Engine Removal and Install Tips/Tricks

[ubermoto]

Howdy folks,

I'll be pulling the 3.4L V-6 out of our 3rd gen 4Runner in the next week. This will be the first engine I've pulled EVER! Our 4Runner is a 4x4 and has a manual transmission.

I have the FSM (actually it's the FSM for the Tacoma - I do have a PDF of the 4Runner manual) and will be folllowing the instructions closely, but it's a little bit vague on a few points. Any tips or tricks in general or for the 3G 4Runner specifically are greatly appreciated.


Mainly I'm curious if I'd be better off completely removing the transmission or leaving it in place. I suppose it would be a little easier to re-install the engine if the Tranny were out of the way. But that's extra work and I'm short on time. Maybe removing the tranny completely will save time and frustration in the long run?

I've read that whenever you remove the transmission, the top two bolts on the bellhousing can be very tough to access, but are doable with a couple feet of extensions and a swivel socket or u-joint. To minimize the angle of the swivel/u-joint, your driver has to be way back, like at the back end of the transmission.

If you leave the transmission in, do you need to loosen the rear engine mount to allow the trans a little more play?

A mechanic friend who works on Toys suggests leaving the transmission in. He said once you get the engine up on the hoist it will likely raise the tranny an inch or two before they separate. Have the transmission jack ready and waiting for this so it doesn't fall on the front differential

The same mechanic gave a tip for the install, you should have the tranny in neutral and you can rotate the crank *slightly* like 1/8" at a time to get the clutch and tranny to mesh.

It seems like I read something about dowels that align the trans and the engine, but the FSM never mentions them. Does anybody know how many and where they are at?


And to top it off it just started snowing... I need a heated garage!!!

Cheers, :popcorn:

Jeremy

[Scuba]

Well seeing as how I just did a clutch on my truck (2.7) Ill offer some advice but take it with a grain of salt..

The ttora resident 2.7 clutch guru suggested 36" of extension to get to the top upper bell housing bolts, I got away with 16" of extension, a swivel joint and a short 17M

The dowels you've read about, on my 2.7 there were 2 or 3. I don't believe those will even start sliding into each other until after the trans input slides into the pilot bearing ( that was the toughest part on my clutch job, getting the input to slide into the PB)

That's roughly all the advice I have, sorry I can't be of greater help but I'm sure others will..
Good luck!

[MTL_4runner]

Howdy folks,

I'll be pulling the 3.4L V-6 out of our 3rd gen 4Runner in the next week. This will be the first engine I've pulled EVER! Our 4Runner is a 4x4 and has a manual transmission.

Pulling an engine is very doable for most weekend warriors with some mechanical inclination. Just take your time and you should have no problem swapping motors on the 4runner.

I have the FSM (actually it's the FSM for the Tacoma - I do have a PDF of the 4Runner manual) and will be folllowing the instructions closely, but it's a little bit vague on a few points. Any tips or tricks in general or for the 3G 4Runner specifically are greatly appreciated.


Mainly I'm curious if I'd be better off completely removing the transmission or leaving it in place. I suppose it would be a little easier to re-install the engine if the Tranny were out of the way. But that's extra work and I'm short on time. Maybe removing the tranny completely will save time and frustration in the long run?

No, leave the transmission in place, it will be alot of extra work to remove it (for basically no reason).

I've read that whenever you remove the transmission, the top two bolts on the bellhousing can be very tough to access, but are doable with a couple feet of extensions and a swivel socket or u-joint. To minimize the angle of the swivel/u-joint, your driver has to be way back, like at the back end of the transmission.

Yes, those can be tough to reach but if you can get 24" of extensions, you'll be able to reach them fine. Make sure you have a good set of swivel sockets (impact ones are best) handy, they will more than pay for themselves by the end of the job.

If you leave the transmission in, do you need to loosen the rear engine mount to allow the trans a little more play?

No, the mount at the transmission will pivot enough to get the engine out fine.

A mechanic friend who works on Toys suggests leaving the transmission in. He said once you get the engine up on the hoist it will likely raise the tranny an inch or two before they separate. Have the transmission jack ready and waiting for this so it doesn't fall on the front differential

Your friend is exactly right. I just used a floor jack and a 2x4 to hold the tranny up while pulling the motor out with the engine crane.

The same mechanic gave a tip for the install, you should have the tranny in neutral and you can rotate the crank *slightly* like 1/8" at a time to get the clutch and tranny to mesh.

Again good advice from your friend....make sure you buy him a case of his favorite beverage to keep the good advice flowing. ;)

It seems like I read something about dowels that align the trans and the engine, but the FSM never mentions them. Does anybody know how many and where they are at?


There are 2 alignment pins on the each side of the transmission bellhousing. They should not be engaged until after the clutch splines and the pilot bearing have lined up properly (hence the tranny being in neutral helps during this process).

And to top it off it just started snowing... I need a heated garage!!!

Cheers, :popcorn:

Jeremy


See responses in red above.

[ubermoto]

Thanks Jamie. You clarified a few things. Much appreciated!

Also, I just ordered a set of swivel sockets.

Cheers, :drink:

Jeremy

[BruceTS]

Definately leave the tranny in place, but put a jack underneath it after you remove the bolts holding it to the engine. Then jack up the tranny til it touches the body, this will give a bit of extra angle to get the engine out easier. No need to loosen the rear tranny mount.

[Lee]

i used a harbor freight trans jack which had a ratchet strap on the jack itself

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39178&xcamp=google&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&zmam=33951326&zmas=12&zmac=112&zmap=39178

[CJM]

If you cant afford a trans jack, a good quality and HD floorjack with a 4x4 mounted to it will do the trick. BTDT..

[BruceTS]

I just use a bottle jack......

[CJM]

I just use a bottle jack......

Works well too. I happen to have a 3.5 ton longer than usual reach jack I like to use for alot of stuff.

[ubermoto]

Thanks for the tips guys!

Here's a good tip I got over on Yotatech courtesy of Mt_Goat (aka Doug):

Buy a couple bolts with the same thread as the transmission mounting bolts (I believe they are M12x1.25 - feel free to chime in with the correct thread/size). Cut the head off the bolt and cut a slot into that end for a flat-head screwdriver. When you are ready to install the engine, screw two of these 'alignment dowels' into the rear of the engine. That will help you line up the engine/trans. Then once they are mated up and you have a few of the other bolts installed, you can back them out with a screwdriver. Here's a pic:

http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/39596/2809326610042310107S600x600Q85.jpg

[BruceTS]

actually those would make it harder for me to install an engine, simply keeping the angle on the jacked tranny will be enough.

[MTL_4runner]

actually those would make it harder for me to install an engine, simply keeping the angle on the jacked tranny will be enough.


X2

I agree with Bruce. Don't bother with those at all. When you've gotten the angle between the engine and the tranny correct (you want the front end of the tranny up maybe 2-3 degrees so the engine is off the mounts and can be manipulated by hand) the parts will just slide together. Then you rotate the engine to orient the dowel pins to align with the transmission. Once all that is done, you start a bolt on either side of the belhousing and tighten them to pull the two parts together.

[ubermoto]

Thanks guys,

Here's another question. The FSM doesn't say anything about removing the A/C compressor... I'm wondering if I should remove the whole bracket from the block prior to engine removal or should I leave it attached to the block and disconnect all the hoses? I've never messed with A/C stuff before...

Thanks! :drink:

Jeremy

[mastacox]

Definitely just unbolt the compressor from the engine. If you disconnect the hoses you will depressurize your AC system and it won't work until you get it recharged, which can get pricey.

[MTL_4runner]

Definitely just unbolt the compressor from the engine. If you disconnect the hoses you will depressurize your AC system and it won't work until you get it recharged, which can get pricey.


X2

Do not unhook the AC lines ever at home unless you've had a recovery machine evacuate all the refrigerant. Besides, it's not needed to pull this engine. Just remove the 4 bolts holding the AC compressor to the bracket and tie it out of the way with some heavy cord or coat hanger wire. It can be helpful to remove the AC bracket from the engine block to give you more access to the engine mounts on the passenger side.

[ubermoto]

OK Guys, I'm picking up the engine today and will be doing the swap tomorrow. Hopefully I'll be done tomorrow! I'm off work through Sunday, so I have a few days to tackle it if I get delayed or stumped by something. My wife volunteered to take pics to document the ordeal, so hopefully I'll have some to share later on!

Cheers, :drink:

Jeremy

P.S. For those of you in the Denver metro area, I highly recommend Jesse of Affordable Toyota and Lexus Repair. Former Toyota mechanic who has his own shop now: www.ATLR.net (http://www.ATLR.net) I'm buying the engine from him and he's hooking me up with all the extra parts (Toyota OEM Timing Belt, Water Pump, etc.) at cost! Great guy! :thumbup:

[ubermoto]

Got the engine. It's from a 2WD California truck with 82,000 miles on it. It's now mounted to an engine stand in the garage awaiting the parts swap. Will dive into that tomorrow morning!

[ubermoto]

Well guys, the saga continues... Not wanting to deviate from my standard 'MO' it's taking alot longer than I had originally hoped. I did finally get the engine out of the 4Runner and now I'm starting to swap everything over... The engine is from a 2WD vehicle, so I get to swap the oil pan too! Yay! :roll:

One small snafu when I pulled the existing engine though. I hadn't unplugged the ADD wire. That quickly got yanked out of its connector when I was hoisting the engine. See attached photo.

Anybody have ideas on how to fix this? I'm not even sure which wire goes to which side. One wire is green with black, the other is green with red. Hopefully the wires under the loom on the other side of the connector are the same. Probably not though. Is there a wiring diagram available online somewhere???

Thanks guys.

Jeremy

[CJM]

What I would do is see if you can take apart the connector. Usually they have tabs that the wire was soldered too. Once you remove the tabs that were inside it you can solder them back on and put it back together.

You could do crimp on waterproof connectors if the end that fit over has tabs that can be plugged in, in that manner. Ive been there and done it before.

If all else fails you could get another connector and then figure otu what goes to what and do crimp or solder the wires together obviously. Thats a fairly common plug on these trucks iirc and any one with the proper head would do.
Im sorry I dont know which goes where tho.

[ubermoto]

Thanks Marc,

With a little patience, some small tools, and a lot of luck, I got the connector apart without breaking it!

Now I just gotta figure out which wire goes where. With any luck, the wires on the other side of the connector will be the same color. Will check it in the morning... Fingers crossed!

Still would be nice to locate a wiring diagram though. I'm sure it will come in handy in the future.

Cheers, :drink:

Jeremy

[ubermoto]

found the wiring harness for the 2002 here:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/0394wd.pdf

But I haven't been able to locate the connector yet...

[MTL_4runner]

I would go out and take a pic for you of the connector on mine but it's snowing like crazy outside right now. I'm not entirely sure it matters which side the wires go on because that connector should be for the light to indicate the ADD is engaged/disengaged (basically just a simple on/off switch for the dash light). Also make sure to prep the tabs and solder them well (see pic) then crimp the insulated part of the wire after it cools before final reassembly of the connector. Hopefully someone in a kinder climate could post a pic but if you don't have it solved by tomorrow night I'll try to get a pic for you.

[CJM]

Your welcome Jeremy.

[ubermoto]

Thanks for the offer Jamie. I checked this morning and the wires on the other side of the connector appear to be the same colors! Sweet!

Jeremy

[ubermoto]

Here's a quick update...

Got the engine in, but not bolted down just yet. Just ran out of daylight.

I skipped the dowels.

I did jack up the rear axle and put the wheels on 4" blocks to tip the whole rig forward. That seemed to help with the alignment.

Just took getting the engine in about the right place and jiggling and prying and twisting back and forth.

Forecast is for snow tomorrow, so it may be a couple days before I get it fired up, but it should be pretty easy stuff from here.

Cheers, :drink:

Jeremy

[CJM]

Ouch, cold out there! I vowed to myself when I finally can own a home that it have a garage large enough to work on stuff and park stuff or I will build one. Im thinking a decent sized garage/barn would work well :)

Looks like its coming along pretty good, hope you get it finished before it snows.

[ubermoto]

Here's a few things I've learned in this project so far:

1) Make sure you unplug the ADD wire before you start picking the engine at all. The FSM doesn't mention this at all and I yanked the wires right out of the plug. It wasn't a big deal since I know how to solder, but was just another hurdle.

2) There are like four or five connections back to the tranny/exhaust that have to be undone. Mine has a manual transmission - auto trannys may have more...

3) The engine/trans mating bolts are M12x1.25 if you need some to mount to the engine stand or to make the dowels. They take a 17mm socket. Swivels/extensions work great from under the truck.

4) If you have a chance at all, take the truck to the carwash and give the engine compartment and undercarriage a good wash. In my case, I didn't have the option since it was delivered to our driveway by the tow truck. There was a bunch of mud and junk leftover from my hunting trip that kept falling into my eyes whenever I had to crawl under the truck. Not much fun... Anyway, at least the head gasket didn't blow when I was up in the high country. I wonder if State Farm would have covered that tow bill... =)

5) I had the front tires up on 3" blocks to make more room to slide under the rig on the creeper. Once I had the engine on the cherry picker and the front suspension relaxed, I realized that the front grill was too high to clear the oil pan. So I had to leave the engine suspended while I hastily jacked up the front end to remove the blocks and set it back down. It's better to have the back end up on blocks if you need clearance (both under the rig and over the front grill...

6) The 2-ton engine crane which I borrowed from a friend came from Harbor Freight. It worked just fine. My experience with Harbor Freight tools is that yes, they are Chinese made tools and the fit/finish isn't so great, but for brute force tools that you don't rely on to make a living, they work just fine.

7) The next time you're in the market for a house, make sure it has a nice big garage!!!

Hope this helps somebody else considering a similar project. As long as you are somewhat mechanically inclined, have patience to make sure you get the job done right and have the help of other members of this forum, you can usually figure the stuff out.

Cheers, :drink:

Jeremy