looking for panhard drop braket in the range of 4 inches or so

[troyboy162]

Just my .02
I have the Sonoran Steel adjustable panhard bar along with the extended bump stops from him, I have yet to rub the filler neck and i have yet to rub the drive shaft on the gas tank.

I have seen the set up on 20005spd and another 4Runner around my area, he doesn't rub and 20005spd can speak for himself

i dont want to upset anyone but i think the sorensen set up in the rear is more about selling parts. the extended panhard bar dosnt address the messed up geometry in the suspension and then the extra long bump stops are then needed to keep it off your gas tank under extreme flex. that said, the limiting of the flex may very well help save several componets from over flex, but i havent seen issues yet nore have i read about any. id gladly take 2 more inches of flex in the rear at the expense of wearing out my cheap OME springs faster as sorenson explains.

prior to the extended bars being available he sold the drop bracket explaining how important it was to keep the stock level panhard bar position

besides im a cheapo...i dont have $400 for the sorenson bar and bump stops even if i thought they were the ticket. im saving that $400 for armor since i like to make mistakes and belly her on the rocks lol

dont get me wrong, im greatfull someone like sorenson is selling 3rd gen specific stuff but i believe he has a business plan as well as a passion for wheeling.

[Scooter25]

Troy, I'm running the Toytec drop bracket and don't seem to have any problem with it.

[Seanz0rz]

everyone has to have a business plan.

first of all, yes, technically that panhard bar should be parallel with the axle. HOWEVER, readjusting it for the increased lift, youre talking about increasing the length of the bar by... no more than 1/4 of an inch (for 4-5 inches or so of lift). so that .25 inches added to the bar forces the axle (either at complete full stuff on both tires - hard landings - or full stuff on left tire) only .25 inches to the left from what a stock bar would do.

the reason the sonoran steel bar is so expensive is because of the heavy wall tubing, the threaded bungs on either end, and other related hardware expenses. plus he must make it, which is not terribly easy. to be a viable business, he must make money off the products he makes and sells, and that money must be enough to cover the cost of materials, the "intellectual" property, and his own time put into physically making it, not to mention covering a portion of the cost of the shop, tools, etc.

now, regardless, a 4link with panhard bar is always going to move in an arc. as for the dshaft touching the gas tank, the only time that was ever a problem for me was when i landed on a rock and the vertical surface of the skid folded out, touching the dshaft under flexing. as for what you should do to correct either the length or the angle of the panhard bar, if you really dont like the sonoran steel bar, then go with the standard length drop bracket (3"?) this way at 4.5 inches of rear suspension lift, you will only be adding around 1.5 inches beyond the bracket, which only adds about .03 to the length of the bar, well with in tolerances for a 13 year old suspension...

[troyboy162]

everyone has to have a business plan.

first of all, yes, technically that panhard bar should be parallel with the axle. HOWEVER, readjusting it for the increased lift, youre talking about increasing the length of the bar by... no more than 1/4 of an inch (for 4-5 inches or so of lift). so that .25 inches added to the bar forces the axle (either at complete full stuff on both tires - hard landings - or full stuff on left tire) only .25 inches to the left from what a stock bar would do.....

dang your right . i guess i was on a slope or something when i installed my lift cause i had to crow bar my bracket over at least an inch and a half to meet the panhard bar. and then the sorenson one is threaded on both ends. i thought we were looking at an increase of a few inches or more. the swimming i get must be in the linkage slop. very good! thank you for the geometry lesson. the normal panhard drop should be fine.
scooter i should just go ahead and copy your truck completly lol. its getting closer with every part haha.

[20005spd]

besides im a cheapo...i dont have $400 for the sorenson bar and bump stops even if i thought they were the ticket. im saving that $400 for armor since i like to make mistakes and belly her on the rocks lol

get bud built skids, dont play around. draggin these trucks on the belly is how its done sometimes if you wanna play big.

[SD4runner]

If you're hitting the gas tank with your drive shaft, your bar is obviously too long. I had this problem for a long time.

If you get the adjustable, you'll be able to set it where ever you'd like. I like mine for that very reason.

[Scuba]

So you never asked me..?

Im pretty sure if I knew what I was trying to make, I could at least try..

[KZN185W]

does the toytec drop bracket needs to be welded to the existing panhard frame?

[4runfun]

yes

[sschaefer3]

Hitting the tank is all about shock length. It has nothing to do with the trac bar. A drop bracket is a very bad idea, you want to raise the axle side. Or use a longer bar.

What I have works really well. Alot of people on these boards are paid by companies or given free parts to promote the business. We don't do this. Anyone who has anything good to say about me or Sonoran Steel paid the same cost as everyone else for the part and is satisfied.

Also the bump stops when squished down are the same as stock, nothing is limited or lowered, they smash down a lot more so are taller uncompressed.

It all works, we have tested the snot out of it and fixed anything weak or problematic. The 1.2 kit is by far the best and there will never be a 1.3 as you can not make it any better.

After all if Big Johnny is happy, you could not ask for more. He shopped for this kit for 3 years or so.