e-locker wiring redux and repairing breather

[4x4mike]

I used factory ecu, switch and I tapped the dash. My RR DIFF light never blinked like factory but it could have been because I didn't connect every wire the ECU had coming out of it. I would push the button, no light, but when I heard the e locker engage the light would illuminate simultaneously. I don't remember if it would engage if the key was in the accessory mode but I guess it depends on where you're getting your power.

Did you try the screwdriver method to get the locker turned over?

[Bob98SR5]

Mike,

Thanks for the feedback. I'll have to check the FSM for the troubleshooting procedure, but I believe that light should momentarily blink on like the ABS light does when you first fire up the engine.

Screwdriver method: not yet, but probably won't do it as I've moved on from the locker work. Valve cover is off now so doing that next. I'll revisit the locker work after I get the power steering lines on.

To think, I thought the locker was going to be the easiest part!

[YotaFun]

Bob,

Sorry I have been MIA from the Internets, I just went out and jumped in my 00' Limited that is factory equipped.
The RR DIFF LOCK light does illuminate for a few seconds to indicate the module has done a self test.

When pressing the button to engage, when it is in the process if the locker has not lock it will flash on the dash till it does lock.

I did not check to see if I can get engagement to work with key on engine off, I will try to get in there tomorrow and do such for you.

What is your source of power for the module?

[Bob98SR5]

Avi,

Thanks again for the reply and the response on the RR DIFF light illuminating a few seconds. I'm still waiting for that single tiny terminal pin (the most expensive terminal per dollar I've ever paid!) from Conicelli Toyota along w/ the cam plugs. Once I wire that terminal up, I'll have an idea if I wired things correctly or not. Might have to follow those tedious procedures to test the ECU. I hope not!

Power source: I tapped the lower driver's side panel fuse box according to this diagram:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attach..._diagram-2.pdf

It appears that the ECU is getting its power from the 10A Fuse tap terminal (top right of diagram) that runs along the black/yellow wire, which then runs down to the male harness terminal pin #5.

[Bob98SR5]

Well this is the only thing that didn't go according to plan. When I fired up the 4Runner today after doing the p/s line work and the engine work, I got a check engine light. So I only drove a few blocks before getting the heebs and headed back to the garage. I completed the burping of the p/s lines and system and went on another drive. But before I did that, I unhooked the power fuse tap lines that was powering the locker ECU. No more check engine light. Also my gauge cluster lights are half lit on either ends. WTF. I think either I must've not plugged in the harnesses perfectly or the bulbs aren't screwed in tight. Time to fix it now.

EDIT: I think I mucked up the brown harness wires or something like that. The left side works now, but I don't know why. I replugged it back the left side white harness (left to right, it's white, blue, and brown) and now the white works. I'm going to check the bulbs if I have time tonight to see maybe it's a bulb issue. But my feeling is either I handled the brown harness too much, screwed up those conductor lines somehow, or maybe there's a weird ground that I accidentally mucked up.

Anyone had this same problem?

[YotaFun]

Double check your ground there.
I have yanked on the harness pretty good and haven't had ill results.
I tried to wire the Diff light on my brown truck through the cluster but ended up just putting a separate light on the dash.

I am trying to remember the write up I saw where I think an extra ground had to be added but I am not sure.

[Seanz0rz]

I'll pull my IP tomorrow and show where I tapped for the light.