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Thread: Just got a 98 3.4 5spd SR5 4runner - what to look for, repair-wise?

  1. #1

    Just got a 98 3.4 5spd SR5 4runner - what to look for, repair-wise?

    removed
    Last edited by vm7118; 08-11-2015 at 09:59 AM.

  2. #2

    Re: Just got a 98 3.4 5spd SR5 4runner - what to look for, repair-wise?

    If it hasn't had the timing belt replaced yet, you might consider doing that. It's usually done at 100K IIRC. If you have that done, replace the water pump and theres some other stuff that's good to replace at the same time for preventative maintenance purposes.

    What color did you get? Mine was the Anthracite Metallic, I LOVED that thing!

  3. #3

    Re: Just got a 98 3.4 5spd SR5 4runner - what to look for, repair-wise?

    Welcome To The World of The 4Runner.

    I too am a 20 year old college student in PA with a 97 Runner, with just under what you have in miles.

    Yeah, check to see if the timing belt has been done.
    On the 96-98 4Runners it was recommended by Toyota to get done every 60K miles.
    I am at 118K myself and am making ann appointment at my local dealer to get that and the water pump replaced.

    Axle seals are your next issue, don't have the dealer look at it, look at it yourself.
    This is very simple, just look underneath the truck at the rear axle on the back of the brak drums where the axel meets the plate there, if you see any oil, then you may have a bad axle seal.
    What this causes is for the rear brakes to be no longer functional and puts more pressure on the front brakes for stopping, making them wear faster and inevitablly making you have to have front brake work done more and more.

    That clunk you speak of, I think Bob_98SR5 on here is having a similar issue and posted about it, look him up on here he is one of the staff, I think that you might have the same issue as he has.

    Oil change, this is up for debate but I switched to synthetic the min I got the truck in my hands, it just a suggestion but you might want to do that.
    Also other fluids, IIRC the differential fluids (front and rear) should be changed every 15K, I could be wrong on this, but since I am a avid off-roader with my truck I change it every 15K, I also change my tranny fluid every 30K but you have a manual, I have an auto(and I must say I am slightly jealous that you have a manual).

    Other things to be done, throw some seafoam into the gas tank and run that through, clean off some of that carbon build up, and later, run it through the throttle body (there is a write-up in the wiki on that) also clean out the throttle body with Throttle body cleaner (DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER!!!).
    These two things do help alot on a high mileage engine, I did them and notice and instant boost in power.

    Other than that welcome!
    And I am interested in what color you have as well.
    I do have the Anthracite Metallic and am even more please with it.

  4. #4

    Re: Just got a 98 3.4 5spd SR5 4runner - what to look for, repair-wise?

    VM:

    Here's a good search engine from toyota taht will outline what you need to change at different mileage intervals:

    http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/ws/

    also, the clunk is something i'm looking into. its here in this subsection so keep an eye out on it

    bob

  5. #5

    Re: Just got a 98 3.4 5spd SR5 4runner - what to look for, repair-wise?

    removed
    Last edited by vm7118; 08-11-2015 at 09:59 AM.

  6. #6

    Re: Just got a 98 3.4 5spd SR5 4runner - what to look for, repair-wise?

    Quote Originally Posted by vm7118
    Hey guys,

    thanks for the great info! i saw bob's thread about the clunking earlier tonight and was glad (or at least relieved) that someone else has a similar issue. i will definitely check that thread nightly

    yotafun your runner looks nice, if it's that one in your avatar. that is quite the sexy color. i got mine in red, and i love it too. this car really is amazing even just to look at. im glad i found the manual, but i would be 99% as happy with the auto, so dont be jealous. whatever thrill i get out of it is cancelled out by the bumper to bumper traffic i have to navigate in on the NJ turnpike sometimes.

    so back to business... i felt the same way about switching to synthetic, i believe in it, i just wanted to make sure there wasn't some secret issue i should know about. but i'm glad there isn't.

    here is what i will be doing (let me know if i am missing something):

    - get some synthetic oil
    - treat with seafoam
    - clean throttle body (seafoam and throttle body cleaner.. not carb :P)
    - keep an eye on dif/tranny fluids
    - check axle seals
    - check timing belt/water pump
    - follow bob's clunk thread

    BTW bob, i love 4runners.org. so much great info in easy to access/read format. you really should move all those articles to the wiki here, and make it even easier

    thanks again, and thanks for the warm welcome.

    This is from the link that Bob Posted:
    -Replace engine oil and oil filter (check, your switching to synthetic)
    -Replace engine air filter (just get a stock one, but down the road, consider trueflow, love mine)
    Replace engine coolant (I will be having Toyota do this when I go to get the timing belt and water pump change, they use there Toyota Red Blend, which I have come to read around here is highly recommended.)
    Replace spark plugs (Go to the Stealer and give them your Vin and they will give you the right ones, there the best to go with.)
    Lubricate propeller shaft and re-torque bolts (4WD) (I will read up on this, since I do a lot of towing and off-road driving this might be a good thing to do)
    Rotate tires (Given, always want to rotate your tires, they save tires life)
    Inspect the following:
    Ball joints and dust covers
    Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs
    Charcoal canister 2
    Drive belts (I would replace them if they look pretty warn, I will be replacing mine when the A/C compressor in my truck is fixed right!)
    Drive shaft boots (re-torque flange bolts) (4WD) (probably just a give to do)
    Exhaust pipes and mountings (Since it was in the rust belt, just look over it, but I am sure the entire system has probably fused itself together like mine has had)
    Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses
    Fuel tank cap gasket
    Steering gear box for leakage
    Steering linkages
    Transmission, transfer and differential oil (change to synthetic, extra insurance)
    Valves (audible inspection), adjust if necessary

    And then of course the list oyu have and your set.

    Little off Topic, where do you go to college?
    (your right around me if your saying NJ Turnpike and such lol)

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