Baby Beast Evolution

[AxleIke]

LOL!

[Crinale]

looks like a fun project.. youve been hiding it from us! haha

[AxleIke]

Not for too long though. Only been making progress for a month or so.

[Crinale]

ah nice.. definitely a cool project..

[AxleIke]

Progress has been good and bad this weekend.

I started off yesterday trying to bend up some tube for the skeleton of my subframe. Mistook a line in the bending grease for my actual line, and messed up 40 bucks worth of tube. Spent a bunch of time trying to figure out if it was salvageable, decided it wasn't, and then decided I didn't like the design at all anyway.

Back to the drawing board, but I was really frustrated so I decided to continue work on the front.

I got some gouging tips for the plasma, which work really well. Took off all of the welds reasonably quickly, but more importantly, without the numbing, deafening experience of the grinder. Quick work with a disk and it was all cleaned up:



Finished off the other side as well.

I also got a stand off for the plasma tip, and it works amazing. I was able to whip out some frame plates fairly quickly, touched up the edges with the belt sander, and hole sawed/step drilled some weld holes.





I only got the driver side cleaned up and drilled, the passenger side will have to wait until tomorrow.

I got this side all welded up. I'm happy with the weld penetration, as it seems really solid on both surfaces, but I'm not happy with the presentation of the welds. While I realize that the quality, and not the look, counts, I am trying hard to improve my technique. I just cannot, for the life of me, get a "stacked dimes" look. It ALWAYS comes out looking like this long blobous bead, with no stacking at all. I'm thinking it has to be the angle that I hold the gun at, because I notice on my overhead welds, they look a lot less uniform, and that has to do with the awkward position. I also think it may be that I'm moving more of a U than a C when stitching the weld, but I can't seem to get the C.

Anyway, here is the finished product:



and the weld



I also get a ton of spatter. Others I talk to get hardly any. I've found the anti-spatter spray works really well, but I can't figure out where the settings are off. I have the tip out of the cup a bit, so it maintains a good arc, the gas pressure is good, cup is kept fairly clear, and I follow the settings listed inside the machine. I've tried playing around, and don't get much difference in the spatter.

Anyway, thoughts or suggestions are welcome on the welding techniques, I'm at a bit of a loss.

[AxleIke]

Well, I did the other side today. I ran a lot of practice beads before hand. I tried a slower wire speed, as this is a 175, and with the mix I've got, I'm running the highest voltage possible. Didn't make a difference with the wire speed. Also tried a slower weld speed, and it just bubbled up and screwed up the tip.

Got onto Miller's website and saw that you can make a tighter bead with better penetration by pulling the bead, rather than pushing. Tried it, and nothing. Bead is tighter, but still not ideal. Fairly frustrated with it.

Anyway, here is the final product.



Welds:

[AxleIke]

Since I need to rework the subframe, and have been doing a ton of thinking about the suspension, I decided to start looking at the basics: wheel base and axle placement.

So, I took 3 measurements: Stock at 103 ish, 106, and 110.

The tire is on the jack to simulate ride height at my ideal height, 20" at the frame.

Here is stock for reference:



My preference is here, at 106. The pro's are that the axle is back far enough to make fenders easy enough to modify to fit the tires, and everything looks nice. Cons are frame fitment, and uptravel.

Here is where the tire sits:



As you can see, uptravel sucks, which is why this would almost necessitate frame modification:



The oil pan is going away:







Now, the other option is 110. The axle is in front of the oil pan, and the frame comes up, giving a lot more uptravel. The approach angle becomes almost 90 deg as the tires push forward of frame, though a bumper would likely stick out a bit.



The problem here is making the fenders work. It would almost require a dovenose, which would not work to keep the police off my back. I could work some tube fenders, and go for the 70 series LC look, but still, tricky. Steering also becomes a hassle here, as, even with a reverse throw box, the pitman arm is going to stick out a ways.

Anyway, any thoughts or ideas are welcome. I haven't made up my mind, and haven't thought of everything. If anyone has an idea, shout it out

[Crinale]

at 110, what about running the steering behind the axle?

also what about a compromise at 108? is there something keeping you from using that length?

[DHC6twinotter]

wow...this looks like a very cool project! It's nice to see another buildup on here. Love the 80 front axle.



I didn't know anybody besides Slee were making hi-steer arms. Good to know since Slee's hi-steer stuff is $$$$$$.

I'm looking forward to this build!

[AxleIke]

at 110, what about running the steering behind the axle?

also what about a compromise at 108? is there something keeping you from using that length?

110 just puts the axle under the highest point of the frame and in front of the oil pan, which is sweet. Steering behind is the way it is stock, so I'll have to see.