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Thread: M416 Trailer Build

  1. #21

    Re: M416 Trailer Build

    I realized (thanks to Ric) that I forgot to talk about the hitch that is needed for these trailers. They have what is called a lunette ring.





    This picture shows the upper hole where the ring can also be mounted.



    Each hole where the ring can be mounted has its own grease sert because the ring is able to swivel. Thus allowing the trailer "flex" independently of the towing vehicle. You could even roll the trailer without rolling the vehicle. There is also a spring that goes on the back that is supposed to help ease the hard stops and starts. But just a warning, this setup clangs around quite a bit. You get used to it and it is not going to come apart on you. The trailer will go anywhere you can go and you don't have to worry about it coming off.

    You will need a pintle hook and either a receiver for your hitch or a bumper with holes for the pintle to bolt to. As I still have the stock bumper I needed to get a receiver that has a plate with holes for mounting the pintle hook. They have different ones with different amount of holes so that you have some adjustment on where you mount the pintle hook. I went for a medium one that had 8 holes so I can have a little bit of adjustment. The M416 lunette ring is really thick, so you will have to get a decent sized pintle hook. I originaly got a 5ton pintle hook, it barely worked but bound up going around corners. I was able to get the trailer home at least but then I took it back and had to get a 15 ton pintle hook. It's all good now. I think a 10ton one would work but the place either had 5 or 15 ton. YOu will have to excuse the rust in the pics, as these were taken a few days after towing the trailer out to Pismo.





    These can be found at any good trailer shop and can also be found online. I suggest a local place that way you can take it back if it doesn't work, also they are very heavy so I would imagine shipping could be a bummer.
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  2. #22

    Re: M416 Trailer Build

    very very nice, thankx again for posting the pics, just another thing i want, lol
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  3. #23

    Re: M416 Trailer Build

    M416 1 Mercury Sable 0

    I got rearended by a little car today while sitting at a stop light. I didn't get hit very hard and the trailer took it like a champ. Just a couple of scratches, didn't hit the lights, and it smashed her grill in. All I could think of when I was trying to find a place to pull over, was why did I have to be towing the trailer? I could have really used a new bumper.That and "dang it I don't have my camera so I can't post pics of the carnage later". Really she was lucky that I did have the trailer, otherwise that pintle hook would have gone right through her radiator. People definately don't tailgate me when I have that hook in there. Anyways, just wanted to share that the frame on these trailers are pretty strong.
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  4. #24

    Re: M416 Trailer Build

    wow, well at least the trailer isnt hurt, and maybe she will get off her stupid phone for now on.
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  5. #25

    Re: M416 Trailer Build

    Do these things come with tailgates?
    -------------------------
    Steve
    1993 4runner, SAS, 3.0L, Auto Tranny
    2007 4runner, stock. For now.

  6. #26

    Re: M416 Trailer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood4x4
    Do these things come with tailgates?
    The military ones do not, but there are some civilian models that had tailgates. I believe they are older and are either Bantam trailers or Willys trailers. I am still debating on whether or not to cut a tailgate in. The reason for no tailgate, these are watertight (two drain plugs on the bottom) and were made to float even when loaded with 500 lbs.
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  7. #27

    Re: M416 Trailer Build

    yeppers, what Chris said, (atleast when i was in) Id really like to have a pop up camper, with that reciever hitch.
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  8. #28

    Re: M416 Trailer Build

    Not sure how I missed this thread...

    There are a couple of guys local to me building these also. I guess I need to start investigating them. Looks like a fun project.
    2010 Sequoia Limited Black - Bils UCA & Shocks, Borla Cat back, Morimoto Headlights
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  9. #29

    Re: M416 Trailer Build

    Sorry, I need to get back to this. I ran into a snag trying to find the vendors that I got some other stuff from. I'll add more pics and info soon. It has been a fun project, it is amazing, even in the bad looking shape it is in now, I always end up talking to someone about it everytime I use it.
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  10. #30

    Re: M416 Trailer Build

    My next step in getting this beast ready for the summer trip was to remedy this leaking hub.



    I wasn't sure if the bearings were bad or what. All I knew is that when driving, it would heat up and the grease would start to come out. It didn't get super hot though, so I wasn't sure what kind of grease was in there because it liquefied so easy.

    I got out my trailer manual and started dinking around with it. It didn't take me long to figure out that the brake needed to be adjusted. It only has a parking brake, but it wasn't adjusted right, so when the brake would touch a little once it was let off. Through a combo of adjusting the actual drums and the linkage of the parking brake handle, I was able to remedy the problem. Now, it free spins like it supposed to, no more heat or leaking grease.

    The next step was to tear the hubs apart and see how my bearings and races were. ONce again the free manual has a step by step instructions on how to do this. To my surprise, all of my bearings and races looked in tip top shape. All I needed to get were new grease seals, new holding washer, and new cotter pins. There is a place in Las Vegas that has the NOS grease seals but I needed them now as we were pretty close to our trip. I went to a local place, Central Coast Bearing, and they were able to find me a grease seal (TCM part # 22294TA it says it replaces 22340/410441). They could not find me a holding washer, they had a couple that were close that I bought to try but they didn't work. ONce again, I think the LV place also has these washers. I got cotter pins at the local hardware store. I know you are not supposed to reuse the holding washers that you bend over the castle nut but I was stuck and needed to get this trailer road worthy. I noticed that the new washers I bought and tried to use had tabs, you would bend a few tabs and then the next time broke those tabs off and use some of the other tabs the next time. This gave me and idea, I took my old washers, and cut the bent portions off. This way I can bend another portion of the washer to work and I don't have to worry about the old bent weak portion breaking off inside the hub. I repacked the bearings and put everything back together using the detailed instructions. I now had a road worthy trailer!

    I forgot to add that you will need a Willy's CJ2A spindle nut socket. I think it is either 2 1/16" or 2 1/8". I will try to find out.
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