Corax's 1UZ swap

[corax]

Mainly been tidying up a few odds and ends - fuel delivery, wiring, etc. It's the small details which usually take the longest but add a lot in reliability and easier servicing.
Moved the fuel supply line back a few inches to space it further from the header and added some heat shielding (from a used PS line at work)


Finished my Bussmann fuse/relay box


and made a mounting bracket to mount it back out of the way (also decided I'm gonna clean the stock 4runner harness of some unnecessary wiring, the original 22RE AFM wires, for example).
stock fuse box, fuel pressure regulator, stock starter relay (wired to B+ to avoid no-start issues), Bussmann fuse relay box w/ fuel pump resistor

[corax]

Frankenstein's heart is beating! I had some issues with the immobilizer - turns out the FLAT CARD KEYS WILL NOT WORK with the immobilizer. Maybe it's my JDM ECU, but I don't think so. I ended up programming a spare key from an is300 to the truck and it fired off on the first crank.
video link --> https://youtu.be/gew_Ni5-WHc

now I'm working to tidy things up a bit, reinstall the radiator along with the rest of the cooling system, run a few ancillary wire circuits, etc. I still don't know where I want to mount the immobilizer antenna - the immobilizer chip (spare key) needs to be within 1 inch of the antenna in order to unlock the immobilizer and start the engine. I had more options if the key cards had worked

[YotaFun]

Frankenstein's heart is beating! I had some issues with the immobilizer - turns out the FLAT CARD KEYS WILL NOT WORK with the immobilizer. Maybe it's my JDM ECU, but I don't think so. I ended up programming a spare key from an is300 to the truck and it fired off on the first crank.
video link --> https://youtu.be/gew_Ni5-WHc

now I'm working to tidy things up a bit, reinstall the radiator along with the rest of the cooling system, run a few ancillary wire circuits, etc. I still don't know where I want to mount the immobilizer antenna - the immobilizer chip (spare key) needs to be within 1 inch of the antenna in order to unlock the immobilizer and start the engine. I had more options if the key cards had worked

That's awesome! Nice to hear that 4.0L come to life in a 4Runner!

When it comes to the key immobilizer, you don't necessarily need the entire key right? You just need the chip itself.
A couple of of options to consider. Dig out the chip from the key you have its programmed and ready to go, if its the remote head IS key you should be able to see where the chip sits in the remote head.
Another option is to source a aftermarket key where the chip gets inserted into the key and then programmed, program the chip then take the chip out and put it with the immobilizer ring where ever you would like.

[corax]

I've still been plugging away at this. I bought and returned 2 radiators because, apparently, it's really difficult to use a measuring tape to find dimensions. So while I lost 3 weeks to a parts hold-up, I was able to work on finishing my winch mount and some other projects.

Latest victory: getting the stock 4runner tach to work. The non-VVTi 1UZ uses a signal off one of the ignitors to trigger the tach, and these work fine. The VVTi 1UZ has a coil on plug ignition and puts a signal out from the ECU for the tach. The problem is that a ignitor based signal uses a much higher voltage than what the ECU puts out, so the tach will read ZERO with the engine running. There are several solutions. You can buy a tach signal booster - I think MSD has one, seen a few others, but didn't want to spend the money for something I could figure out myself.

This is another option and should cost less than $10. It takes the low voltage ECU signal and uses that to trigger a transistor. The transistor energizes the relay coil and when it turns off, the relay coil induces a voltage spike (just like an ignition coil) which the tach can read.
thread with more info: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/thr...-Tacho-Booster


I did an even simpler mod. Take a 10k ohm resistor (1/4 Watt should be fine) and solder it onto the tach circuit board, just like the 3.4L swap tach mod. I did this and it works fine, though I still have to adjust it using the stock trim pot so it reads accurately. (not my picture, but this is where the resistor goes)


Now my tach works. I also got the "OBD" port working. Since I'm using a JDM ECU, which uses J-OBD, a normal OBDII app won't work. This is what I used with the Torque app to get it to work - now I can read/clear codes and pull all the engine sensor data from the ECU

http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/92...BD2-on-jdm-ecu!

it started with some internet research on communicating with jdm ecu's and the protocols they use. Apparently, even though they have the same plug, they are not obd compliant. As the research contined, I found a guy who had found a way to get his import 2jz with vvti to work and I thought there is no reason why this wouldn't work also work for us.

So, I should preface this by saying that this will not make your car readable by emissions testers where it would otherwise fail, but gives you, the end user, the control. For $28 you can have this fully operational

Step 1: go out and buy an OBD2 Bluetooth adapter. In this case, the one I purchased was this one from Amazon the Bafx PIC18F2480 - http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-...obd2+bluetooth

Step 2: Purchase the 5$ app "Torque Pro" from the google play market for Android. (For you apple guys, the App Store does not have this exact app on there so I am unsure if any of the steps after this are valid) Any android powered tablet or phone should work here.

Step 3: Inside of the app you can create car profiles for different vehicles (This app is incredible and is by far the most useful thing I've ever bought as an app because this app and the adapter can be used on ANY obd2 car) In the vehicle profile at the bottom of the profile page is a line that says Very Advanced ELM327. There is a line in that section to add text. The following text should be added to that line:

ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8213F0 \n ATSP4 \n 0100

Once that is complete, hit SAVE and go back into the app. The app is now configured to see the JDM ecu's (that code changed the searching frequencies and some other protocol stuff in the app to be able to read the JDM ecu's)

With the app configured and your OBD 2 adapter plugged into the port on your car, you can now read all of you engine data with the the Torque app. Insert vehicle parameters to get HP and TQ estimations, Fuel economy, timing advancement, speed, the list goes on (really really nice app)

There is also a check engine light portion of this app where you can scan the ECU for codes so it becomes a scan tool as well.

[corax]

As a quick follow-up to my previous post, I calibrated the tach to work with the new engine using the trim pot on the tach circuit board in the picture below. Removing the speedometer allowed me to to turn the adjustment while it while plugged in, I matched the tach reading to the OBD adapter reading and verified it matched at idle as well as at 3k rpm.


It took awhile to find a radiator which would fit. I've bought and returned 3 nice aluminum radiators in the last month before settling on running the same size I used previously - I was hoping to find something a bit taller, but using a tape measure must be difficult when writing online product descriptions. I opted for a Griffin universal Chevy style 24" wide x 16" tall radiator w/ 2 cores of 1.25" tubes (my radiator opening was cut a bit wider several years ago). My only complaint is that the tubes are epoxied into the end tanks instead of furnace brazed. Other than that, it appears to be a quality product.
A straight lower radiator hose outlet would have worked much better, but there were none in stock and Griffin would have had to make one before I could get it. Not much clearance to be had here, especially considering that the hose is 1.75" wide and needs to make a hard 90 degree straight up. I found a hose at the local parts store which made a hard turn and cut it to work. The 90 degree piece on that outlet is joined to the smaller diameter hose (1.5") going to the thermostat outlet by a sensor adapter with the fan switch in it.


Some very minor trimming on this Mercedes electric fan and shroud and it fit the radiator perfectly, covering the entire core side to side and top to bottom (increasing the area that air is pulled through increases fan cooling). I'm not sure what this came out of, it's been on my garage shelf for years. The important part is that it measured only 2" from the radiator to the back of the fan motor, so a very slim package with factory OEM cooling abilities. Since universal radiators generally don't have a way to mount fans, and I don't have a TIG welder, I got to use my new sheet metal brake to fab up some simple brackets to hold the fan in place.
bottom brackets to support the weight and close the air gap between the shroud and the radiator core


top mounts mainly hold the fan tight to the radiator


there's not much clearance to spare, but I'm hoping there's enough that nothing touches when things start to move under load

[Seanz0rz]

Awesome progress!

Will you be running water sprayers on the radiator like before?

[corax]

Awesome progress!

Will you be running water sprayers on the radiator like before?

Thanks! and 😂
I haven't used a radiator sprayer in years. Hoping that I don't have to either, but I won't know until I start towing a bit.
So far, 10 miles driven today. Trans is shifting buttery smooth, a bit touchy pulling out (maybe because of the 19lb flywheel?) trying not to launch too hard while I break in the clutch (but, man, does it take off when I do), alternator may have died . . . and it tries to shift into 4WD when I take off quick, which is weird because I don't think the shifter is anywhere sheet metal

[YotaFun]

Awesome progress, and thank you for sharing the info about connecting to the JDM ECU.
I have been perusing more and more Diesel 4Runners on the import sites and it never occurred to me that I wouldn't be able to read anything through the OBDII port.

[4x4mike]

So far, 10 miles driven today.

Great job and congratulations on the progress. Can't wait to see some video.

[Seanz0rz]

I haven't used a radiator sprayer in years.

I was thinking of adding one to my 100. I had it get hot enough it shut down the AC last summer while stuck in traffic, although there are other cooling system issues that should be addressed.