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Thread: Custom Air Box Idea

  1. #1

    Custom Air Box Idea

    Some days the truck will run great and I've got plenty of power and everything seems well in tune and then some days it seems like it has a bad morning or something and runs fine....but slightly off. Time for more investigation.

    I cleaned and re-oiled my K&N filter. There was a lot of talk about this previously on most of the other forums about FIPK tripping a CEL code. I have never had this although I am planning to take apart the intake manifold and throttle body for cleaning. I decided to give the Amsoil dry fillter a shot since I now live in such a dusty climate. I also have a FIPK intake that I bought when I was quite young and ill informed. This is a slightly more complex problem as I do not have the stock airbox otherwise I would just simply swap back to that and get the drop in with the deckplate. This is what I have come up with as a custom intake airbox (it's gonna be redneck as hell but whatever)


    First some pictures of what it looks like now:




    As everyone else has said the only thing that the FIPK does is take the baffling out of the intake. It's not protected from the hot engine air nor does it do much except make more noise....and take in a little more air. So here is what I am proposing besides the Amsoil to re-attain my stock box.

    Amsoil Filter size:
    Amsoil Number EaAU3050

    K&N Number RU-3570

    Product Style Round Tapered

    Base OD 6"

    Flange ID 3"

    Flange Length 1.75"

    Flange Type Center

    Media Height 5"

    Top OD 5"

    Thankfully I found the thread where someone mentioned the adapter to go from the 3" intake on the FIPK to the 5" filter base. Amsoil never made a 5" base but they did make several 3" bases. I verified this fact and then began to look for a waterproof box that didn't cost 200 bucks (fleabay stock box price)

    Here's what I found in the most unlikely section of Amazon.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846

    Dimensions are as follows:
    Inside: 7"(Diameter) x 12.4"(H)
    Outside: 10"(Diameter) x 13.5"(H)


    It's an MTM Survivor Ammo can. I measured it out and it should just barely fit into the space under the hood. So now I need a place to put a pre-filter and rather than destroy the whole can I figure something like this would do the trick while allowing me to run a flex line to the stock inlet on the fender. I found a variety of silicone connector hoses here at www.sfxperformance.com. Just not sure how I'm going to do a firm connection from the stock hole to the mtm ammo can. Any ideas would be helpful. I could always just cut a slightly smaller hole and jam the hose in there with silicone but if there's an idea that allows for disassembly in a more civilized fashion I am all ears.

    Found some more slight issues thankfully before something more serious happened but my vacuum lines are starting to crack. I pulled one off and it hardly had any resistance at all. Did a little research and I wasn't the only one. Picked up some new vacuum lines for $34 with shipping from www.siliconeintakes.com. For the 3.4L everyone was suggesting the shop pack but that there was almost enough for two engines so I went with the engine dress up kit since the 2.7L has fewer vacuum lines. I will install and review this when it arrives.
    Last edited by Kryptoroxx; 05-18-2014 at 12:45 PM. Reason: edited link to airbox
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
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    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  2. #2
    I don't know how much you are hell bent on keeping that setup, but my $0.02 says ditch it for the stock setup.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  3. #3
    The other pic didn't come through but I found something to make an air box out of instead of buying just the box for 200. Then I would still have to shell out another 63 for the stock tube.

    Total I will be out 40 bucks for my experiment if it doesn't work. If I'm wrong I'll eat the price and go stock again.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  4. #4
    Well after I ordered I found the stock air box for 60 something but since I already have parts in hand this is what I'm up to. If it bombs....oh well. I am kind of having fun with this idea though and it should work fairly well. The operative word is should.

    This is the MTM survival ammo can ($20)(why it's round I have no idea....but it is what I had in mind)


    The Amsoil filter along with the MAF adapter from Spectre Performance ($11)


    Kind of a mock up of what everything will look like stacked up inside. I am going to cut a hole in the heat shield that will fit the whole assembly through it. The MAF will be inside the box. I do have some 3/4" wire glands on hand and it looks like they might just do the trick.


    Inside the hood. It's going to be on the tight side but it's better than a wide open filter.


    What it looks like so far before I had to watch my daughter. It fits in there really snug. Best part about plastic molds is they always mark center for you


    A view from outside. I'm going to get some more done tonight when the wife gets back but I am not sure how much. The little one has teeth moving and hates naps in the first place.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  5. #5
    So maybe I'm a modaholic? I dunno but once I start I can't stop till it's done. Here's the rest of the pics I snapped while I was working everything. Fits like a glove and I know I don't have a load of dust coming through either. Best part is I think I could make a seal system as well as a vent in case I ever get froggy and build a snorkel.









    The wiring still needs to be more solid. I'm ordering a waterproof 5 pin connector so if in the future I have to take it out it's easier than it was this time. I drove it around the block and the engine seems to be getting enough air. No codes and I could feel the air flowing through the lid. I think I can call this a success? lol. The next time I do coolant work I am going to trim that hose so that it isn't interfering with the air intake. Still have to make that huge hole in the heat shield too.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  6. #6
    If it doesnt work out - or you just want to be safe - Here is a stock intake box for $20.
    I am picking up some other parts, I would be glad to pick up and get it out to you.
    Let me know if interested.
    http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201946
    -Chris
    2004 DoubleCab Tacoma PreRunner: 3.4 V6-Auto, DD/Tow Rig
    1997 Lexus LX450: 4.5 I6-Auto, DD
    1984 4Runner: 22R-5 speed, 14 inch bob, 5.29's, lincoln locked rear, lockright front, Armored and Caged by Mossyrocks Fabrication, total disregard for body damage.
    1997 4Runner: GONE
    1996 FZJ80 Land Cruiser: GONE

  7. #7
    I will definitely keep it in mind but I think this is gonna work. Might take a couple more days to come up with a design to hold the filter just so. Everything inside the box is solid and firm. I think that heat shield will end up securing the box to the truck although now I would just consider it a support brace. I don't really think a heat shield does much.
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  8. #8
    Finally got my connectors in so that the wiring wont look like junk and fail. Went with weatherpack connectors so it should work out well. Plan on doing it this weekend at work. Just need my soldering gun and my crimpers.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

  9. #9
    You will need special crimpers for the weather pack connectors. You might get away with a pair of pliers and soldering them on. Remember the big tabs go around the cavity seal.
    2005 Lexus LX470 - Stock for now...

    1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 + a bunch of goodies. Lifted, Locked, Illuminated and Armored. Winner,"Best Offroad Truck" - 2010 Pismo Jamboree. It's been upside down and still drives me to work.

  10. #10
    Good catch. Had to order crimpers. Another tool added to the horde but honestly I have never owned a good set of ratcheting crimpers. This particular set has a set of different teeth for all kinds of connectors. I just ordered the weatherpack set this time as the rest of them are another 30 bucks. I will get them when I am more flush for tools.

    stamped and snail mailed
    98 3rz 4x4 5spd- Monstalined, 99 Talls, 4.30 E-locker, Extra Lights
    In Progress:
    Tundra/Rear Disc Brakes w/parking brake
    Roof Rack/Rear Ladder
    Sliders
    1st Gen Rollbar Shelf

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