to go. For the other gauge, I drilled and enlarged the pin holes. Note: neither methods worked well and both methods produced a slight "bubble" around the pin holes when illuminated.

Cebby (Mike) from Ultimate Yota suggested that a more cleaner method would be to use a tool called a "Step Bit". I have not tried it but it looks like it will work:



Step 6: Installing the Gauge Overlays: Temperature and Fuel Gauges
Next install the easiest of the all the gauges, the Temperature and Fuel gauges. For both gauges, remove any screws and then slide the overlays underneath their respective needles. Re-align the holes in the gauges with the white pins that protrude out. Re-fasten the screws. No pictures here, sorry!


Step 7: Cutting holes in the top of the Combination Cluster
Here's where these gauges caused me problems. In order to run the overlay wires out of the combination cluster, you must cut a hole large enough for the connector plugs to safely pass out of. Furthermore, if your tachometer and speedometer plates do not sit flush on the face plates, you might need to cut two holes out the top so that the plates and the wires can both sit flush and run wires out of the combination cluster. Unfortunately that is what I had to do.

In the following locations, cut two holes out with your dremel tool with a cutout bit (or a drill). The hole should be slightly larger in diameter than one of the gauge plugs.


Drill down from the top and create a hole. Spray compressed air to eliminate the shavings


Here is a top view of the hole

Once done, thread all the wires out of either holes and then spray compressed air throughout the entire combination meter, careful to get every single particle out of it.

Step 8: Attaching the Plugs to the Controller
Run the white gauge wires down through the holes in the Instrument panel to the controller. Ground the negative controller wire and run the positive wire through the firewall grommet. To punch a hole through the firewall grommet, take an unraveled clothes hanger, and poke a hole through the firewall rubber . Then thread the positive wire to the front of the 4runner.


Run the controller wires down through here to the controller itself


Step 9: Tapping the Parking Brake Wire and Grounding
After running the positive wire through the firewall, run it to the left front corner light. Undo the corner light by removing the top screw and pulling the light straight out. Next, tap the green parking brake wire with a 18 gauge tap and connect a blade-type connector to it.


Here's the positive wire coming out of the firewall grommet



To test the connection, I've tapped the parking light wire here with an alligator clip

Step 10: Mounting the Control and Testing the Gauges
Assemble all panels to their original configuration. Mount the control on the underside of the driver's side panel. I put mine on the left side. On the controller, flip the switch to blue and then to green. Also play with the illumination knob by turn the illumination knob from the lowest to the brightest level. If all is ok, reattach everything and take a little drive at night. You will be quite surprised at the brightness of the indiglo. I barely had mine up a ¼ of the way to this day.






Lessons Learned:
Definitely have the right tools on hand. Seems like common sense, but when you have to removed so many different kinds of bolts, screws, etc., the right tools in the right sizes will speed up this very step-intensive job.

Also, it pays to have some ziplock bags around to put the bolts/screws into and label them.

Invest in a Dremel tool with a cutout tool. Running the wires through the top of the gauges will allow the tachometer and speedometer gauges to lay flat. The holes also allow you to run the wires through the top and out through the back.