is it time for a new motor/trans?

[Kryptoroxx]

What would make the JDM better then a rebuilt motor?

I would trust more a shop that specializes in engines alone.
I just feel with a junkyard motor I would at least want to tear it down partially and see what I am dealing with and at least get new seals all the way around (as well as timing belt, water pump, idlers, ect.)

Jdm is factory built engines with lower miles. If the shop you're dealing with does just import motors or has a lot of experience with the 5vz then I would go ahead with the rebuild but a lot of times jdm motors have less than 100k (we know that's practically brand new for the 5vz) and that's awesome.

The other thing about jdm is that they are imported engines from japan. It's not that they are super or anything but it's a law over there to maintain your vehicle. Every 2 years you have to pass what's called a JCI and it's basically giving a mechanic carte blanche with repairs if your car doesn't pass.

[4x4mike]

As I read it you're not looking for a replacement right away. Right?

If that is the case I'd do your homework on shops, prices, etc. Who knows. Somewhere during that homework you might stumble upon a great donor.

I know you said you don't have a lot of time or experience with swapping but what about 3.4 for 3.4? I know it wouldn't be super easy but how hard could it be? Especially year for year?

For the 3.4 these didnt interest me because I figured factory they were good for 300k and a rebuild was more of a roll of the dice.

Part of me would want to trust a stock, low mile motor rather than a rebuild. Even with warranties on a rebuild, you'd be dealing with the shop or a guy and you'd be out your vehicle while it was fixed. If the motor had less than 300k and was rebuilt what was wrong with it? Would you want it?

I've seen posts in the past with parts kits for things like timing belts that have new "Toyota" or "Aisin" parts. Some are legit and others are knock offs. I forget where it was but there were side by side pictures showing differences and the problems guys were having. If it were me and I had time before it had to be done I'd be looking for a low mile babied motor (aren't all used motors like that?). Even if it was a rolling chassis if the price was right.

[troyboy162]

Revisiting this old plan again. My input bearing to the transmission is beginning to make noise. I called up California mini truck and hit a snag. There system shows only 96-99 4runner/taoma motors being compatible with my 96. I think thats due to a difference in throttle body connector plugs. My MAF will get reused so thats the only difference I can think of. The guy on the phone thought it was the location of the dip sticks, but I've learned 4runners, Tacomas, and tundras all had them in the front. T-100 had them on the side it sounds like.

I really didnt want to do my own motor swap, but it might be the only way to get a 99-04 low mileage motor. Transmission seems fairly easy.

Local rebuilds still sound sketchy. Kar King in Ontario has reviews that sound like they may just be selling steam cleaned used motors.

[Seanz0rz]

Why not buy a whole engine with wiring harness? It just needs to be newer than your truck, which is easy.

[YotaFun]

Here is my .02 on the subject, any 3.4l from 96-04 will work (96-02 for the 4runners I believe 97 to 04 for the Tacoma due to egr on the 96). Your best bet if you get a newer engine is swapping the harness over, reason I say this is 96 & 97 have a different ECU connector style then the 98, then 98 is different on its own iirc but I could be wrong, and then 99-02 the connectors are the same at least through the 4runners, I'm not sure on the tacomas, I cn try to look it up later today if not tomorrow. Just a little more info to try to help you out.

[troyboy162]

Why not buy a whole engine with wiring harness? It just needs to be newer than your truck, which is easy.

I think it would be easier to just transfer my throttle body and intake to the donor motor. I dont know of any benefit to move to a newer MAF or TPS. Injectors should be the same plug and I wouldn't think the knock sensor would change, but I don't know.

Here is my .02 on the subject, any 3.4l from 96-04 will work (96-02 for the 4runners I believe 97 to 04 for the Tacoma due to egr on the 96). Your best bet if you get a newer engine is swapping the harness over, reason I say this is 96 & 97 have a different ECU connector style then the 98, then 98 is different on its own iirc but I could be wrong, and then 99-02 the connectors are the same at least through the 4runners, I'm not sure on the tacomas, I cn try to look it up later today if not tomorrow. Just a little more info to try to help you out.

maybe I just dont understand the engine harness...After I remove my intake/throttle body I expect just to disconnect the injectors, knock sensor and the motor will be free to come out. Are you saying the normal route is a engine with a harness attached is put in, and just one connector is ran to the ECU to complete the install?

I've always assumed the harness runs all over the front bay to random little things

[troyboy162]

bah update...Called the guy back. His mech thought my 96 dipstick was driver side midengine. I'm about 99% positive its on the front of the engine driver side. If that is the case then he said there that his newer motors will work and everything else is fine. I hope they are taking in consideration these differences in plugs we are talking about.

[YotaFun]

maybe I just dont understand the engine harness...After I remove my intake/throttle body I expect just to disconnect the injectors, knock sensor and the motor will be free to come out. Are you saying the normal route is a engine with a harness attached is put in, and just one connector is ran to the ECU to complete the install?

I've always assumed the harness runs all over the front bay to random little things

Let me clarify my statement because typing it from my cell phone is not the best idea.

Yes you can disconnect all connectors off the engine, place them out of the way, pull the engine, install the new one, and reconnect your engine connectors. Its just a little more time consuming and your run the risk of some of your connectors breaking due to the mileage and heat.

It is EASIER to swap a motor with the same wiring harness for your truck but finding what you need is a little harder, and since yours is a 96 those motors (96 & 97) would have higher mileage. The benefit of doing engine with harness is all you do is unplug the harness from the ECU feed it through the fire wall and it goes with the engine as it comes out. I guess its the flat rate state of mind in me that feels this way is better.

The dip stick on your truck is in the front driver side right by the oil cap area. my 97 is like that, and my 99 is like that as well.

Tell me if this makes a little more sense from what I had said eariler.

[troyboy162]

oh ok that makes sense. I've never really looked at one. I wonder how the guys plan on doing it down there. For internet search purposes the labor will be ~$1000 for the motor and transmission install. I think they quoted 750 a couple years ago for just a engine install. I'm going to have them do a radiator and timing belt at the same time.
I hope it all works out lol. If it does I'm golden for another 100k. If not, I'm hopefully better off then I am now.

[troyboy162]

Hit a snag again lol
The guy from cali mini trucks called me and said he had looked at his motors and tested the best candidate, but it wasnt running quite right. He told me he would be looking for a motor at auctions and call me if he found anything.
Part of me is really bummed, but I'd rather get this call then start hearing valve tick on the way home from my expensive investment.