100k mile maint. question

[mkgarrison5]

hey guys i gotta 02 tacoma extra cab 4x4 v6 with 85k miles. she will turn over 100k miles by late summer or so and i have question for ya.. other than what i list below what should i go ahead and replace at 100k miles?? thanks guys

T-Belt
Water Pump
Thermostat (total coolant drain and refill)
upper and lower radiator hoses
All drive belts

anything else??

[bamachem]

when you do the TB & WP, go ahead and have the cam seals and crank seal replaced as well along with the TB Tensioner. another ~$50 or so in parts, about 30 min in extra labor, but saving ~$500+ and a huge headache if one of them were to fail in the next 100k miles.

also: http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...=26&topic=55.0

[pdxsteve]

good info, thanks. unlucky me as i had the water pump and t-belt replaced but did not have them do this. I hit 121k so I guess maybe the next time I change the t-belt? we'll see....


hijak on... Nice site, bye the way, guys, spent the last few years on yotatech and I hope to see this place develop and grow quickly. hijak off

[bamachem]

typically, the seals and tensioner will be OK upwards of 180k+ from what i've read online. since i was at almost 160k and wouldn't change it again for at least another 120k, i went ahead and did everything that we could while the TB and WP were off. i didn't want to have to tear it down again to replace some $10 seal and have to spend $300 in labor to get at it.

also, i got my OEM parts and then had a local independent install everything. it saved me a TON. i spent less than $500 on the whole thing, and my local toyota dealer wanted over $1000 for the same work and them supplying the parts at MSRP, of course.

[Stevo3]

Plugs and wires too, unless you did those recently. Maybe fuel filter unless you did that recently too.

Seafoam treatment wouldnt be a bad idea either. If you do that wait to change the plugs and fuel filter until after you do the seafoam. Do one can in the gas tank and id do 2 treatments in the pvc valve. which would be 1/3 of the bottle at a time. on the second time let it sit for 3+ hours or even over night.

[MTL_4runner]

I'd go ahead and also do the spark plugs (if they haven't been done in the last 25k) and the fuel filter as well. Clean the MAF with some brake cleaner and change the air filter (unless you have a reuseable). You should also pull the pan on the tranny and clean the filter screen (if you have an auto) or dain and fill on a manual. Same goes with the transfer case and front/rear difs (use synthetic in there if you have it available locally).

Seafoam the engine according to the Wiki:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...=seafoam_usage

I've been running 3 cans in 1/2 tank on vehicles that haven't been cleaned in a while then use it in the intake straight.

As for the original items you mentioned...

• upper and lower radiator hoses - Only if the hoses feel hard/brittle, show cracks or have weak spots
• All drive belts - check the belts for cracks on the ribs, if so replace

[MTL_4runner]

I'm hesitant to always recommend the seals be done on a timing belt job because I've seen cases where the mechanic damaged or did not properly install the new seal and thus you can create an issue where there was none before. Some vehicles/motors do need seals changed regularly (the old mitsibishi motors were horrible for oil leaks....they used very poor quality seals). Toyota is on the other end and I found their seals rarely ever needed changing until the motor was rebuilt (some lasting 300k miles before leaking with good oil change maintenance). So my suggestion would be to tell the mechanic to only change the seals if they are visibly weeping when you do the T-belt. Most of the time on the toyota motors, if you change your oil regularly, the seals don't need to be changed. In a rare case like overheating or if you live in a particularly hot/dry climate like AZ, you might want to just do them as preventative maintenace during a T-belt change since the seals may dry out prematurely and lose the flexibility needed to keep the oil at bay. It's good to replace the PCV valve often because if the PCV gets stuck or doesn't work properly it can force oil out the seals prematurely as well.

[bamachem]

the reason that i mentioned them is because my crank seal had a tiny weep at 158k. good to know, though!

[mkgarrison5]

yeah i have already changed the plugs, fuel filter, and mobile 1 syn in the diffs and tcase... so this is what ill tell the mechanic and or friend (probably friend bc he is cheaper lol)

replace:
T-Belt
Water Pump
Thermostat (complete coolant drain and fill)
Drive belts
Check:
Seals (cranks and the other one)
upper and lower radiator hose

sound good??
my truck doenst off road much at all.. only when hunting season rolls around but i dont mud like you guys do. i take good care of this truck bc its my primary vehicle

[gpcollen]

100k seems like a good time to do the following if they have never been done..

Brake Fluid flush
Bushing change out - sway bar, endlink, and steering rack. If I had read up on the steering rack earlier, I would have done them when I did the sway bar. One of the most cost effective PMs out there.