Did a couple more lighting upgrades

[paddlenbike]

I don't know why I waited so long to install the Hella Micro DE fog lights, these things are great! I bought what I thought was an aftermarket kit, but it came in a Toyota Genuine Parts box. All I did was install the brackets and lights, plugged in the included relay and tapped two wires under the steering column for the switch and they were done. SR5's are prewired for fogs from the factory.






I also re-did the cargo light with LEDs. These put out a little over 6X the light as stock.

Before:


After, without the lens cover:


Note the difference in brightness between this light and the stock passenger area dome light.




The stock rear dome light was useless for finding anything at night. In fact, I tried to photograph the stock light output and it was so dim you couldn't hardly see anything in the photo. I used twelve LEDs in the rear--probably should have used ten...it's a bit overkill. I will probably use six in the front one when I get around to it.

It was 103 degrees here...I think I drank 2 gallons of water while working on the truck!

[YotaFun]

Schweet!
How about doing a mini writeup for the few of us who do not know about the world of LED

The light in the back rules!

[ttora4runner]

Thanks, for posting. Looks like another mod to add to my list.


I have that same blanket and cargo mat in my 4runner.

[humanoid]

Nice job there, bro! X2 on the DIY write-up!

[Bob98SR5]

yes, please ken, impart your LED knowledge!

[paddlenbike]

Eh, these high-power LEDs are a lot more complicated than regular 5mm LEDs. These LEDs pull 3.3V each, so technically you could run three in series, using up 9.9V, with a resistor to dissipate the excess voltage. Problem is, LEDs need to run near their peak amperage to be efficient and put out plenty of light. You'll find only 11.8V at the rear dome light with the vehicle off and 14.6V with it running. Resistor your circuit for 14.6V and it won't put out much light with the vehicle off at 11.8V. Personally, I need the cargo dome to be brightest when the car is off--that is usually when I'm digging around in the back to find stuff.

So, buy LM7808 8V regulators at RadioShack. These will provide consistent voltage to the LEDs regardless of whether it's running or not. You can run two LEDs in series and up to three arrays (six total) behind each regulator. I used twelve LEDs total, so I have two regulators. Hook the positive from the dome light to the regulators, then from the output pin of the regulators to the anode of the first LED. Connect the cathode of the first LED to the anode of the second LED, then from the cathode of the second LED to a resistor, then to ground.

Here is what the back of the unit looks like:



The black things are heatsinks to dissipate the heat from the regulators. The green things are 0.22uF capacitors to absorb vehicle voltage spikes and protect the circuits.

I know there will be plenty of questions, so ask away...

[Robinhood4x4]

I think this is going to call for a full on write up with part numbers and diagrams Ken!

[reggie 00]

Or an order form and pricing/labor information.


Don't know about anyone else but i havent soldered anything to a breadboard for at least 11yrs.

[Seanz0rz]

Or an order form and pricing/labor information.


Don't know about anyone else but i havent soldered anything to a breadboard for at least 11yrs.

lol, if ken produces some schematics, id be willing to build them, say a dozen at a time.

[mastacox]

Man that LED array is shweet... I need to do something like that!

Wiring diagram would be very cool, I'd love to try and reproduce this mod F&R on my truck. Any idea of what the current pull is for the LED array versus a standard bulb?