Keith '88 4runner SR5 Garage Thread
Okay, so correct me if I'm wrong, I either need to solder a connection on, or I need a crimp connection, but that requires buying a special crimping tool?
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the solder connector is best -- next, I think, if you look around you might be able to find one that uses a threaded section to tighten onto the cable (not sure) -- final is the crimp on kind, no special tool required, a regular wire stripper should have the crimper you need (the two half-moon bits next to the red plastic handles)
Keith '88 4runner SR5 Garage Thread
I say get a new cable, I bought my whole setup from walcott and was VERY happy.
Got the firestick II, no ground mount, 18ft no ground cable and a heavy duty spring and like it alot.
Marc<br />96' T100 SR5 4x4<br /><br />Other rides:<br />00 Honda 416EX
Firestik disagreesOriginally Posted by corax
Source: http://www.firestik.com/FAQ.htmQ Is the length of the coax cable important?
A We find that it is very important ... especially with high performance top-loaded antennas. Your safest bet is to use 18 feet (5.5 meters) coaxial leads on all of your CB installations.
2012 Tacoma 4x4 6spd TRD, e-locker, LT265/75R16E Michelin LTX A/T2s, Stubbs HD-SKOs
2003 Taco-was K.I.A. 4/31/12-RIP
okay, cool, all the pics I saw, showed some other crimper tool, I have one of those so that's cool.
I'm definately getting a new cable for the 4runner, but I'm thinking of repairing my cable I have now for Vanna.
Doesn't the type of connection on the antenna side of your coax cable depend on how/where your antenna is mounted? For example, whether or not your mounting surface for the antenna is grounded or not.
Here is the full extent of what Firestik says about the length:
About the length: This is a testy subject with many engineering types. They have argued with us on many occasions regarding this matter. They say that if your system is set-up properly that the length of the coax is irrelevant. We agree! However, mobile installations have so many variables that a perfect set-up is the exception, not the rule. One guy has a pick-up and another has a fiberglass motorhome. One wants the antenna on the bumper, another on the hood and a third on the roof. Few people want to drill holes in their vehicle so quality grounds are always a consideration. Because of the imperfect world, we almost always recommend 18' (5.5m) when our products are used. We do so with good reason too! At 18' the voltage curve has dropped back to the zero voltage point where the cable meets the antenna which reduces the reactance within the cable itself (a null cable if you would). It has been our experience that if the antenna location makes it somewhat out of sync with its surroundings, cable lengths that are not multiples of our 18' suggestion adds to the problem. To that, our complaining experts say, "Then the antenna should be moved!" to which we say, "You tell the guy with the $30,000 vehicle that he must drill a hole in his roof so he can use a 9' cable". We solve problems in the best way we can given the boundaries that the customer establishes.
On that note, when you have 18' of coax going to a radio that is only 8' away, what should you do with the other 10'? We recommend that you serpentine it like a skein of yarn so that it is 10-14" long and tie it in the center with a wire tie then tuck it away. Do not roll it up in a tight circle as this can cause it to act like an RF choke, which often times will cause system problems.
Other ways to wreck your coax: Wear holes through it, slam it in the door a few dozen times, attempt to splice it as you would a wire going to your taillight, tie it in knots or make real sharp bends in it.
For your information, all of our Fire-Flex coaxial cables have stranded center conductors, polyvinyl insulation and bare copper shielding in the 95% range. Even though we offer some cables that are not 18', we do so for the knowledgeable installer, who knows that if a problem shows up, he must exercise the 18' recommendation. All of our mini-kits and complete kits are packed with 18' cables.
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PL-259 is the standard connector end for coax, especially to the rear of the radio itself. Though I have (rarely) seen some smaller connectors used here and there on the antenna side, PL-259 is still the standard
Ideally you want the antenna in the center of the roof. The ground plane of the vehicle is what the radio signal "pushes against" in simple terms, so you want as much of the vehicle under the antenna as possible for maximum range. The vehicle itself won't really block the signal since each wavelength is ~11 meters, you would need something > 11 meters long to muffle/block the signal (by my understanding). If you can't roof mount, try to keep at least 2/3 of the antenna above the roof line
Keith '88 4runner SR5 Garage Thread
Yeah, I know about where the antenna should be mounted, I'm talking more about what it's mounted on, i.e. is it grounded or not (like if it's mounted on a fiberglass shell, or an aluminum mount, etc..) For some reason, I was thinking there were different ways to connect on the antenna side depending on if the antenna is grounded or not, or does that not matter?
The way my mount already is, I could easily just do one of those firestick firerings and I wouldn't have to buy anything else. I may switch to a cable that has pl259's on both sides and get the corresponding antenna mount as I kind of like that connection.
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