Baby Beast Evolution

[Crinale]

ah, 110 makes sense then.. what wheelbase is optimal for the trails out there? cuz i know out here if you go longer than 110 your gonna start gettin in trouble..

i thought thats how the fj80 was stock.. so you could use the fj80 steering components, then figure out where to mount the steering box..

[Seanz0rz]

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...ding-tips.html

few big things here that will effect your welds

make sure you are using the correct polarity on your welder. it reverses for flux core, and usually they are set this way from the factory.

im guessing you are using gas, so make sure your gas is turned on, and to the proper setting, 15 gph sounds right, but check your suggestions in your manual. i keep my regular set at what i need, and honestly havent looked at it in the longest time, i just know where it should be.

make sure you are getting a really good ground. the clamps that come with these welders suck

maybe slow the wire a tiny bit and make larger arcs or v's or circles, whatever your technique is. this keeps the heat on the area to allow better penetration, and it will fully cover the weld area, without piling up into a big glob mess. because of the radius on the edges of the frame, you may have to make two passes.

[Obi..]

^IIRC he' in Colorado, do you need to alter the gph at altitude, or simply switching rod type solves that?
I always weld at 1450ft +/-1 b/c that's where my mig is. I will say sometimes I have issues b/c of being a southpaw, but this is different.

**AxleIke, keep in mind in comparison your welds are cleaner than some of the oddball factory droopy-shit welds I've seen in my day.

[AxleIke]

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...ding-tips.html

few big things here that will effect your welds

make sure you are using the correct polarity on your welder. it reverses for flux core, and usually they are set this way from the factory.

im guessing you are using gas, so make sure your gas is turned on, and to the proper setting, 15 gph sounds right, but check your suggestions in your manual. i keep my regular set at what i need, and honestly havent looked at it in the longest time, i just know where it should be.

make sure you are getting a really good ground. the clamps that come with these welders suck

maybe slow the wire a tiny bit and make larger arcs or v's or circles, whatever your technique is. this keeps the heat on the area to allow better penetration, and it will fully cover the weld area, without piling up into a big glob mess. because of the radius on the edges of the frame, you may have to make two passes.

Awesome site!!! Thank you! That is exactly the kind of thing I'm looking for, as I need to see the technique. The uphill welding vids being up top there were perfect. I am going to spend some time looking there, and practice some of those techniques. Thank you again!

[AxleIke]

^IIRC he' in Colorado, do you need to alter the gph at altitude, or simply switching rod type solves that?
I always weld at 1450ft +/-1 b/c that's where my mig is. I will say sometimes I have issues b/c of being a southpaw, but this is different.

**AxleIke, keep in mind in comparison your welds are cleaner than some of the oddball factory droopy-shizzle welds I've seen in my day.

Thanks man. On the pressure settings, I've always just run 20 ish PSI for normal position, and closer to 30 for upside down welds. Its always kept the welds fairly clean.

Does the pressure affect the weld shape, or is it simply a matter of keeping the weld clean?

[Seanz0rz]

ive seen alot of people run with no gas, just forgetting to turn it on, that will cause the massive spattering, along with a poor ground.

as for what flow you need, i have no idea if that changes with altitude, but i seriously doubt it since it is only to displace the oxygen from the weld puddle.

[Obi..]

Maybe the feed is off, like something is making the wire drag b/c that should not be happening for what he has tried adjusting.

[Seanz0rz]

good point. make sure the tension on the feed roller is tight but not too tight. usually if its not right it will just not feed at all.

[AxleIke]

Ah, good suggestions. I'll check that. Maybe the roller is too loose, making it slip a bit, so still getting the wire to feed out, but slipping enough to slow it down.

[AxleIke]

So, this is my first verison of the 3link. I will have to tweak a few measurements I think, but this is where I have the axle now, and where I'm guessing the links will sit. I have to check clearance here, but for a first stab, I like the numbers.



Still have to check on the COG, but I think that is fairly close.

Its looking like 22" at the frame will have to do, though I may be able to sneak it down to 21. However, I'm looking at it, and I think a 2 piece front driveshaft may be needed. I see no way to make the driveshaft clear everything when flexing with the one piece. It also will make a belly pan much easier to install.