Help on CEL p1457 with my Honda Civic

[paulo500]

Sorry to open up an old topic (thanks to google), but I too am getting the same P1457 error on my 2002 Acura 1.7EL and im wondering it you guys have fixed the problem?
I've already changed the EVAP shut valve (VSV) attached to the charcoal canister under the car, and the code hasn't gone away. (I didn't reset it with my scan tool yet as I was hoping the computer would clear it itself now that the part is fixed.). So my next step is to maybe take off the Purge Valve located at the front of the car and spray some TB cleaner or WD-40 in there to free things up as what MTL_4runner did, and see if that works. If im still not solving the CEL problem, then ill buy the other valve located beside the charcoal canister called the 2-way Bypass solenoid valve. Apparently this is one of the main problems causing this P1457 issue according to internet searching. MTL_4runner mentions this valve, but never said if he replaced it or not. I have the Honda "Service Bulletin" infront of me (08-016) "MIL Comes On With DTC P1457" and it explains how to diagnose and replace this solenoid. You can download it here...
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ac...t_solenoid.pdf

Im located up in Ontario Canada so yes my car is subjected to the salted roads. I've got about 290K km's on it and the light only recently came on. Luckily the previous owner Krown rusted proofed it most of its life, so it doesn't look too bad. The screws and bolts around the EVAP system were rusted but a good shot of PB blaster really helped. Since the CEL light came on, my gas mileage has decreased quite a bit....about 150-200 km per tank!! Not sure if it pure coincidence or what. I've checked the sparkplugs and air filter...all is good...

I'll write back with updates, perhaps it will help someone else who is experiencing the same issue. Thanks to MTL_4runner for his updates in the past on this issue... Very detailed which is hard to find on the net these days. Hopefully he chimes in and gives me an update on his car. Perhaps he's already got rid of it! lol

[MTL_4runner]

paulo500, I responded to your PM but bottom line is that I did change the VSV but I never changed the purge valve, bypass valve or the EVAP canister, but my hunch is that that canister (in rear) or the bypass valve (in rear) was likely the issue so I would change those first and then change the purge valve (at motor) if the CEL doesn't stay out. I suggest to change both the EVAP canister and the bypass valve at the same time because often if the bypass malfunctioned for any period of time, it will oversaturate the EVAP cannister to the point where it becomes unusable (ie won't readily absorb fuel vapors) and sets off the CEL again.

I did use the seafoam and it helped the MPG, but did nothing for the OBD code.
Also if you have any mileage on your car, change your plugs (even the platinum plugs do wear over time).

[paulo500]

Thanks! Item 11 from your first image is the part i changed myself (VSV).
So it's been exactly one week since i changed the VSV, and i've been driving into the city every day (100km's highway commute, round trip each time). I was hoping the light would finally switch off after the CEL detected my new part and liked what it saw...but...nothing.
TODAY (Saturday), i was driving north to another city along the major highway(40 minute trip one way), and guess what?!...CEL switches OFF!!! I didn't think it would take this long for the system to run it's tests?...I guess so!
So for now, after knocking on every piece of wood i came across, im assuming this is fixed. I feel better knowing that i didn't have to clear the code with a scan tool, as I was hoping the car would do that after finding no fault. I filled up with gas and im hoping fuel mileage will now get better. I might be dreaming, but when i got home, the fuel needle gauge was still above the "F" mark and at about 60km on the trip-odometer....I can usually get about 100km's before the needle touched the "F" mark back when mileage was good...(a couple months ago). Since the CEL issue, i was probably getting 50km's by the time i got to "F". So im keeping my fingers crossed.

I actually picked up a set of NGK iridium plugs at Canadian Tire yesterday. (They are on sale for $16/pair this week). Supposedly better conductivity than Platinum...

Regarding the Seafoam, how did you apply it to the car? Vacuum hose? Oil? Fuel tank? I've used it on our Jetta through the vacuum hose which worked well (great youtube videos)...but i can't find the best place to do this on our civic 1.7 engines using the vacuum hose method.

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Problem #2...SRS light. This has been on for a few years. (Yes i know it means my airbag system is compromised). I know it's the driver side seat belt buckle sensor...So i've got an appointment with acura on Monday to re-diagnose and fix...for free (hopefully...wink wink)

Problem #3...A/C not working. Im really not concerned with this one right now, as its the winter and all, but i hate having things "broken" in the back of my mind. Previous owner had it scanned and its the sensor on top of the compressor... Not sure if its an easy fix as apparently i have to remove the alternator and some pulley...Hmmmm

I'll post back if i have any issues with my EVAP again. Or ill hopefully post back in a few weeks to confirm the fix.

[MTL_4runner]

paulo500, glad to hear your CEL went off but I can tell you that mine will switch on and off depending on being driven on the highway or city (since highway the purge valve opens and pulls a vacuum on the EVAP canister). Usually if I fill up and then drive around town the CEL will come back on again. I'm pretty sure one of those three items I mentioned above will fix it but it just hasn't been a priority lately. Yours likely took so long because your EVAP cannister was totally saturated, then after highway driving it may have come back within spec for absorbtion of fuel vapors. Hard to say but you'll be able to tell after a few more fillups though.

I hate to say this but I don't really suggest the CT irridium plugs over the stock platinums. My suggestion is to just get them at the Honda/Acura dealer to ensure best fuel economy.

I don't like to add seafoam via vacuum hose (I've seen people damage their motors this way), I prefer to add it to the gas tank and drive it clean. I usually add 1 can of seafoam to 1/4 tank of gas (or 2 cans for 1/2 tank) and drive it until empty then fill up on high test fuel after.

The other problems you mentioned I can definately help you with but you should put them into separate threads so this one stays true to the subject and doesn't have too many different conversations going on at once. Just alot cleaner and easier to read that way.

[paulo500]

I agree, i didn't want to start adding more problems to this P1457 thread. lol

I have been researching the sparkplugs for our cars, and I don't see any reason to buy the stealership sparkplugs "Denso" at $25 a pop. Supposedly they are just the double platinum. I know our honda's always like NGK's so i don't feel bad putting them in. Surprisingly the Sparkplug book at CT didn't mention NGK v-power copper plugs...just the platinum and iridiums.

Crossing my fingers with the CEL. Definitely my next purchase is the bi-pass valve (item 15 in the first image). $120 cdn...but visually easier to get at than the VSV was. You said it seemed to be fixed after you cleaned out the Purge valve at the front, so im hoping that since my CEL went out on it's own after just replacing the VSV, that my issue is fixed...We'll see.
Im really hoping this fixes my fuel mileage. I calculated that if this keeps up, im out about $500 per year on fuel costs. Thats big money!

[MTL_4runner]

Crossing my fingers with the CEL. Definitely my next purchase is the bi-pass valve (item 15 in the first image). $120 cdn...but visually easier to get at than the VSV was. You said it seemed to be fixed after you cleaned out the Purge valve at the front, so im hoping that since my CEL went out on it's own after just replacing the VSV, that my issue is fixed...We'll see.
Im really hoping this fixes my fuel mileage. I calculated that if this keeps up, im out about $500 per year on fuel costs. Thats big money!

Worst case, fixing those three items will certainly guarantee a solution. Canada is such a ripoff for parts, in the US, $150 would get you the EVAP canister, the bypass valve AND the purge valve. If you are near the border with the US, then use www.kinek.com to find a US location to ship to and get your parts at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/ alot cheaper than up north.

The NGK plugs are fine, but I hesitate to use the iridiums as I've seen some mixed results.
The OEM spark plugs are alot cheaper down there too so personally I'd add that to my order as well.

[paulo500]

Alright, well its been about 7 months since the Evap canister replacement and I have to say that the problem is fixed! Knock on wood! Been through some of the coldest winter days, and right now, hottest summer and the P1457 is history. Fuel economy did increase slightly right after replacement. Hard to gauge it because it was so frickin cold at the time. Thinking of routing my factory air intake port closer to a heat source during colder winter months as warmer air severely affect mileage.

Been getting the P0401 error (EGR insufficient flow) more and more now and i've removed the egr valve and cleaned it out as best i could. Not really too concerned as im getting best ever fuel mileage on this 310,000km engine. Perhaps ill dump some seafoam down the tank and see what happens.

The only thing is i need an emission's test soon, so the CEL cant be on. If I cant fix it, ill clear the code just as i park the car for the test.

[MTL_4runner]

Just wanted to follow up as well. I finally spent the money to replace the EVAP canister, purge valve and the bypass valve for around $170 total parts (thanks to Majestic Honda). Happy to say that I too have yet to see the P1457 code return so I'd consider this pretty much case closed. Paulo, glad to see you got yours fixed too!