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Thread: Project Headgasket (finally)

  1. #1

    Project Headgasket (finally)

    So, after a little over a year, I am finally going to dive into my headgasket repair. I'm looking over the fsm now and will probably start tearing down today (work is slow right now). I have a few questions right off the bat, and I know I will have more questions as I go along.

    1. Parts list?
    I was thinking of getting this gasket kit from Parts Dinosaur, thoughts? http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product122.html

    What about their head bolt kit? Any good or look for something else? http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product248.html

    I did the timing belt/water pump stuff about 30,000 miles ago, so I will probably be replacing some of those as well.

    Anything I am not thinking of?

    2. Fluid question... I think I have very minimal fluid mixing (oil and coolant), what do I do about cleaning it out? I know I will drain everything to do the repair, but what steps are needed to clean everything out?

    3. Any tips, tricks, links that might help me would be greatly appreciated.

    I plan on using tons of baggies, blue tape, and pictures. Everything will be getting tagged and bagged (especially since I don't even have parts yet).



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  2. #2

    Re: Project Headgasket (finally)

    Knock Sensor and vac lines also. Possibly also the intake tube (rubber) accordian that goes from the airbox to the intake. It tends to crack along the 6-o-clock position. As long as you're gonna be in there, same for the PITA hose at the back of the valley where the vac line valves, etc are.

    Far better to just go ahead and spend a little on them since you don't want to get it all done to find out 3000 miles down the road one died.

    Also plan on needing replacement injector harness clips. THey tend to disintegrate when removed after being that old. There's an OE# for them, you get the harness w/ the connectors, just pop the pin clip out so you can remove the new pins and just re-pin your's in.

  3. #3
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    Re: Project Headgasket (finally)

    Hopefully your cam gear bolts are not as tight as mine were, I thought i was gonna break something before that bolt came loose. My advice, loosen those bolts (you will probably need a VERY heavy duty impact, or a long cheater bar) before you pull the timing belt.

    Also, there is no reason to not replace the timing belt and water pump since you will be in there anyway, and they are cheap. Otherwise, good luck! :P

    I know I already said this on facebook, but if you come across anything you need, I still have my 91 and there are a few good parts still in the engine.
    - Kevin

    2018 Taco TRD Pro - 2.5" lift, 33" tires, everything else stock.
    2012 Triumph Tiger XC - Stock

  4. #4

    Re: Project Headgasket (finally)

    grrrrr... need to find my impact gun! The bolt for the power steering pulley isn't reverse thread is it? Snapped my strap wrench trying to get it off!

    also, where the fuck and how the fuck do you get to the block coolant drain bolt?
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  5. #5

    Re: Project Headgasket (finally)

    not a lot of help Stover, but as far as the fluid drain it all, new cheap oil, and just water in the radiator, then drive it a 100 miles or so, and change again, this time put in nice oil, and coolant.
    -Chris
    2004 DoubleCab Tacoma PreRunner: 3.4 V6-Auto, DD/Tow Rig
    1997 Lexus LX450: 4.5 I6-Auto, DD
    1984 4Runner: 22R-5 speed, 14 inch bob, 5.29's, lincoln locked rear, lockright front, Armored and Caged by Mossyrocks Fabrication, total disregard for body damage.
    1997 4Runner: GONE
    1996 FZJ80 Land Cruiser: GONE

  6. #6

    Re: Project Headgasket (finally)

    Chris,
    The kit looks decent, I will look at work tomorrow to make sure its not missing anything.

    Def go ahead and replace the belt and pump, your in there so might as well.

    Rocko Chris hit the nail on the head for fluids.
    Throw in some cheap oil and just water and get it running, then drain all and refill.
    I personally would do it twice, but I am one who goes overboard with things like that.

    You pretty much got the process down it looks like, just take your time, your not flat rating this job so no need to rush, go over all your vac lines and make sure none of them need replacing, I am already have a few rolls of vac lines sitting waiting to be put on the Runner.

    Also someone mentioned the Knock sensor harness, your def going to want that, it will break, they always do, the 3.0 and the 3.4


  7. #7

    Re: Project Headgasket (finally)

    Awesome, thanks for the tips!

    Definitely trying to take it slow. It's the little things that piss me off, like wasting tons of time trying to find the block coolant plug (only to just pull the lower drain hose so I could get the radiator out), and the stupid power steering pulley bolt that won't come undone. Seriously, I snapped the strap on my strap wrench trying to undo that bolt! Hoping that my impact gun will work (and that I can find my gun in storage).
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  8. #8

    Re: Project Headgasket (finally)

    well it is about time slow poke, i thought you were going to turn it into yard art
    i sell cars to soon to ever work on them

  9. #9

    Re: Project Headgasket (finally)

    Ass!
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  10. #10

    Re: Project Headgasket (finally)

    If need be and you want to pay shipping I can mail you down an impact. It's a full sized 1/2" type so keep that in mind if space is an issue. I've been through many impacts through the years. Some were junk others needed more air than I could give it. I've settled on an IR 231C which is nice and cheap for the amount of power it has (at 100 psi and 30 gallons). I've also got an IR TI-2135 and it's super powerful and has been worth the money it cost.

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