4Runner Questions!

[MaK92-4Rnr]

Ok. I have a 1992 4RNR, comptetely stock with 113,800 miles. I'm pretty new to this coming from driving a integra. So... anyways Im planning on lifting my truck 3". should I do a body or suspension lift? I also want to fit 33x12.50s underneath. is 3" enough without rubbing? i dont wanna go higher than 4" as far as a lift Nor do i wanna beat the crap outta my fenders and wheel wells. Help me out here thanks.

[4x4mike]

I would do a susupension lift. A body lift is kind of like a band aid and 3" is a little high. Folks do 1" BL's to clear the drivetrain when doing swaps but there are better options out there. You've got a '92 so I'm a little less familiar with the options for your 4runner. If you're new search around and see what people are running and their experiences.

What type of wheeling are you doing? How often? These might determine how much rubbing you might have.

[YotaFun]

Like 4x4 mike said, I would do the Suspension lift.
A friend of mine has a 95 and i have helped him with his lift.
What kind of wheeling do you do?

My suggestion is to go with LC coils from the rear of the Land Cruisers (years escape my memory right now) and Ball Joint spacers up front with your torsion bars cranked just a little.
I mean you can skip the BJ spacers all together and then just crank your bars but then you would have no flex like my friend here:


Not the best pic but you can see how is rear is flexing a lot, of course it is well know that flex is no existent already for IFS, but every inch helps :-)

Oh by the by those are 33" Maxxis Big Horns on his rims :-)

[Robinhood4x4]

Like the others said, crank the front T-bars or get Ball Joint spacers to raise it 1-1.5". For the back, I like to recommend Downey HD coils to raise it an equal amount. I think the Cruiser coils raise the rear too much and don't like the stink bug look.

Then go with 1" body lift from 4Crawler.

I don't like to recommend cranking or doing BJ lifts more than 1" because it puts more stress on the CV axles and boots. Oh yeah, and if you do any lifting of the front you'll want to convert to manual hubs if you don't have them already. They'll save your boots.

[MaK92-4Rnr]

Thanks for the Replies.

Ok, Im just gonna give a whole break down of what my truck has been through.

I purchased it at 107k miles, completely original and never been taken off road.The only thing wrong with it was oxidation on the driver side fender, door and on the roof.

It now has 113k and since then the Original Clutch and Flywheel have been replaced, due to the Flywheel slipping a little bit.

Things that need to be replaced, CV joints, shocks, and Tires... They are all as bad as it gets and could use replacing asap. Before i replace them though i would like to get a 3" lift done to fit 33x12.50s. I'll be replacing everything that needs to be replaced when i lift my truck. I know its gonna be a hefty load of cash outta my pocket. But i can handle it.

The plans i have for my truck and what i have done as far as wheeling are as is... I dont plan on doing rubicon but the other trails here in California im totally up for. This truck is my DD so i gotta take care of it. I plan to make tasteful modifications such as: intake, full exhaust, lift, tires. Later modifications are Painting it white, and swapping in a 3.4 with a TRD supercharger.

To answer your guy's questions, Yes It has automatic locking hubs.
Any info on how to swap out to manual hubs and such would be great. Price especially.

Im very familiar with modifications, since i come from a rice rocket. ( 1995 Integra GS-R )

Just be open with me on what brand to use and i'll know what your talking about. I'd also like to know what sounds best as far as exhaust on a 3.0 if you guys dont mind?

Feel Free to guide me in the right direction with anything i have listed here. All the help is appreciated.

Thank you.

[Robinhood4x4]

yeah, but you don't need 3" to fit 33's. Pretty much what everybody here has said would get 33's under your truck. Keeping the center of gravity low is a good thing, although there is something to be said about ground clearance. Ball joint spacers and the 1" body lift can be bought at http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml. By the way, bookmark Roger's website, it is the toyota bible.

You don't really have "auto hubs", you have ADD flanges which I think are actually pretty good. However, whenever you raise the suspension you should put on manual hubs like you said. Toyota, Aisin, hubs are a direct swap. Just bolt on and go. Warn hubs are also possible, but there's a little adapting to do and they're not as strong as toyotas. Aisin hubs can be found on the forums once in a while for about $50-$75. I believe there is a tech writeup here somewhere.

It's actually fairly cheap to get 33s, nothing major needs to be done to your truck. Instead of spending your money on aftermarket lift kits, I'd recommend some armor, like rock sliders.

[MaK92-4Rnr]

Wouldn't just getting a 3" inch lift be less hassle though? I wouldn't really have to worry about lifting it anymore.
and i also heard that to fit 12.50s on you need a 3" lift.

I was also told that 4runners can fit 33x10.50s underneath with out banging up the fenders or getting a lift... i dont know if thats true.

Im not worried about tires or rims. I'm good friends with a manager at an America's Tire company which is close by.

CV joints run for about 200-300 a pop last time i checked.

The suspension is what im really worried about.

As far as rock sliders, I have been to my local 4x4 stores and i cannot find them what so ever. any place you have in mind?

and another question that has really been confusing. I noticed on newish 4runners they have coils in the front. I dont. I just have the shock. If anyone could explain that to me. please do.

[slosurfer]

Wouldn't just getting a 3" inch lift be less hassle though? I wouldn't really have to worry about lifting it anymore.
and i also heard that to fit 12.50s on you need a 3" lift.

One of the important things to know about fitting 12.50's is the backspacing of your rims. Stock backspacing will not cut it, you need 3.75" of backspacing on 15x8 rims. I'm running 1.5"bj spacers and so far have only trimmed my valance and a little of the plastic inner wheelwell (tends to happen mostly when I'm bombing around the dunes ). I get no rubbing on the street but get minimal rubbing at full stuff while turning. Eventually I'll probably get a 1" body lift to alleviate that but it really hasn't been a problem, so I haven't even taken a hammer to the inner fender yet.

I was also told that 4runners can fit 33x10.50s underneath with out banging up the fenders or getting a lift... i dont know if thats true.

This is true.

Im not worried about tires or rims. I'm good friends with a manager at an America's Tire company which is close by.

CV joints run for about 200-300 a pop last time i checked.

You can get lifetime warranty ones at Autozone for about $80. You rip a boot down the road, just pull the axle and swap it out for a new one. The good thing about manual hubs is that you can go much longer even once you have a torn boot. My passenger side boot has been torn for a year, I just smear a little grease in there every now and then. You can also pick up a spare axle for cheap from someone who is doing a solid axle swap, mine is strapped down in the back.

The suspension is what im really worried about.

As far as rock sliders, I have been to my local 4x4 stores and i cannot find them what so ever. any place you have in mind?

Check out the forum sponsors: Wabfab, 4xInnovations, also Stubbs Sliders are very good.



and another question that has really been confusing. I noticed on newish 4runners they have coils in the front. I dont. I just have the shock. If anyone could explain that to me. please do.

The newer ones '96+ have coilover suspensions while '86-95 have torsion bars which run along the top of the frame which the upper a-arm connects to.

[Robinhood4x4]

When people say they bang up the fenders, it's very minimal and nobody will notice unless you point it out. All you need to do is clearance the pinch weld at the bottom-rear of the wheel well. Some people grind it, some people pound it.

Here's a couple articles about torsion bars and how to crank them. Note that nobody recommends going with stiffer t-bars anymore, unless you have a heavy front bumper and winch.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/torsion_bars/
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=398514

I believe 33x10.5 will fit with no lift at all, but you might need a little pinch weld massaging. I think when I had IFS and 33x10.5 I had a slight tbar crank and I pounded the pinch weld a little. But I don't know if it would have fit without any of that.

If the CV joints are still good then you can rebuild them with the toyota boot kit which runs about $30-$40 per axle. Or Napa, Kragen, etc sell rebuilt ones with a lifetime warranty for about $100, I think. Most people just get the rebuilt ones because it's not as messy.

Don't go to places like 4wheel parts for real off road stuff. You can get blingy things from them like fender flares, junk tube bumpers and steps, but they mostly cater to the mall crawler types. For things like rocksliders you're going to have to go to mom and pop places like Marlin, Allpro and 4crawler. 4crawler makes the only bolt on version while the others need to be welded on.

To get 3" of lift, you'll have to do 1"-1.5" of tbar crank/BJ spacers and the remainder in body lift. Going over 3" of body lift is dangerous and anything more than 1" is usually frowned upon.

[MaK92-4Rnr]

Thanks for this information guys, its very helpful

The rims I'm going to be getting have 3.75" of back spacing. I'm going to be getting Pro Comp Series 8069 rims. So I think I'm good as far as tires and rims.

Basically im gonna be going for the whole White/black look. Black accessories ( side mirrors, bumpers, rims, tinted tail lights/ head lights ) absolutely no chrome. Gonna be painting it all pretty soon. and of course, white body.

I've only had my truck since March and haven't ran into any problems with the CV joints yet. I just looked underneath when i was buying the truck and saw they were torn a little bit.

and Thanks for the websites. These are exactly what I have been looking for. I was infact looking at 4 wheel parts. lol I was only planning on buying a K&N intake and fender flares from them anyway.

I think im gonna go with a 3" suspension lift all together and see how it works. Im gonna try and stay away from Body lifting for now. If i need to I'm not gonna go more than 1"

I'll try that with the CV boots. the whole axle probably could use a little updating though, it is in fact the original CV joints.

Ok, Terms of Exhaust... what sounds the best? I heard Borla, and Flowmaster 50 series sounds the best... but what do you guys prefer?