Engine Removal and Install Tips/Tricks

[ubermoto]

Howdy folks,

I'll be pulling the 3.4L V-6 out of our 3rd gen 4Runner in the next week. This will be the first engine I've pulled EVER! Our 4Runner is a 4x4 and has a manual transmission.

I have the FSM (actually it's the FSM for the Tacoma - I do have a PDF of the 4Runner manual) and will be folllowing the instructions closely, but it's a little bit vague on a few points. Any tips or tricks in general or for the 3G 4Runner specifically are greatly appreciated.

• Mainly I'm curious if I'd be better off completely removing the transmission or leaving it in place. I suppose it would be a little easier to re-install the engine if the Tranny were out of the way. But that's extra work and I'm short on time. Maybe removing the tranny completely will save time and frustration in the long run?
  
• I've read that whenever you remove the transmission, the top two bolts on the bellhousing can be very tough to access, but are doable with a couple feet of extensions and a swivel socket or u-joint. To minimize the angle of the swivel/u-joint, your driver has to be way back, like at the back end of the transmission.
  
• If you leave the transmission in, do you need to loosen the rear engine mount to allow the trans a little more play?
  
• A mechanic friend who works on Toys suggests leaving the transmission in. He said once you get the engine up on the hoist it will likely raise the tranny an inch or two before they separate. Have the transmission jack ready and waiting for this so it doesn't fall on the front differential
  
• The same mechanic gave a tip for the install, you should have the tranny in neutral and you can rotate the crank *slightly* like 1/8" at a time to get the clutch and tranny to mesh.
  
• It seems like I read something about dowels that align the trans and the engine, but the FSM never mentions them. Does anybody know how many and where they are at?

And to top it off it just started snowing... I need a heated garage!!!

Cheers,

Jeremy

[Scuba]

Well seeing as how I just did a clutch on my truck (2.7) Ill offer some advice but take it with a grain of salt..

The ttora resident 2.7 clutch guru suggested 36" of extension to get to the top upper bell housing bolts, I got away with 16" of extension, a swivel joint and a short 17M

The dowels you've read about, on my 2.7 there were 2 or 3. I don't believe those will even start sliding into each other until after the trans input slides into the pilot bearing ( that was the toughest part on my clutch job, getting the input to slide into the PB)

That's roughly all the advice I have, sorry I can't be of greater help but I'm sure others will..
Good luck!

[MTL_4runner]

Howdy folks,

I'll be pulling the 3.4L V-6 out of our 3rd gen 4Runner in the next week. This will be the first engine I've pulled EVER! Our 4Runner is a 4x4 and has a manual transmission.

Pulling an engine is very doable for most weekend warriors with some mechanical inclination. Just take your time and you should have no problem swapping motors on the 4runner.

I have the FSM (actually it's the FSM for the Tacoma - I do have a PDF of the 4Runner manual) and will be folllowing the instructions closely, but it's a little bit vague on a few points. Any tips or tricks in general or for the 3G 4Runner specifically are greatly appreciated.

• Mainly I'm curious if I'd be better off completely removing the transmission or leaving it in place. I suppose it would be a little easier to re-install the engine if the Tranny were out of the way. But that's extra work and I'm short on time. Maybe removing the tranny completely will save time and frustration in the long run?

No, leave the transmission in place, it will be alot of extra work to remove it (for basically no reason).

• I've read that whenever you remove the transmission, the top two bolts on the bellhousing can be very tough to access, but are doable with a couple feet of extensions and a swivel socket or u-joint. To minimize the angle of the swivel/u-joint, your driver has to be way back, like at the back end of the transmission.

Yes, those can be tough to reach but if you can get 24" of extensions, you'll be able to reach them fine. Make sure you have a good set of swivel sockets (impact ones are best) handy, they will more than pay for themselves by the end of the job.

• If you leave the transmission in, do you need to loosen the rear engine mount to allow the trans a little more play?

No, the mount at the transmission will pivot enough to get the engine out fine.

• A mechanic friend who works on Toys suggests leaving the transmission in. He said once you get the engine up on the hoist it will likely raise the tranny an inch or two before they separate. Have the transmission jack ready and waiting for this so it doesn't fall on the front differential

Your friend is exactly right. I just used a floor jack and a 2x4 to hold the tranny up while pulling the motor out with the engine crane.

• The same mechanic gave a tip for the install, you should have the tranny in neutral and you can rotate the crank *slightly* like 1/8" at a time to get the clutch and tranny to mesh.

Again good advice from your friend....make sure you buy him a case of his favorite beverage to keep the good advice flowing.

• It seems like I read something about dowels that align the trans and the engine, but the FSM never mentions them. Does anybody know how many and where they are at?

There are 2 alignment pins on the each side of the transmission bellhousing. They should not be engaged until after the clutch splines and the pilot bearing have lined up properly (hence the tranny being in neutral helps during this process).

And to top it off it just started snowing... I need a heated garage!!!

Cheers,

Jeremy

See responses in red above.

[ubermoto]

Thanks Jamie. You clarified a few things. Much appreciated!

Also, I just ordered a set of swivel sockets.

Cheers,

Jeremy

[BruceTS]

Definately leave the tranny in place, but put a jack underneath it after you remove the bolts holding it to the engine. Then jack up the tranny til it touches the body, this will give a bit of extra angle to get the engine out easier. No need to loosen the rear tranny mount.

[Lee]

i used a harbor freight trans jack which had a ratchet strap on the jack itself

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...112&zmap=39178

[CJM]

If you cant afford a trans jack, a good quality and HD floorjack with a 4x4 mounted to it will do the trick. BTDT..

[BruceTS]

I just use a bottle jack......

[CJM]

I just use a bottle jack......

Works well too. I happen to have a 3.5 ton longer than usual reach jack I like to use for alot of stuff.

[ubermoto]

Thanks for the tips guys!

Here's a good tip I got over on Yotatech courtesy of Mt_Goat (aka Doug):

Buy a couple bolts with the same thread as the transmission mounting bolts (I believe they are M12x1.25 - feel free to chime in with the correct thread/size). Cut the head off the bolt and cut a slot into that end for a flat-head screwdriver. When you are ready to install the engine, screw two of these 'alignment dowels' into the rear of the engine. That will help you line up the engine/trans. Then once they are mated up and you have a few of the other bolts installed, you can back them out with a screwdriver. Here's a pic: