Need p/n for knock sensor wire harness

[jrock]

Thanks, headed over there now. Then maybe off to RC engineering(30 min from me) for the o rings to replace on injectors cuz dealer dont have them for couple days, napas=spec order 3-5 days.

[jrock]

Finally got the mani out lil while ago. fig out the back wire harness was connected to pass side of block, freeing this up allowed me to get the backend of the mani out. Did not have to take timing cover off, only 5 of 6 bolts. Then cover can be pulled back enough.

Tested the knock sen wire and thought it was bad but i tested it wrong...it actually is showing zeros for both sensors on my ohm reader=continuity=good. Pulled the knock sensors off and they showed no continuity=good. One of the knock sensors clip structure is cracked,probably from the wire pulling on it but that shld not effect it.

I really wanted it to be the wire, maybe it only happens when its hot? relieved it not a knock sensor(as far as my tests show) cuz they are expensive!

But, if its not the wire, not the knock sensors, what else would give me the knock sensor codes. They would always come right back on after clearing them. Mileage is down, not burning oil, has been driving sluggishly while ecu in the protective over retarded timing mode.

any thoughts? My good friend Doug says id better just replace everything, harness and sensors. They range at napa from $289 delphi to $159 nippondenso

so i heated up the wire hanreess w/blow dryer to see how ohmmeter tested. showed .4-.8 after couple min. Imagine this # wld go up the hotter it got ie on engine blk,oven,heat gun. So does higher # than 0 mean resistance of electron to move=bad wire?

[jrock]

Finally got some time and injector o rings to start reinstalling. So the bypass water pipe is sealed by silicone, connects to block etc...that forms a gasket.

Toyota says they use/sell "special silicone-$18 for this.

Should I just use some permatex?

[Seanz0rz]

yeah just make sure its rated for high temps on an engine. im down to using ultra copper on everything now days anyway. grey or black should do i think (cant remember the specs off the top of my head)

[MTL_4runner]

Finally got some time and injector o rings to start reinstalling. So the bypass water pipe is sealed by silicone, connects to block etc...that forms a gasket.

Toyota says they use/sell "special silicone-$18 for this.

Should I just use some permatex?

Yes, permatex works fine.
Clean the surfaces well with brake cleaner before applying it.

[jrock]

Finished the job yesterday...All went well except for breaking off the end of the back mani bolt that s/c slides onto!!!!!! My chilton manual said 160lb torque...my torgue wrench maxes out at 150 so i set it there and BANG! No that was not a gun shot....it was the nut flying away with the top of the bolt inside it. Still have not found it! Needless to say I did not use torque w. on others and nvr did in past 3 times ive removed/installed...thgt id do it "right" this time.

So Looks like ill run it that way for a while. Guessing Ill have to take the s/c off and hopefully I can just tap a new bolt in there while the mani is still installed!? lucky its not in da block.

BTW: no more CEL relating to Knock sensors..power is back!

But, it fired up and ran really lean. Produced an O2 sensor CEL...too lean etc. So I hooked up labtop and sure enough, my fuel trims were super high. Where it previously idled at say a 9.6(R4 software) it now likes a 10.2 Not sure why the drastic change?

And my knock sensor wire routes differently than MTL's, connector is on top next to 1st injector whereas his is down-left, etc.

[mastacox]

There's no way he torque spec on that bolt is 160 ft-lbs. I would say it's max 60 ft-lbs, I'll look it up in my FSM. EDIT- Yup, all of the bolts holding the air intake chamber assembly on the intake manifold are specced at 13 ft-lbs!!! It looks like they mixed up in-lbs with ft-lbs- 13 ft-lbs is approximately 160 in-lbs.

As for the lean condition, did you reset your ECU yet?

[jrock]

My chilton does say 160 in/lbs. So im most likely the idiot that did not realize the difference...torgue wrench reads "foot" on one side and "pounds on other. Then NM and MKP on other. So which one is in/lbs?
yes pulled the fuse before refiring.


Oh and what a DRAAAAG! Got the 2 knock codes again while driving to work. So was not the wire harness

time to tear it down again, this time replace sensors(even tho they tested fine w/OHM meter) and retorque everthing correctly.

[mastacox]

My chilton does say 160 in/lbs. So im most likely the idiot that did not realize the difference...torgue wrench reads "foot" on one side and "pounds on other. Then NM and MKP on other. So which one is in/lbs?

Yikes!

It sounds like your torque wrench doesn't have in-lb graduations on it. Just dial it to 13 ft-lbs and you're good.

[MTL_4runner]

Ouch, on the broken bolt. For comparison the truck's lugnuts only use 80 ft-lbs so you were lucky you just snapped the bolt and didn't have more damage than that. It pays to be careful with the torque units.

Sorry to hear you need to tear it down again, but it will certainly go alot faster this time around. I suspect the knock sensor with the broken connector will probably be your culprit. If you do buy new sensors make sure you use only (Nippon) Denso brand sensors.