Blazeland Long Travel

[slosurfer]

If you don't like the dual shock option don't get it. The dual shock system is a custom job and not needed to run the kit. Looking at it, the dual shock mount is the same one that would be used if you wanted to convert to a coilover. So, maybe you can't afford coilovers at the moment, so you run dual shocks w/ tbars till you can afford the coilovers. Both shocks obviously won't fit in the stock position so behind the arms makes sense (if you had one in the middle of the arm and one outside, they would have to be different lenght shocks, so the duals behind the arm makes it simpler to have the same size shocks). Also, I'm sure it's been cycled plenty of times to insure that it doesn't hit that front shock. From the pic, it doesn't look like it would hit it.

That idler arm brace looks better than some other DIY jobs I've seen and you can't blame the guy for trying to come up with other ways to make stuff. I could care less if he's mispelling stuff at this point as he's doing it all himself and trying to make it affordable. If he pays someone to proofread and do his website/take pics for him, then the price goes up. I learned a long time ago, spelling doesn't neccesarily mean much when it comes to how talented someone is with their hands.

I can tell you from looking at it and holding it in my hands, it comes across much better than what the pictures show (he also doesn't want to show too detailed of pics because someone might start trying to make the same thing). Also, you have to remember that the lower arm should take the brunt of most impacts as the lower arm is what hits the compression bumpstop. That's why most kits have a tube upper arm and not boxed, it doesn't have to be as strong as the lower arm. After seeing the kit, I'm pretty sure you'll start breaking steering and torsion bar stuff prior to anything with the upper arm.

[corax]

I'm thinking I might guinea pig this system with a set of junkyard lower arms and save mine just in case I want to go back, a $400 mistake that I can reverse wouldn't hurt that bad - we'll see how finances are in a few months after I think about it a bit.

It's the personal testimonials that are reassuring - people that had the product in their hands and saw it at work. The fact that there still isn't any video is curious.

[Obi..]

*I was just pointing out my initial impressions is all. I would rather have voiced them than not. Especially given that they are something to consider when buying something like this. Whether or not I am absolutely right isn't the goal, its to warn someone I know just in case..

[corax]

Yeah, I know - I'd rather have a bit of skepticism mixed in to temper the excitement of new low cost long travel, it'll make me be a bit more careful with it and give some food for thought.

[Obi..]

Yeah, I know - I'd rather have a bit of skepticism mixed in to temper the excitement of new low cost long travel, it'll make me be a bit more careful with it and give some food for thought.

I appreciate your understanding and appreciating it. Glad to have been the jerk?

Let me know what you ultimately decide to do, whether it be on this project or even the possible move. This way I can see if you've done this how it'll handle the trails outside of Applegate and Jackson.

[CJM]

I think its a good healthy discussion, until one of us tries it for sure we wont know-but we can speculate all day long and raise questions.

[Crinale]

@ norcal - the quote u posted right after the dual shock picture stated that the picture was of the first one that was cut out with a drill press and sawzall, and was welded by himself... it also said that the kit is now laser cut and professionally welded and powdered... i held it in my hands, and the thing was beefy... and for everyone saying they wouldnt jump it, the guy even says thats not what its meant for, its meant for some high speed washboard stuff.. although there are accounts of people jumping it and having no issues at all

[Obi..]

Corax..fyi..I saw a thread opened up in TOF and thought this explained things better. I don't even need to explain, right?
Be sure you run limit straps, oh, wait..it's supposed to be long travel, not wide track and similar travel.
"Can of Worms" rule applies here, be ready to have to modify accompanying items to fix this issue.
(*Shorter pitman/idler to compensate for geometries?) I might just pull my Losi LST out and play with the ideas, I have some material I could try and do a proportional mockup??

[Obi..]

*I probably should clarify for those w/o the experience so I don't look like it's a bash post.

What is happening in the illustration above is called bump steer and it's through the range of travel in what is considered the effective range of the steering link (s-curve movement versus a parabolic curve).

What this translates into is when the suspension is at the points of most movement it puts the stress forces incurred back into not just the arms, but the suspension and worse, the steering. In other words, you now have excess fatigue being translated into your tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms, and center link. All known issues on this generation of Toyota vehicles.

Now, add in the effect of the "Can of Worms" where you need to reinforce the rest of the system (frame points, esp at the streering box) and you begin to look at more time, labor, and materials involved which (as I hopefully made clear before) then puts you back to the point of just spending the money on a proven system in the first place, that (as I've yet so see shown otherwise) has a proven company behind it with product and business liabilities to protect them and the consumer.

Again, I'm just showing the facts and giving advise, carry on.

[AxleIke]

Just to throw in a few points:

This costs like 1500 if you buy all the stuff from him. Thats cool and all, but really, thats the cost of a low buck SAS.

If you can't jump it, whats the point?

At first I thought this was a cool product, up until the guy was advocating torsion bars over coil overs. I pointed out that this doesn't allow for use of CO's because he hasn't trimmed out the inner part of the arm, and asked if he'd be willing to do so. He replied that "torsion bars ride better and are the superior suspension component".

At that point, he lost all credibility with me, as he has obviously not done a lot with a torsion bar set up, nor suffered through the ride for very long.

Lastly, if you were to build your own, why bother with this design? It would be fairly cheap to built an LT kit like TC sells with a welder and a bender.