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Thread: Thule M.O.A.B. "Rack Slam"

  1. #1

    Thule M.O.A.B. "Rack Slam"

    *Since I don't have a better spot to put this right now it's going in here while I figure out the final writeup to consider putting into our Wiki. The reason that I say that is my plan here's to share what was done for this project elsewhere (Not just in Toyota Forums ) while UY's getting the "Exclusive Writeup" and thread linking so it'll draw some more people here.

    Pretty basic fix I did, I simply went to the hardware store and got about $20 worth of clear tube scrap and pipe clamps. ~I'm thinking that some fuel resistant line might be a better idea since the stuff we use for breather extensions lasts forever while this stuff's already showing signs of wear and tear. I also went to my old shop and picked up some "Avid CPS Hardware" which is basically a cup and cone pivot assembly and the associated bolts for attaching any current Avid disc brake setup to a bike. You can use any v-brake pivots, but then you're still stuck sourcing the bolt and washer hardware along with the two nylock nuts necessary.

    Here's how it looks as far as how I did the clamp assembly. You'l notice I threaded the cross-bars through the rack itself and skipped the mounting hardware mostly b/c that add's an additional 2-1/2" to the height of the assembly. This needed to be done for more than one reason, noise and wind drag affecting gas mileage was primary, but the second is that our garage entry's only 84" high, before the edge of the garage door hangs down. Doing this ended up giving me about 3/4"-1" of necessary clearance once I cross the breakover of the driveway allowing my to work in the garage out of the sun, erm..rain (pouring right now).


    Here's the front fairing with the spacers which essentially have, along with the "Slam", allowed me to "Tune" the airflow and fairing angle to drop the noise to a tolerable level.

    *A buddy and I are going to collect some of the high density impact foam the new Trek Madone Signature's come with and cut out some sectional pieces to try to stuff into the rack's tubes at the middle junction. My theory is that this will act as a "Dampener/Deadener" for the remaining vibration.

    Here's what I removed..



    I'll post up more info as time allows.


  2. #2

    Re: Thule M.O.A.B. "Rack Slam"

    *Spot Reserved for future info, pics, etc.

    Let me know if you guys want part #'s, better pics, etc-etc.

    ~Note to self: Figure out how to integrate a new lock and mount assembly into the base rails of the rack itself that connect back to the crossbars to keep it secure..piece of loop welded, whatever??

    ~Note to everyone else, it's garaged, and the reason for folding the hose clamp ends over is to prevent loosening, it's a cheap and easy fix you learn from the racing scene.

  3. #3

    Re: Thule M.O.A.B. "Rack Slam"

    I have the same rack and don't really like how the mounting hardware lift up the basket, like you mentioned. Lets see some day time pics!

    Erich
    -Erich
    99' Black Highlander 4runner / Garage Profile / Black P/C 8x16 Wheeler Off-Road alloy wheels / Husky floor liners / Thule MOAB Rack
    Alaskan Waterfowler Blog

  4. #4

    Re: Thule M.O.A.B. "Rack Slam"

    So, are those hose clamps load bearing now? I've seen hose clamps bust on coolant lines that have expanded. I'm not sure if I would trust a load that is being held by hose clamps.
    My signature

  5. #5

    Re: Thule M.O.A.B. "Rack Slam"

    I should also mention, the only reason this project's even carried any of my attention is because I have my old system sitting here unsold and a buddy's shop want's to find a fix because they have a lot of customers there with this exact complaint. I still have my sponsorship, so what do I care, right? I'll find a fix and likely help sell off my system, stoke a bunch of people out by helping them, then I can get the new stuff or check out Yakima's stuff and pocket the cash from the old kit's sale.

    Quote Originally Posted by slosurfer
    So, are those hose clamps load bearing now? I've seen hose clamps bust on coolant lines that have expanded. I'm not sure if I would trust a load that is being held by hose clamps.
    I got's some duct tape just in case!
    Quote Originally Posted by NorCalBorn
    ~Note to self: Figure out how to integrate a new lock and mount assembly into the base rails of the rack itself that connect back to the crossbars to keep it secure..piece of loop welded, whatever??
    Quote Originally Posted by Erich_870
    I have the same rack and don't really like how the mounting hardware lift up the basket, like you mentioned. Lets see some day time pics!
    Erich
    Pics coming as soon as I can find some time to finalize the mounting hardware, like Chris pointed out, the setup right now is just a beginning part of this project. It has 100 miles on it now in all sorts of driving and we're happy the noise and drag are gone. We just need to see how to best fabricate or modify the proper mounting hardware.

    That said, some people with the really tall towers have actually just flipped the mounting clamps upside down and found it all clears their roof by like 1/4". If you try this I highly advise laying a couple of bath towels on your roof just in case and lower it on slowly and don't cause any dents. For that matter, whenever we throw a system on a roof, we usually put towels under the feet anyhow.

    Then cones the part where I also need to compare it with the new style system Thule's offering, the 480R Rapid Traverse Foot Pack which is their in-house solution for the aerodynamics and styling.
    [img width=800 height=583]http://www.cracksandracks.com/images/Thule-480R-Traverse-Aero-3qtr.jpg[/img]



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